The charged me £666 for parts & labour.
Technical Red steering wheel light
- Thread starter Lorna87
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Technical Red steering wheel light
The charged me £666 for parts & labour.
that is a lot of money for a steering rack replacement, did they do any other work?
Some folks have paid considerably more than this.
It isn't a steering rack replacement.
The power steering motor is in the steering column; it is that part which fails (more correctly, it's the torque sensor, but main dealers generally replace the motor complete). You have to dismantle the steering column, so the steering wheel and drivers airbag has to come out. Also the parts, if bought from Fiat, aren't cheap (though there are alternative aftermarket solutions). If fitting a new motor, you generally also need to put the car on eletronic diagnostics afterwards, to calibrate the column to the car.
There's no need to disturb the rack itself.
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You're quite right. I didn't look at the invoice closely. The actual steering fix was £399 + VAT. About another tenner for the diagnostics. The rest was fixing a gearbox leak.
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When I replaced the inner steering arms (track rods) I was really quite stunned as to how tough it would be to change the steering rack. It looks like the whole subframe (and with it the engine and gearbox) would need to come out.
As others have said the power steering is a motor in the steering column. The dashboard voltmeter allows you to deduce if the problem is the electrical system or the steering itself.
As others have said the power steering is a motor in the steering column. The dashboard voltmeter allows you to deduce if the problem is the electrical system or the steering itself.
Just wanted to update you all that we made it to Weymouth. It was pretty much a clear run, and we had a couple of stops as well as a fuel stop and a stop where we parked in quite a tight multi-storey. Absolutely no issues with the car. So after today, we will be driving back home to give it another good run.
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When you say dis connect the battery re seat the steering connector ...can you ...tell me more about the steering connector ...My steering on my IDEA just failed in a car park at low speed ...got a Greek friend to plug in his lap top and got... as far as I can translate "motor failure " ....battery is new this year ...Ive got replacement unit coming from Italy with the same part number as mine I've stripped out all the trim so I can get at it ...just waiting for the part ...
Check the connector (probably green, blue or yellow loom) behind the steering shroud.
Edit: and the usual steeringcodes are C1002 and so on. If not it could be the alternator as well.
gr J
Edit: and the usual steeringcodes are C1002 and so on. If not it could be the alternator as well.
gr J
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Probably was just that the battery charge was a bit low because of the short journeys with lights on.
Take it for a longer run in daylight once in a while and it will probably be fine.
Take it for a longer run in daylight once in a while and it will probably be fine.
Yes, battery voltage can cause all sorts of glitches, chances are it will never be an issue again,
Well until next winter if like me, you do short distances in the dark/cold with lights, rear window heater and other things on.
I will probably take my battery out and give it a charge to get it ready just before next winter.
If it has managed 1 week without having issues it was probably just the battery voltage, If you do short distance it will probably happen again but then taking the battery out and giving it a charge will fix it.
Mine has been fine too since replacing the battery but I do 2-3 miles and then switch it off, so it will happen again to me.
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If the car is not parked on the road, you can charge the battery without removing it from the car.
Another option would be a Lithium booster battery. If it starts with that connected you have the clue. If it's not needed, you'll have a power top up device for your phone, iPad, laptop, etc.
Another option would be a Lithium booster battery. If it starts with that connected you have the clue. If it's not needed, you'll have a power top up device for your phone, iPad, laptop, etc.
I have the panda as a runabout, kept on the street as the drive is full with my other cars
I don't like charging batteries while in the car, unless in a garage with the bonnet fully open, the gas produced while charging can damage paintwork, I might be a bit ocd from my years as a mechanic, and it doesn't take long to remove a battery, and charging in a warn ventilated room is also better for the battery.
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Fair comment but a decent charger should never let the battery get to the stage where acid fumes are given off. But as you say its no big deal to remove the battery and as yours is on the road it can't be done in the car.
I have an Optimate used for the motorbike. I had no power in the garage so couldn't use it for float charging but it was a gentle way to keep the bike topped up. The last bike batt lasted 5 years with extensive periods of dis-use so that was pretty good. I replaced it with a LiFePO4 solid state "lithium" battery which could sit untouched for months without damage. That would have been killed by an Optimate (24 volts boost) but just 4 Amp Hours swung the big engine no problems.
The Optimate recovered old car batteries and more than once got me out of a hole when I really should have just changed the thing ages before.
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I too have an optimate they are great conditioner/chargers, I use it on my R1, what bike do you have?
I have connected the Optimate to the old Panda battery and it seems to have done a good job bringing it back from death although it took a while. The other 3 chargers I have are not as good at conditioning.
I recommend the Noco GB40 for jumpstarting almost anything even a 5.5 V8.
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I used to have a 2008 BMW GS Adventure. The battery was a fancy Odyssey that began to give trouble after a few years. I replaced it with a JMT LiFePO4 which took the weight for 5Kg to under 1 Kg. The JMT swung the engine just as easily but would struggle below 5 degs C where this battery type gets increased internal resistance. A "failed" start attempt warms the battery then it will go fine.
I would have a LiFePO4 on the car (same cost as the car batt) but the cold performance is an issue. It could be solved with a warming pad but that won't be doing anything on a cold morning and I don't want to be resetting the clock every day.
I would have a LiFePO4 on the car (same cost as the car batt) but the cold performance is an issue. It could be solved with a warming pad but that won't be doing anything on a cold morning and I don't want to be resetting the clock every day.
