Technical Panda 4x4 how to replace centre bearing

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Technical Panda 4x4 how to replace centre bearing

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Hey all

I'm currently converting a cinquecento to awd by using a panda 4x4 system, but I could not find any info at all about replacing the centre bearing/bush other then a high specialist cost.

As mine is buggered and I have to shorten the prop so it is of use to me I thought I'd kill 2 birds with 1stone.

I chopped the bearing up into pieces and could find nothing so I assumed that the end cap was welded on internally then to the tube.


I chopped the end off the tube only to find a splined joint inside...
 
So with the prop off the car with a a little bit of force the prop front half will come come away from the uj and allow direct access to the bearing, there is a master spline on there so it will only go on one way, just take note of the small o-ring seal to stop debris getting to the spline

The prop shouldn't need balancing either as you arnt having to smell with anything on that side of it.

Ash
 

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If you are shortening the tube, this should ideally be done by a specialist, who can rebalance it after welding it at the shorter length. Although there is a master spline, if you are chopping it, make sure you put the master spline back in the same place. The shaft has 3 joints, so it is important to maintain the original alignment.
 
If you are shortening the tube, this should ideally be done by a specialist, who can rebalance it after welding it at the shorter length. Although there is a master spline, if you are chopping it, make sure you put the master spline back in the same place. The shaft has 3 joints, so it is important to maintain the original alignment.


hey I'm a mech by trade but I do agree with your concerns these end yokes don't have a lip and only a straight butt fitment, I will turn both faces true on a lathe and have a press fit sleeve inside and welded in place then have it sent off for balancing

As for the master spline position it wouldn't be critical on this style of shaft as the 2 outers are just cvs off the vag range and the single uj doesn't have another to balance it out.






Do you have a replacement centre bearing? O bought one for omy old (2005() 5s5 Panda, but never got round to attempting to fit it as I bought a 9month old 'new' 4x4 instead at a good price. Cost me £40 I think,,, needs a new home

Hey I haven't bought a centre bearing and bush as of yet but iirc they ate obtainable off eBay for around 25 GBP now

Thanks
Ash
 
Do you have a replacement centre bearing? O bought one for omy old (2005() 5s5 Panda, but never got round to attempting to fit it as I bought a 9month old 'new' 4x4 instead at a good price. Cost me £40 I think,,, needs a new home
Who moved all the letters around on my keyboard? But I think you got the drift!
 
UJs create a small torsional vibration should not be set aligned. Logic says set each end 180 degrees apart but I'm no expert.
 
UJs create a small torsional vibration should not be set aligned. Logic says set each end 180 degrees apart but I'm no expert.

90 degrees is wha is needed. Which is probably what you were thinking. 180 is effectively the same as zero.:D

A UJ does not give a constant output compared to the input unless directly in line. By using pairs, 90 degrees apart, the loss of one will equal the gain of the other. Some props have a third joint, but usually one of the three hardly flexes, so the other two are the 'pair'.
I remember a graph of this when I was at college, might even be able to find it now, except I shan't bother.
 
90 degrees is wha is needed. Which is probably what you were thinking. 180 is effectively the same as zero.:D

Hey! That's the one! :D

A mate at work shortened a prop shaft and welded it up nicely - we had huge lathes with enough length to hold it all in line and then skim off any excess weld. His shaft was well balanced straight off but the UJs were shot in no time because he had set them in line (or was that 180 degrees out of phase).
 
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