Technical Suspension Knocking

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Technical Suspension Knocking

Joined
Mar 5, 2007
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219
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Location
West Yorkshire
Hi guys,

I’ve had a knocking coming from the front of my 2004 1.6 3 door when going over bumps ever since I bought it about 4 months ago. I’ve changed both drop links and checked everything I can but it’s still not getting any better. The track rod ends are fine with no play at all, and the spring catcher is not rubbing on anything.

This weekend I decided to have one last final look (as well as cleaning my air control valve) as my lowering springs are coming this week.

I still can’t find anything that could be knocking! Though I did tighten up the top suspension strut mount as tight as it would go with a massive bar! This has made a slight improvement but it still knocks when going over bumps.

What could it be? I’m thinking as it got better with tightening up the top mount nut it may be the top bearing/strut mount? Do these knock? I’m thinking I may as well replace these as I’m taking them off when I replace the springs.

Anyone have the parts numbers of the parts I should be replacing?

The only other thing I can think of is the lower suspension arm bushes? Anyone know if these are prone to fail/knock?

Any advice appreciated, as these is doing my head in! If it’s not fixed by the time I’ve put my new springs on, I think I’ll change the suspension for some scaffolding bars!

Cheers
Matt :worship:
 
You can get Knocking from all the areas that you have mentioned and would replace the top rubber mounts and the bearings when you change your springs ..you can check the bottom joint from the lower arm to the hub carrier by jacking up and rocking the wheel by placing your hands on the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock an looking for movement while doing so and 9 to 3 o'clock for track rod ends ..I have just noticed that I have a slight knock on the off side front on mine ..just jacked her up and had a check and track rod end OK.. lower arm OK.. but slight movement in the front wheel bearing :eek: and bugger me I haven't got a socket to fit the damn nut :bang: anyone know what size the nut is :)
 
You can get Knocking from all the areas that you have mentioned and would replace the top rubber mounts and the bearings when you change your springs

Nice one, thanks for for info. I havent checked the wheel bearings so i'll do that next (y). Cant have gone as the car has only done 37k! :idea:, we will have to see!

I'm not 100% sure what to ask for when I get the top mount parts. The bearing is ok, but i'm not sure what rubber mount you mean? Not the top rubber cover that you can see under the bonnet? Any idea of prices?

Cheers :worship:
 
My car has done 35k and the bearing need just nipping down TBO and if I leave it it will damage the bearing so it needs to be tightened ..just need to find out the size of the socket :bang:

When I bought mine back in July 06 they cost me £19.46p ea plus vat I bought two so the total was £35.03 inc vat part number is 50702841 and they call it an elastic pad [reading from the invoice] :D this part actualy fits on top of the spring and the bearing sits directly underneath it (y)

Have a look at this you want item 5

http://www.spangerum.com:7080/navi?...=3&WINDOW_ID=1&SGRP_COD=1&SGS_COD=1&DRW_NUM=2
 
Last edited:
Nice one, thanks very much! :):)

Maybe i'm being a bit thick but I cant seem to find the bearing on that diagram? It would be good if I had the part number for that as well.

Cheers again! (y)


My car has done 35k and the bearing need just nipping down TBO and if I leave it it will damage the bearing so it needs to be tightened ..just need to find out the size of the socket :bang:

When I bought mine back in July 06 they cost me £19.46p ea plus vat I bought two so the total was £35.03 inc vat part number is 50702841 and they call it an elastic pad [reading from the invoice] :D this part actualy fits on top of the spring and the bearing sits directly underneath it (y)

Have a look at this you want item 5

http://www.spangerum.com:7080/navi?...=3&WINDOW_ID=1&SGRP_COD=1&SGS_COD=1&DRW_NUM=2
 
Its the next item down and fits into the base of the rubber mount why they call it a ring is beond me ask the dealer about it and he will help you out here and you will see it when you dismantle the strut you cant miss it its metal ring and full of ball bearings ..Now I see why its called a ring :D
 
Its the next item down and fits into the base of the rubber mount why they call it a ring is beond me ask the dealer about it and he will help you out here and you will see it when you dismantle the strut you cant miss it its metal ring and full of ball bearings ..Now I see why its called a ring :D

Just got back from my local dealer (left before seeing this!!:rolleyes:) and they said they had no bearings at all and that plate is juat a blank metal plate! Useless dealer! :bang:

He did have one of them rubbers in stock (got another one on order), but I cant see how that would cause knocking? Do I really need the rubber and the bearing? Surely its the worn out bearing that causes the knocking?

O well...back i go!

Thanks! :)
 
Nice one, thanks for for info. I havent checked the wheel bearings so i'll do that next (y). Cant have gone as the car has only done 37k! :idea:, we will have to see!

Never say "Can't" - This is a Stilo we're talking about :p

Will be keeping a very close eye on this thread because I'm having just the same problem.
 
Do I really need the rubber and the bearing? Surely its the worn out bearing that causes the knocking?

Thanks! :)

Hi guys,

Off to pick up the parts from the dealer in the morning. Do I really need to buy the rubber part as well as the bearing? I cant see how the rubber part would stop the kncoking?

Cheers
Matt:worship:
 
It doesnt stop any knocking but does groan when dry and for the small cost false economy not to change ..good luck with the change over (y)
 
It doesnt stop any knocking but does groan when dry and for the small cost false economy not to change ..good luck with the change over (y)

Nice one, I’ll get the rubbers as well as the bearings then.

I’m fitting my new springs (not dampers) this weekend, and I’ve just got a question about the rear ones. Will I need to take the rear dampers out or just unbolt them from the lower mount and then change the spring? I’ve had a look at the guide but I can’t seem to work out if I’ll need to remove the damper to change the spring.

Cheers
Matt
(y)
 
All you need to do is unbolt the shock from the bottom mounting point and the rear arm should drop enough for you to prise the rear springs out ..and make sure you havnt jacked the car up under the rear suspension cos the jack will hold it up and it wont drop enough for you to get the springs out ..just a small point I thought I would mention :)
 
All you need to do is unbolt the shock from the bottom mounting point and the rear arm should drop enough for you to prise the rear springs out ..and make sure you havnt jacked the car up under the rear suspension cos the jack will hold it up and it wont drop enough for you to get the springs out ..just a small point I thought I would mention :)

Nice one, did it all last night! :)

See here for details https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/108189-35mm-pi-springs-my-experience.html

Changing the rubbers and bearings haven’t stopped the knocking though (n) (n) :mad: :mad: :cry: :cry:. They were £100 as well!! O well, at least that’s something else ruled out of the equation!

Think I’ll start a new thread about what to check next...

Cheers :worship:
 
You will have to check the three points on the arm ..the most obvious one will be the one that connects to the bottom on the hub assembly ..first of all check if the joint has any movement by jacking up the car and holding the wheel at 12to 6 o'clock and rocking the wheel to see if you have any ware in the peg of the joint ..you can also put some bricks under the joint and leave enough space to get a lever under the joint and lever upwards under the joint to see if there is any ware vertically in the joint.. does that help ?
 
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