[FONT=&quot]Hi All,[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Just given the Sisley a little service and on its first run since it’s developed a couple of issues:[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Firstly; I now don’t have the ignition warning light (battery light) before starting the engine - just the oil pressure light that goes out once started. And the temp gauge has stopped working. I’ve previously done all the earth points and it was working fine before the service.[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Secondly, the engine now cuts out when off choke and off throttle. It will idle with the choke out but not in when up to temp. When you switch the engine off it tries to run on (possibly because the choke is out?). I’ve checked the solenoid on the distributor and I can pull a vacuum on it. The carb solenoid clicks when you put the wire on to it with ignition on: so I believe both are working.[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Not sure if I have disturbed something doing the service? I did oil + filter, inline fuel filter, air filter and plugs.[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Anyone got any ideas of what else to check?[/FONT]

Pure guess work at the best. Stating the obvious I would retrace everything you did, the chances of disturbing something are high up there.

Hello. Ok, the ignition warning light problem. Most older alternators were really very simple. Stator windings in the casing which were connected to the diode pack and produced the current which actually charges the battery and Rotor windings which are wrapped round the core part which spins. On the end of the rotor are two slip rings with carbon brushes so electric current can be passed through the core windings and create a strong magnetic field in the spinning core. Current to energise this core comes from the pos battery terminal, through the ignition warning lamp on the dash (who knows why it's called an ign warning light 'cos it's got nothing to do with the ignition circuit!) From there it goes to the small terminal on the back of the alternator through the regulator pack to one of the carbon brushes (or direct to the rotor windings with the regulator connected to the earth side brush) and into the core rotor windings. It leaves via the other brush which is earthed. When you switch the ignition on current flows through this circuit directly to earth so the light lights up (if the bulb isn't blown - and on many installations a blown bulb will stop the alternator charging!) and the rotor will become strongly magnetic. As soon as the alternator starts to generate current it "pushes back" against the flow of electricity from the battery and by the time the alternator is generating around 9 volts the ign light will go out because there is not now enough potential difference across the bulb to make it light - Big note. just because the ign warning light goes out does not therefore necessarily mean the battery is getting enough current to charge it! - So, maybe the small wire has come off the alternator (quite common). Somewhere in this circuit there's a break or the bulb is blown, might be brushes even or the regulator pack. A quick and very crude test we used to do on these earlier setups was to disconnect the small wire from the back of the alternator and earth it expecting to see the ign light illuminate, if it did you could be fairly sure you had an alternator problem.

My Panda Parade had single point injection but my daughters 750 had a carb and I'm trying to remember what the setup was. My guess with the slow running, especially as she was running fine before you started, is that you've got a breather/vacuum hose off or cracked somewhere which is letting the mixture lean out too much to let her idle. the fact that she runs at higher revs with the choke out supports this. Of course there's lots of other things like blocked slow running jets etc but why would they just happen now? Sorry can't be more helpful at arms length like this.

Good luck and let us know how it goes
Jock

I replaced the alternator on a Citroen BX 1.9 because the charge warning light was on. New alternator fitted no light - lovely. A few miles down the road and the light came on again. F**k!

I stopped opened the bonnet to check nothing had fallen off and all seemed ok. Restarted and the light was out. Very odd. Then about 1/2 mile down the road I noticed a click as the light came on again.

Stopped the car and traced the loom (containing alternator wires) back to the fuse box to find a wire had rubbed on a body seam. This was the fault. It caused a relay to trip so the warning light came on. The alternator was fine but the balancing supply across the warning light tripped out. Some self amalgamating tape and a rubber sleeve over the body seam solved the problem.

Check your wiring on both sides of the charge warning light. If you lose the alternator side the light will come on, but equally, losing the battery side will also put the light on.

[FONT=&quot]Hi all,[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Thanks for all the advice.....bit of an update.[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]The ignition light has been solved. It was the cable on the alternator. The temp gauge still isn’t working… tried the connection on the sensor…. intermittent at best.[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]I've still not been able to get the engine to run at idle. I thought it maybe the position of the fuel filter / old fuel line either side of the filter causing an air trap. I've moved it to a slightly lower position with new line and although better (next to no air in the filter now) it hasn’t solved the idle. [/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]I've taken the air / idle jets out of the top of the carb and cleaned them (they didn’t really need it) and no surprise no change. Car still runs on choke or on the move… just idle it dies (even between changing gears).[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]The only thing I can think is a carb rebuild. Anyone got any advice on this? I’ve not done one before - nor do I have a manual / diagram.[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Or does anyone have further things to try?[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]Si.[/FONT]