Hi My name is John and I am new on here, so I hope I have posted in the correct section.
I recently had a fault code saying that my dpf was above the correct threshold. I took it out for a spin and regenerated the dpf. Three weeks later I am at 62% clogging on my DPF according to multiecuscan (registered) and I am driving for about 10 mins then I am now getting a fault saying that My differential sensor has and still reads high and must peform a regeneration immediately.

So I cleared the fault again and it now says normal clogging at 62% so I drove the 10 mins back towards my house when yet again the fault comes back up. still 62 percent clogging but now reads to be regenerated and the same fault code about the differential sensor.

surely if my dpf was clogged and there was a high reading, the fault code would come back on immediatley. am i right or is this not so,

I dont want to force a regeneration if i dont have to, plus if my dpf is reading 62% it can not be blocked,

also is it true that the doblo will not regen itself until its above 80 % any way.


im guessing its a faulty sensor. what do you guys think. seems like this dpf is more trouble than its worth.

would appreciate any help wether obvious or not. cause i may be missing something obvious here.


thanks again and sorry for the mass of message

John

Hi I have read through what must be now, all of the dpf threads on here now, but have not come across this one as of yet so if there is any insight that anybody has, please dont hold back from commenting.

Thanks again.

John

Don't just drive it, murder it! Thrash it! Drive the bejeezus out of it and then some....

Get it started and warmed up. As soon as the temp guage starts to move, get onto the motorway/dual carriageway and get up to 4500rpm in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and if you dare, 4th.

At 70mph, drop into 3rd and hammer it for at least 20 seconds. Do this several times then 4th and drive it at 70mph....don't bother with 5th.

Do this once a week for around 5 miles unless you do some motorway driving every day. If that is the case, do the above every two weeks.

Do NOT try to save fuel by looking at the throttle pedal, stamp on it and make it scream.

I have to do this with several customers cars and they actually thank me for it as the car is quicker and more fuel efficient.

Of but I have done over 600 miles this week on the motorways and my car regeneration automatically on Wednesday. Went down to 12 percent. It now sits at 62 percent yet tells me it needs a regen. Yet if I clear that fault it d
oesn't come back on for about 5 miles or 5-10 mins. As I say it has all ready regeneration it's self this week.
Multi ecu scan says 62 percent clogged with normal clogging then it gets a high signal from the differential pressure sensor saying it needs a regen immediately.

I should add when this fault appears the car loses its ability to rev high or drive fast, I believe this is called limp mode.

I don't really want to force a regen if I don't have too

Trouble is, regenerating is only properly functional as long as the filter isn't clogged.

Yours is almost certainly partially blocked.

If you hammer the engine, the exhaust gasses will be forced out at higher pressure, helping to clear the blockage and raising the temperature, which is how regeneration works.

It isn't able to clear the blockage by burning the soot alone.

It's a bit like taking prunes to clear a blockage down below

DPF pressure sensor. £60 and 15 minutes to swap it. Fixed mine a treat with similar symptoms. I believe the earlier poster who thought they drift out of calibration.

Couple of observations from driving with a laptop hooked up.

-If everything is working then the regen process works quite happily cruising in 5th at 70mph. You don't need to thrash it to get a regen to work

-In normal driving the DPF temperature won't match a regen, no matter how much you thrash it

Hi Guys hope you can help. My doblo 2008 1.9 jtd diesel went into limp mode last week and then won't start, my usual help wasn't available and I call the (local rip of merchant)garage, he told me he would pick up and return car free of charge call me that afternoon and let me know cost of repair. Call came at 4.30pm and not 1pm as he said and told me the DPF was totally clogged up and this was the problem. I asked if he could he take it off and clean it out and he said he could but not guarantee it would clear. So £500 for a replacement. got the car back and it is running, but he broke the lambda sensor in the process, he said he would replace it at his cost and i said fine so held back £100 until complete. he was supposed to do it last sat but got the wrong part . still waiting tuesday, I went online to source part and finding it hard to get the part, if i have to do it myself, Can anyone tell me why it is so hard to find this part, and how I can source it . will i need to remove sensor and take it to a fiat dealer.

Car in garage the guy said the DPF was blocked up and needed a new one, so when ahead and had it renewed. £500 got it back and was told 02 sensor was now faulty as they had to cut it out old DPF. The said they would replace it at there expense. so got car back until they got part with engine light on. 2 days later went into limp mode could manage up a slight hill. The took it back in told me the oil was contaminated and needed changed. fitted a new o2 sensor got it back with engine light on,EGR fitted with blanking plate and still no running properly. If I remove the plate blocking the EGR I loose power. on my OBD2 multi scan it reads P2002 error code, which I believe is the DPF blockage but this is new. I can't seem to get it to regen either but am afraid to run it on motorway incase it goes back to limp mode. please any feedback or help.

martinfr said:

DPF pressure sensor. £60 and 15 minutes to swap it. Fixed mine a treat with similar symptoms. I believe the earlier poster who thought they drift out of calibration.

Couple of observations from driving with a laptop hooked up.

-If everything is working then the regen process works quite happily cruising in 5th at 70mph. You don't need to thrash it to get a regen to work

-In normal driving the DPF temperature won't match a regen, no matter how much you thrash it

Click to expand...

No one said this would help it regenerate, but it DOES (from experience) help blow out the crud that happens to build up in the small pores they laughingly refer to as an exhaust pipe these days.

I take a lot of cars for the mot test and I always warm them up, then hammer them in 1st, 2nd & 3rd before sitting at 70mph in 4th en route to the test station.

I have never had one fail after this process, but I have driven a few straight there and all the tester has done is take the car outside and rev the car to red line.... After which it has passed. Petrol and diesel.

Yep - Andoo is right - the 'foot-to-the-floor-tune-up' does seem to have many benefits!

Amazing how much fuel we all have to waste to keep our eco cars working...

sounds like EGR valve and not DPF - had exactly the same issues. Blanked off EGR temporarily (until the next MOT), kept foot flat to the floor while in limp mode (and parked) until it got hot. After that it went off like a scolded cat and has been fine ever since.

EGR gets clogged by cheap fuel deposits according to 3 independent mechanics.

legrandefromage said:

EGR gets clogged by cheap fuel deposits according to 3 independent mechanics.

Click to expand...

Apart from the cheap DIY chip fat bio fuel, is there such a thing as process cheap fuel? Thinking the myth of Supermarket fuel. I was talking to a guy who had a high up job at BP and he told me all the tankers fill up in the same localised refineries and if the 'super' fuels are required it's a matter of additives being added when the tankers are being loaded.
That said I have heard of fuelling problems when garages storage tanks have had problems with degeneration, rust, water ingress.

Agree'd, Tesco gets it's fuel from the same refinery as BP.

However, the supermarkets choose not to use additives as it keeps costs down.

I had a Laguna 1.9dci and wife made me fuel up at Tesco all the time so she could get the club card points.

After a while, the engine wasn't happy. I added some Forte injector cleaner and hammered it. All was well.....then it happened again. So I did some digging and changed to BP's wonder diesel. No more hassle and it only adds a couple of quid to the fill bill.

I have never used anything other than BP or perhaps Shell's wonder diesel.

However, I believe it is also the way we drive in the UK that clogs up the works. People buy diesel cars to same money and the vast majority drive so gently, the guage barely moves.

The amount of vehicles I get with "a problem" that turns out to be the fact they need a sound thrashing is quite high.

All I do is check for fault codes, see if anything is broken, then take it for a high speed run up a steep hill.

I don't always charge for fun

I thrash the tits off my cars at 1000 miles a week and the DPF Multijet's EGR clogged up quicker than you can say 'additives' - it came up as 'DPF blocked' despite the fact that the DPF was clear.

The older JTD had its EGR blocked off about 4 years ago. Never had a problem since.

hi guys im new on here, im slightly going off the subject but, i have a 1.3 multijet doblo van 57plate, i find that when the engine is hot and i am at a stop, the oil light comes on and then goes off when i give it any touch of the accelerator . . . is this a common thing? ive only had the van for a week, its my first van i have bought for my business . . . .

gmillz22 said:

hi guys im new on here, im slightly going off the subject but, i have a 1.3 multijet doblo van 57plate, i find that when the engine is hot and i am at a stop, the oil light comes on and then goes off when i give it any touch of the accelerator . . . is this a common thing? ive only had the van for a week, its my first van i have bought for my business . . . .

Click to expand...

Hi, and welcome to FF

that's ( marginally) low oil pressure.. the pressure rises as the rev's go back up,
can be caused by ;

low oil level,
clogged filter,
worn oil pump,
mechanical wear,

do an oil + filter change now..,
charlie - Oxford

Thanks for the reply, i had an oil and filter change aboout a week ago. the light only comes on when the engine is hot and i am idol. as soon as i give it any revs or if i am driving, the light goes off and does not come on whilst driving.
is this dangerous?
would a diagnostic test bring up a record of why the oil light is coming on?

martinfr said:

DPF pressure sensor. £60 and 15 minutes to swap it.

Click to expand...

Appreciate this is an old thread but I get random "no reading from DPF pressure sensor" errors but on test with mutiecu scan I get a nice sensor reading - think a loose connection or faulty sensor. Can you help me locate the sensor and describe briefly how to replace?
Thank you

trolleyed said:

Appreciate this is an old thread but I get random "no reading from DPF pressure sensor" errors but on test with mutiecu scan I get a nice sensor reading - think a loose connection or faulty sensor. Can you help me locate the sensor and describe briefly how to replace?
Thank you

Click to expand...

this is the same engine in a Punto;

http://eper.fiatforum.com/eper/navi...3&WINDOW_ID=1&SGRP_COD=58&SGS_COD=2&DRW_NUM=2

have a look under the car. trace any wires / tubes coming off the exhaust

Charlie

Hi
It is easily found and changed but it is all done from underneath. The black box part of the sensor sits on the bulkhead wall. From memory it is a short flexi pipe which then goes rigid before it gets to the DPF (bit hazy after all this time).
On the link that the other poster provided it would be #2 and #4 .
Good luck!