First sorry for my english, but you will understand me i guess
hi to everybody, i have stilo jtd 115 2004. when i buy this car before 4-5 years the car was rocked with also good consumption... Now i have some problems with the car. The problems started about 1 year ago. I noticed some “leaking sound “ when i was reving, the car was losing power(no more rocked), and good amount of black smoke when i push hard. Consumtion started to be vary bad. Winter times goes to 12l /100. and summer 8-9l /100. one time when i open the hood i noticed that the engine cover is a bit oily... then i found that the intercooler-engine pipe was broken and leaking... I fix that plastic pipe now and there is no holes and no leakings. also no more oil leaking from pipe. Take it to ride and now its better. That “leaking sound” has gone and car now have more power then before... (but not like a good times) also i check the consumption, i think its a bit better but its too early to know.

about the power now... the car now have some power back, but i still miss some horses from that JTD 115 beast!! its not the same power now and before 2 years.. i was running with broken intercooler pipe and all that bad symptoms about maybe 1-1,5 years... is there possibility that my car now is clogged and maybe need to “blow out” to reveal some more HP ?

problem 2: on a highway, when i push hard on the pedal, on 2500 RPM there is always instant power loss(turbo goes off) and engine failure message on dashboard. after that the car is running without turbo and its slow like hell. Then i need to take out from gear and put it back again and turbo goes on again till 2500rpm... on 2500rpm goes off again with that engine failure msg. thats so anoying...

and why is this stroke into this black rubber on the photo ? what is it?

You need to check a few things, since the car has been running so long with a leaky intercooler hose that anything could have gone wrong with it in the meantime and you won't have been able to notice.

First of all check your oil level. If it's on "MAX" instead of 80% full, then guaranteed you will have oil in the inlet manifold. You can clean it out by removing the plastic pipe that leads from the airbox. I would remove that pipe first, since you will have a lot of "inlet" jobs to do (below) and it will be in the way.

Anyway, if you have oil in the inlet manifold, the MAP sensor will be polluted with it. Remove the MAP sensor on the back of the inlet manifold. It's on the back of the manifold in the centre and looks like a flat plastic blade with a pimple on the bottom that presses into the manifold (M6/10mm bolt holds it in place).

If the sensor looks too oily or sooted up, get a new one - they're not too expensive.

Next you need to trace the blue pipe from the turbo boost solenoid next to the turbo. The pipe runs along the bottom of the radiator to below the left hand headlamp. There, it connects to the turbo boost valve.

The blue pipe has to have no splits in it. If your pipe is split, replace it.

If the valve looks wet/very dirty or has dirty/corroded connectors, then you need to clean it up and make sure it works okay.

You will need to remove the inner wing guards and/or the airbox to get access to the boost valve.. so if you can afford it, I would just buy a new one to replace the old one, regardless of its apparent condition.

Some people relocate their boost valve so they're away from the road spray... but it should be dry and in clean condition .. so it depends how many undertrays and plastic shields your car still has, I guess.

Next check out the MAF sensor, between the airbox (which is off the car now... ) and the turbo. You can try disconnecting yours first, to see if it makes any difference but it may run exactly the same with the MAF disconnected as it does with it connected. Clean it with an electronic contact spray. Don't poke the little electrode. If it looks damaged, change the MAF sensor.

Only replace the MAF with a *Bosch* replacement. Don't try a cheap MAF, in a plain box from China etc. ; you'll discover it won't work much better than your old one and you'll have to buy a Bosch one in the end anyway.

The most likely culprit is the EGR valve. That's at the back of the engine, bolted to the inlet manifold. There's a corrugated pipe with cloth over it, from the exhaust extension tube (that connects to the manifold..) and there's a similar pipe at the top. The EGR itself looks like a little "windscreen wiper" motor about 10cm long and with black cooling fins.

You need to take it off, anyhow and have a look inside. There's a piston which moves up and down that makes the EGR valve a valve ,rather than just a tube of metal. I guess your piston is stuck or tight. It may be blocked with carbon and soot, so just clean it out with a small stick or screwdriver until you can see the piston and then work the piston up and down by hand .. use some lubtication spray etc. so that it's clean and moves freely.

EGR is a bit expensive, so it's best not to replace it unless you're sure that yours is seixed, stuck or beyond help. You have to dismantle a lot of parts to get to the pipes (to disconnect the EGR) so if yours is knackered then my advice is to change it rather than putting it back and hoping it will work. If you have to remove it every two weeks to clean it/loosen it again then it's not worth it.

Once you cleaned your EGR and it's moving well, it's a pity to get it covered in soot again.. so before you start this job, buy an EGR blanking plate and re-assemble the EGR with a plate in position, so that you save yourself aggro' in the future. Don't disconnect the EGR... it has to still be there working... but if you put a plate at each corrugated pipe (one at the top, one at the bottom) then the EGR will remain clean and carry on working without any more problems.


Ralf S.

There should be one small rubber hose coming into that black valve next to your hand. I can't see much, but it looks like somebody put a screw in it for some reason.

Also you need to remove the EGR if you want to take a look at MAP sensor.

roll said:

Also you need to remove the EGR if you want to take a look at MAP sensor.

Click to expand...

The MAP sensor is bolted to the back of the inlet manifold on the JTD, roughly in the middle. It's under the black plastic engine cover... but you don't need to remove the EGR valve to get to it..


Ralf S.

I couldn't get a socket there to remove it with EGR installed. If he's going to remove it anyway, it is just a reminder to do it when EGR is out.