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124 Spider (Classic) new user with carb problems
- Thread starter vfrone
- Start date
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124 Spider (Classic) new user with carb problems
If you dont know what you are doing definitely do not take your carburetor apart at all.
The last person I helped with a carburetor problem had taken it apart, this caused all sorts of extra problems before getting me involved. I first fixed his faulty ignition system then had to fix his carburetor which only had no problems before it had been taken apart.
Please describe your problem in detail.
The last person I helped with a carburetor problem had taken it apart, this caused all sorts of extra problems before getting me involved. I first fixed his faulty ignition system then had to fix his carburetor which only had no problems before it had been taken apart.
Please describe your problem in detail.
Butterfly doesn't work properly and once I get the
car started it sputters and vibrates when driving. My mechanic suggested replacing the carb but I'm getting different answers as to which replacement one I need and I need someone to install as the new ones have the electric choke to hook up
car started it sputters and vibrates when driving. My mechanic suggested replacing the carb but I'm getting different answers as to which replacement one I need and I need someone to install as the new ones have the electric choke to hook up
Butterfly doesn't work properly and once I get the
car started it sputters and vibrates when driving. My mechanic suggested replacing the carb but I'm getting different answers as to which replacement one I need and I need someone to install as the new ones have the electric choke to hook up
Please post a photo of part not working.
How old is your mechanic?
Don't know how to post pics but like I said butterfly doesn't always close on cold start and even when it does the choke doesn't work properly. (Had the car for 15 years no problems) My mechanic says its the choke mechanism that doesn't work correctly anymore. He's early 60's which is why I don't think he's up to wiring new carb. He works mostly on Benz and BMW nowadays plus he's closed for Covid right now.
Don't know how to post pics but like I said butterfly doesn't always close on cold start and even when it does the choke doesn't work properly. (Had the car for 15 years no problems) My mechanic says its the choke mechanism that doesn't work correctly anymore. He's early 60's which is why I don't think he's up to wiring new carb. He works mostly on Benz and BMW nowadays plus he's closed for Covid right now.
Ok now we are on to something.
If you can start car ,
get it to normal operating temperature and the choke butterfly can be fully opened and engine still won't run correctly ........
Then it has absolutely nothing to do with the choke.
Does your car have it's original contact breaker type ignition?
It is far more likely you have an ignition problem than a carb problem , plus sorting out ignition is very cheap and a great thing to do before thinking about carb.
Even then check fuel pump , fuel filter before going anywhere near carb.
Oh great you are in USA
You should be able to find someone who still understands contact breaker ignition systems. Try a local classic car club of any marque.
Contact breaker contacts need visual check for condition
check breaker gap/adjust
Set ignition timing
Check strength of spark from ht king lead to block, what size gap the spark will jump while engine cranking on starter.
Then spark gap test on each plug lead.
Check spark plugs and plug gaps.
Have all that done first.
The symptoms you have match ignition fault.
Rule that out first.
You should be able to find someone who still understands contact breaker ignition systems. Try a local classic car club of any marque.
Contact breaker contacts need visual check for condition
check breaker gap/adjust
Set ignition timing
Check strength of spark from ht king lead to block, what size gap the spark will jump while engine cranking on starter.
Then spark gap test on each plug lead.
Check spark plugs and plug gaps.
Have all that done first.
The symptoms you have match ignition fault.
Rule that out first.
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OP, you didn't say which year or model your car is! This info is important in order to get relevant advice....
IF the car runs ok when warmed up, then I think it's unlikely to be an ignition problem, so you could maybe skip the ignition checks/adjustments for the moment.
You say your Mechanic has determined the problem is that the choke flap (butterfly) isn't closing properly - I'll assume given his age/experience, he's correctly diagnosed the problem and has run some checks to rule out an ignition system fault.
And given that you ask about wiring up a carb. fitted with an electrical choke unit, I'll assume your carb has either a manually operated choke (i.e. pull the knob adjacent to ignition switch), or a coolant temperature operated choke unit.
If so, there might be no need to fit a new carb. nor need to wire up an electrically operated choke.
If manual choke (i.e. pull knob adjacent to ignition switch to operate) - this can usually be adjusted or fixed without changing anything.
If you have a coolant temperature operated choke, first check the adjustment of this unit and also the 'fast-idle' adjustment.
If these are ok, we ((I worked in a Fiat dealership, back in the day) used to replace just the choke unit, not the entire carb. While these choke units, on their own, are not listed by the likes of Autoricambi and MrFiat in the U.S., some of these choke units are still available from carb. specialists e.g. :-
www.webcon.co.uk/shopdisplayproducts.asp?page=2&id=682 (perhaps there are similar carb. specialists in the U.S.?)
If you decide to try to obtain and fit just the choke unit, you'll need to know the carb. model, this is stamped on the side of the bottom mounting flange of the carb. - remove the air cleaner and if necessary, use an inspection light + mirror to see it. If it's a Weber carb. it'll be something like 32DHSA; 34DMS; 28/36DHSA; 32ADFA etc, possibly followed by some other numbers to identify which jets are fitted etc.. If it's a Solex carb. e.g. C34EIES5, you're probably in trouble as spare parts for Solex carbs are very difficult to find nowadays.
This choke unit can be easily changed, could even do it yourself (it's not difficult). If you decide to do it yourself, I, or others on this forum, can guide you through the procedure.
Al.
IF the car runs ok when warmed up, then I think it's unlikely to be an ignition problem, so you could maybe skip the ignition checks/adjustments for the moment.
You say your Mechanic has determined the problem is that the choke flap (butterfly) isn't closing properly - I'll assume given his age/experience, he's correctly diagnosed the problem and has run some checks to rule out an ignition system fault.
And given that you ask about wiring up a carb. fitted with an electrical choke unit, I'll assume your carb has either a manually operated choke (i.e. pull the knob adjacent to ignition switch), or a coolant temperature operated choke unit.
If so, there might be no need to fit a new carb. nor need to wire up an electrically operated choke.
If manual choke (i.e. pull knob adjacent to ignition switch to operate) - this can usually be adjusted or fixed without changing anything.
If you have a coolant temperature operated choke, first check the adjustment of this unit and also the 'fast-idle' adjustment.
If these are ok, we ((I worked in a Fiat dealership, back in the day) used to replace just the choke unit, not the entire carb. While these choke units, on their own, are not listed by the likes of Autoricambi and MrFiat in the U.S., some of these choke units are still available from carb. specialists e.g. :-
www.webcon.co.uk/shopdisplayproducts.asp?page=2&id=682 (perhaps there are similar carb. specialists in the U.S.?)
If you decide to try to obtain and fit just the choke unit, you'll need to know the carb. model, this is stamped on the side of the bottom mounting flange of the carb. - remove the air cleaner and if necessary, use an inspection light + mirror to see it. If it's a Weber carb. it'll be something like 32DHSA; 34DMS; 28/36DHSA; 32ADFA etc, possibly followed by some other numbers to identify which jets are fitted etc.. If it's a Solex carb. e.g. C34EIES5, you're probably in trouble as spare parts for Solex carbs are very difficult to find nowadays.
This choke unit can be easily changed, could even do it yourself (it's not difficult). If you decide to do it yourself, I, or others on this forum, can guide you through the procedure.
Al.
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It's a 1976 Fiat 124 Spider. Carburetor is ADF 34. Automatic choke. Butterfly closes cold but in winter car won't stay on. My mechanic said the choke has a spring mechanism that allows butterfly to open as engine warms up and it does. I just have to keep it accelerated manually until engine warms up in cold weather or rpm drop to 0 and engine shuts off. I buy my parts from Vick's. They don't have a choke replacement. DO you know where I can find one?
It's a 1976 Fiat 124 Spider. Carburetor is ADF 34. Automatic choke. Butterfly closes cold but in winter car won't stay on. My mechanic said the choke has a spring mechanism that allows butterfly to open as engine warms up and it does. I just have to keep it accelerated manually until engine warms up in cold weather or rpm drop to 0 and engine shuts off. I buy my parts from Vick's. They don't have a choke replacement. DO you know where I can find one?
This parts supplier in the U.S. lists a choke unit for the 124 Spider:-
www.midwest-bayless.com/Fiat-124SC-...spider-131-1975-80-x19-128-Lancia-oe-nos.aspx
Al.
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