General panda oil flow

Currently reading:
General panda oil flow

kevin_ross100

New member
Joined
Nov 20, 2003
Messages
76
Points
15
Location
gloucester, United Kingdom.
Hi
I`ve got a 92(k) panda 750. The other day i took it into my local garage to have the carb set up etc. they said that no oil was getting to the top of the engine they put lots of engine flush down it and it seems to be not tooo bad, what i want to know is i did an oil change on the car and usd 5/40w oil is that too thin for the oil pump to pump? should i change back to 15/40w?
 
I tried 5/40w in my '93CLX 999 - it started easier in the cold weather, but the engine was noisier - sort of rattley.
YMMV - depends how (ab)used it was before you got it.

I went back to 15/40w - which is the specified oil AFAIK.

It costs less than 20UKP as a DIY job.
I often find 5 litre tubs of GTX (15/40w) at 9.99UKP and use 3.5 litres a go.

Also if there's one of these near you:

http://www.countrywideweb.co.uk/

they do "Q8" in 4 litre tubs - basic mineral oils for 7.5UKP

exotic stuff (semi-synthetic) is more.
 
How much for Selenia lubricants there[?]Actually I use Elf STI 10w40 semisinthetic oil, even if previously my engine has drunk only mineral oils...PUAH:D!!!I paid it 7.50€/liter, but this was because a garage replaced it!BTW I think a 5w40 could help the engine particularly with your cold climate, and if the higher grade is the same (SAE 40) there wouldn't be any problems in lubrication...how comes did you heard it sounding bad, John[:0][?][?]
 
Originally posted by Enzo
How much for Selenia lubricants there[?]Actually I use Elf STI 10w40 semisinthetic oil, even if previously my engine has drunk only mineral oils...PUAH:D!!!I paid it 7.50€/liter, but this was because a garage replaced it!BTW I think a 5w40 could help the engine particularly with your cold climate, and if the higher grade is the same (SAE 40) there wouldn't be any problems in lubrication...how comes did you heard it sounding bad, John[:0][?][?]

In theory it should be OK with the higher number equal, but that's what I found...

As to why, I've no idea of the true history of my Panda - we'd been looking for weeks, and it was the best of a bad bunch, despite having had more owners than I have digits on on hand[:eek:)]
It had 70 k miles on when I got it (another 8 K in the last year), but the drivers seat was virtually worn through, and the pedal rubbers are well worn, and the synchro is worn out on third and fourth gear...
so it's probably done considerably more.

But the MOT test (passed again last week) gave exhaust emission figures which are "too good for one of those".

So there is some life in the old thing yet.

It is also coping well with my youngest daughter learning to drive - which is primarily what it was bought for - it still has a nice clutch, and the brakes are good for a non-servo Panda.

Regarding the price of FIAT oils - the dealers are few and far between here, so I don't know the current prices.
The last lot I got was some gearbox oil, in 1 litre tubs, and those were over 10 euro each over 2 years ago.
 
yeah the engine is quite rattley like the value clearences are out a bit
i will try a change back to 15/40w and see what it goees like. btw its only got 50k on the clock and is in very good condition not bad for my first car its only 150cc bigger than my motorbike!!!!!!!!! ahh well the panda ploda gets me about :)
 
Originally posted by John H
But the MOT test (passed again last week) gave exhaust emission figures which are "too good for one of those".
Congratulations! :)

p_blue.gif
a_blue.gif
u_blue.gif
l_blue.gif
 
Thank you, Paul.

I should have mentioned he warned me one of the outboard driveshaft boots is starting to go, so I need to sort that before it wrecks the joint[:(!]

But, apart from the grumbly gearbox, it's fine. :D
 
Have you already replaced the boot??I'd like you to explain step-by-step how to dismantle the driveshaft from the gearbox...I think it will help me in replacing the clutch kit;):p!
 
you can get driveshaft rubber boots that you put on with out removing driveshaft they come with glue. I did have a link to an online supplier but i can't find it now if I find it i'll put it up. there was someone on ebay selling them.



----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please do not Email or PM me asking for support. Post on the forums instead. Your reply may help someone else. Thank you
 
Originally posted by Enzo
Have you already replaced the boot??I'd like you to explain step-by-step how to dismantle the driveshaft from the gearbox...I think it will help me in replacing the clutch kit;):p!

I'm likely to get it done in the next few days.

Will let you know how it goes.

I did the inboard ones (by the gearbox) on my elder daughters CL about 2 1/2 years ago.
From what I can remember... the book (Haynes) talks about undoing the large locked on nut on the end of the hub, and splitting the bottom suspension joint and the track-rod end too, to remove the hub and drive shaft as <s>one lump</s> two lumps.

ISTR doing this on the first side (the nut was about 10 euro [:0] ) and having difficulty with the bottom joint on the other side, and undoing the bottom wishbone joint at the body of the car, and also separating the suspension strut bottom from the top of the hub assembly, and the track control arm, instead.... all to avoid disturbing bottom joint, and the hub:(

It worked, and was cheaper (no nut to replace), but it was heavier to maul about when relocating the tripod joint.

The only thing which might not be "quite right" now, is the angle the wheel is with respect to vertical when viewed from the front: the bolts at the bottom of the strut and spring assembly have a bit of play and you can alter this angle a bit...

One other thing which may be of interest is I should have a copy of "Porter" soon, to complement my "Haynes",as I have one on order.
It will be interesting to compare suggested methods.
 
I'd be pleased if you posted the pages dealing with this argument...because I think it's not an easy job to do the clutchB)!BTW I'm surprised reading of all those clutch that start to produce grinding noises even with low mileages[:0]...mine's worn (120.000km on the clock and we buyed the car by 2nd hand) but the pedal is smooth and the gear selection still easy[8D]!THe gearbox is another part which gives some problems as I've read on this forum, maybe my car's fortunate:D, but when I'll have it on the floor I'll take a look at the syncros because they're stressed components!
 
Back
Top