Now then...
I used the bank holiday to fit a new complete nearside driveshaft... which has solved the clunking noise I was getting.
The inner CV cup had worn grooves where the spider/tripoids acted on it and these were allowing the driveshaft to move in and out about 3-4mm.
However, I am still getting a wheel bearing noise. I originally suspected the noise was coming from the outer CV (related to the conking) but anyway I bought a new wheel bearing in case that one (n/s) was knacked.
But I found the bearing was pretty good, so I decided to leave it (since changing wheel bearings is the equivalent of wrestling with a couple of male gorillas and I didn't have the energy for it).
Now that I know the nearside wheel bearing is okay and the CV is new, I'm more sure that the wheel bearing noise is coming from the *other* side (o/s). I will get round to dismantling the hub and then if necessary fit my new bearing there... but my question is;
How do you remove the hub flange from the bearing? The bearing looks like it just pushes out (with gorilla-wrestling amounts of effort probably) towards the driveshaft/gearbox direction.. but the hub flange looks like it's just pressed into the bearing from the other side.
I presume you need to push the hub flange out of the bearing (from behind) and then push the bearing out of the carrier from the front (after removing the circlip)?
On the other hand, what stops the hub flange from just falling out? If it was really loose, say, there is nothing preventing it (with the wheel attached) from being pulled out of the carrier.
Secondly, on balance, is it a better idea to get a new hub flange rather than try to extract the old one in one piece from the bearing? I suspect the inner race will want to stay attached to it (although Grinder, queen of the workshop) has despatched sticky bearing races from hub flanges in the past... she's bad-ass...
Ralf S.
I used the bank holiday to fit a new complete nearside driveshaft... which has solved the clunking noise I was getting.
The inner CV cup had worn grooves where the spider/tripoids acted on it and these were allowing the driveshaft to move in and out about 3-4mm. However, I am still getting a wheel bearing noise. I originally suspected the noise was coming from the outer CV (related to the conking) but anyway I bought a new wheel bearing in case that one (n/s) was knacked.
But I found the bearing was pretty good, so I decided to leave it (since changing wheel bearings is the equivalent of wrestling with a couple of male gorillas and I didn't have the energy for it).
Now that I know the nearside wheel bearing is okay and the CV is new, I'm more sure that the wheel bearing noise is coming from the *other* side (o/s). I will get round to dismantling the hub and then if necessary fit my new bearing there... but my question is;
How do you remove the hub flange from the bearing? The bearing looks like it just pushes out (with gorilla-wrestling amounts of effort probably) towards the driveshaft/gearbox direction.. but the hub flange looks like it's just pressed into the bearing from the other side.
I presume you need to push the hub flange out of the bearing (from behind) and then push the bearing out of the carrier from the front (after removing the circlip)?
On the other hand, what stops the hub flange from just falling out? If it was really loose, say, there is nothing preventing it (with the wheel attached) from being pulled out of the carrier.
Secondly, on balance, is it a better idea to get a new hub flange rather than try to extract the old one in one piece from the bearing? I suspect the inner race will want to stay attached to it (although Grinder, queen of the workshop) has despatched sticky bearing races from hub flanges in the past... she's bad-ass...
Ralf S.
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