Haynes manual says my engine has no markings!!
I'm starting to really hate this damn car
Yours is, methinks, a 16v.
Technical 1.2 8v Punto Cam/Timing Belt Renewal, Looking for tips and help
- Thread starter L2cifer
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Technical 1.2 8v Punto Cam/Timing Belt Renewal, Looking for tips and help
Yours is, methinks, a 16v.
nope an 8v but haynes says engine numbers between 6.800.001 and 7.000.000 don't have the markings. Mine is 6.823. summat or other
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they do..ive done one recently on mine and the mark on the bottom pully is a little nipple. and the top pully is a little triangle mark
Ah right thanks! So haynes is wrong :S Feck it I'm gonna have a crack 2morrow. So last thing is does the engine block need coming off to do it as i don't have anything to support the engine
I'm not sure about that -- I think you'll be able to get to it, but you'll need the front wheel off. Working on a car without at least axle stands on it is a particularly nasty way die.
Ahh I'm not too bothered bout dying, I'm more worried about not getting the timing right again! Plus i can't take the plastic off round the wheel because every screw, nut and bolt is rusted to ****e. I had to work above and under the car just to tighten my alternator belt the other day! Its a pain but I have an assistant! 
not a very smart one but it's an extra pair of hands at least!
not a very smart one but it's an extra pair of hands at least!
to support the engine get a thick peice of metal/wood that will reach from the front of the car to the corner by the front suspension and get heavy duty rope thread it under the engine securely then tighten onto the metal/wood then put something underneath to take a bit of weight like a jack with a flat bit of material
The job doesnt really need the wheel coming off if you take all the top off, time it with the old belt so the top pully is in the right place to lock it i got a piece of metal and put it though were the campshaft sensor is and theres a bit of metal on the pully that you lever against to stop it spinning if you get what i mean...
Its all about touchy feely when removing bolts and stuff lol..
another note if you taken water pump off remember to drain only coolent off first and then put new stuff back in
The job doesnt really need the wheel coming off if you take all the top off, time it with the old belt so the top pully is in the right place to lock it i got a piece of metal and put it though were the campshaft sensor is and theres a bit of metal on the pully that you lever against to stop it spinning if you get what i mean...
Its all about touchy feely when removing bolts and stuff lol..
another note if you taken water pump off remember to drain only coolent off first and then put new stuff back in
It's worth getting a trolley jack and axle stands. Screwfix do a cheapo kit for about £30. You will need to take the engine mounting off to get at the tensioner (at least I couldn't see a way to do it without) which means supporting the block with something. I suppose it would be feasible to do it with blocks of wood.
I managed to take off all but one of the screws on the plastic wheel liners and then just manipulate it out of the way.
If you use the camshaft slot (remove the coil packs) to get TDC, you can just put a mark on a crankshaft pulley where it meets the sensor. The existing timing mark in the bell housing is the easiest though, just use a torch and a mirror to look in the little rectangular slot on top of the gearbox.
The thing I couldn't figure out was a good way to undo the crankshaft pulley bolts without turning the crankshaft. Tips anyone?
I managed to take off all but one of the screws on the plastic wheel liners and then just manipulate it out of the way.
If you use the camshaft slot (remove the coil packs) to get TDC, you can just put a mark on a crankshaft pulley where it meets the sensor. The existing timing mark in the bell housing is the easiest though, just use a torch and a mirror to look in the little rectangular slot on top of the gearbox.
The thing I couldn't figure out was a good way to undo the crankshaft pulley bolts without turning the crankshaft. Tips anyone?
You do not need to release the engine mount to change an 8V cambelt.
Removing the wheel arch liner will make the job far easier. Just bite the bullet and sort it.
Cheers
SPD
Removing the wheel arch liner will make the job far easier. Just bite the bullet and sort it.
Cheers
SPD
you deffinatly do, the belt goes around the mount.
and just to add to this, my sisters water pump has gone! lol cant believe it, i only fitted it in march 09.
The alternator pulley bolts 3 can be jarred out (leave the plugs in the engine) that's why you remove them before checking the timing (with the old belt on). The central and single crank pulley bolt must only be removed with the engine locked up at the flywheel, otherwise you'll just snap the locating tangs off one of the pulleys.
@beau: Thats unlucky dude regarding your sisters water pump!!
It's quite odd you guys started discussing the need to remove the engine mount thing because i was going to ask about this!
I find the prospect of jacking my engine up quite daunting (but not put me off the idea entirely!)
However is it possible to do it with only removing front right wheel and arch lining? So far beau says u have to remove the mount and rallycinq said it's possible...
If i could get some confirmation on that it would be good! However i'm not in a rush for the information because first i need to either:
A) borrow my dad's axle stands and trolley jack
or
B) go out and purchase some!
I'm getting a bit worried about the timing stuff but if i take my time marking all the bits and bobs hopefully i'll be fine!
It's quite odd you guys started discussing the need to remove the engine mount thing because i was going to ask about this!
I find the prospect of jacking my engine up quite daunting (but not put me off the idea entirely!)
However is it possible to do it with only removing front right wheel and arch lining? So far beau says u have to remove the mount and rallycinq said it's possible...
If i could get some confirmation on that it would be good! However i'm not in a rush for the information because first i need to either:
A) borrow my dad's axle stands and trolley jack
or
B) go out and purchase some!
I'm getting a bit worried about the timing stuff but if i take my time marking all the bits and bobs hopefully i'll be fine!
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you wont be able to get the belt off with the mount there.
just put a jack with a block of wood under the sump to support the engine, its dead easy.
just put a jack with a block of wood under the sump to support the engine, its dead easy.
will the sump be able to take all that weight? Whenever i've seen oil sumps up close they're always batter from speed humps and stuff lol so i get the impression they're a bit weak...
However... the engine will still be connected to the chassis on the right hand side won't it.
Is the putting on and off of the belt super fiddly or not to bad?
However... the engine will still be connected to the chassis on the right hand side won't it
.Is the putting on and off of the belt super fiddly or not to bad?
will the sump be able to take all that weight? Whenever i've seen oil sumps up close they're always batter from speed humps and stuff lol so i get the impression they're a bit weak...
However... the engine will still be connected to the chassis on the right hand side won't it
Is the putting on and off of the belt super fiddly or not to bad?
i do it all the time, people always say dont do it on here but i have done it for years, and using wood to put even weight across the sump its not a problem, going by some of the things people say on here it would be impossible to do anything to a car lol, what do you think a garage is going to do? im pretty damn sure they will have an axle stand under the sump
i find it easy but its not as easy as people on here make out tbh, sometimes you do need to move the crank/cam pulleys slightly to get the belt on then move them back, but cos these are safe engines, you cant really go wrong, if you get stuck then you come and ask on here
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heh, to be honest if it wasn't for this forum with all its guides and helpful members i don't think i would even bother attempting it! So i won't hesitate to come screaming to the forums if i get stuck.
These forums are great for finding things to do that i don't need to too haha! Now i'm itching to get my kettle/hairdryer to my side strips, install a remote sensor thing to upgrade my key central locking and try and find some nice (but cheap) alloys!
These forums are great for finding things to do that i don't need to too haha! Now i'm itching to get my kettle/hairdryer to my side strips, install a remote sensor thing to upgrade my key central locking and try and find some nice (but cheap) alloys!
I use the axle stand/jack under the sump thing. The block of wood is very important to spread the load, though. One day I'll get round to making a proper engine support.
i used a 2 tins of paint under the sump and a bar across the engine with a rope around it haha
improvisation there haha
improvisation there haha
Well I'm having a crack at mine this morning! Wish me luck! need some circlip pliers to tighten belt back up apparently?? Going to get one anyways. Just get ready for a thread asking what to do when everything is fooked up!!
you dont need to pliers, just need to lever the tensioner to oneside till the belt is tight enough
