General Multipla JTD 2003 (115) MAF disconnected and smoking

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General Multipla JTD 2003 (115) MAF disconnected and smoking

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I am having some issues at the moment with the MAF on my Multipla JTD 2003 (115) so I am currently running it with the MAF disconnected, but it does smoke quite a bit if I am a bit heavy on the pedal. I know that when the MAF is disconnected the ECU reverts to a single setting default mode so this may be the reason? Has anyone else experienced this?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I am running with the MAF disconnected at the moment as it runs poorly with it connected and fails to start, but disconnected it starts every time and has more power but smokes a bit if heavy on the pedal.

Please see below for the full story. Thanks.

I am currently having a problem with my MAF (or even EGR ??) on my 2003 JTD Multipla (115). For about the last couple of months the car has been very low on power under 2000 rpm then after that (when the turbo kicks in) it takes off like a rocket, but it all came to a head last week when it started up in the morning but just died instantly, however after many attempts to start, it simply wouldn't so I disconnected the MAF and it started first time but with a bit of smoke, a little lumpy and a bit more smoke if heavy on the pedal when driving (I know that when the MAF is disconnected the ECU reverts to a single setting default mode so this may be the reason?). I then purchased a new MAF (but not Bosch) from ebay (£35) and fitted it and all went wonderfully well after fitting it inc a 30 mile trip, until I tried to start it the next morning and the same problem happened again, so I tried to disconnect the MAF but this time it still wouldn't start until the 3rd attempt so I plugged it back in again but this time I tapped the EGR valve (attempting to free it if stick) and it started but was way down on power again just like it was originally and this had to be done every morning or it would just die instantly after starting, so I tried disconnecting the MAF again and it does start every time (without tapping the EGR) but it does give a bit of smoke out the back if I am a bit heavy on the pedal but I am thinking this is normal as the ECU is on single setting default mode.

I am left now not knowing which way to turn, whether to go and purchase a proper Bosch MAF or try to clean the original, or even to start looking at the EGR.

Any suggestions / help would be appreciated.
 
Has the crankshaft sensor been replaced? When these start to go, the engine suddenly dies and won't start for 5-10 minutes and then starts as if nothing has happened.

T14086's advice about blanking the EGR is sound, if the valve is stuck open. Doesn't sound like a MAF issue, difference between MAF and non-MAF isn't that noticeable, default setting is probably 15c and 29.92hg, so given our weather at the moment about right.
 
Can anyone point me to the best thread on the site which covers EGR blanking?

Your a shepherd, so finding things should be easy.

You only want to temp block it off so a thick piece of cardboard would do (easy to cut with scissors...I'm only allowed the plastic crinkle cut ones) and place between intake & EGR. You only need to undo the 2 x 6mm allen bolts.
 
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Yes, doesn't matter on a temporary basis - on a permanent basis before the EGR valve is best to stop any exhaust gas getting in.

I'd substitute the bottom of large tin for the cardboard, use the existing gaskets as a template for the outline and the hole positioning. If the temporary fix works, you won't be under any pressure to remove the cardboard before it disintegrates and gets sucked through the engine!
 
Thanks for the info.

When you say the "intake", is that the corrugated type pipe on the passenger side of the EGR and not the hard to get to pipe underneath?

That's the easiest place to blank off the EGR- there are two allen bolts holding the corrugated pipe to the EGR valve - just slacken those two off a bit so a gap opens up- no need to undo them completely- cut a bit of paint tin lid (NOT cardboard duh :bang:) into a rectangular shape, sized so it will slip in the gap between the two allen bolts, and tighten them up again. Bend the bit of metal protruding out the top over so it doesnt slip out and disappear when you slacken off the bolts (if you need to) in the future.
 
Just out of curiosity, what's the point of the sealing gaskets when it appears that there is a vent to air (see the two 'slots' in the flange below)? I'm not specifically talking about a blanking gasket, just any gasket at all.


 
Just out of curiosity, what's the point of the sealing gaskets when it appears that there is a vent to air (see the two 'slots' in the flange below)? I'm not specifically talking about a blanking gasket, just any gasket at all.

The slots in your photo are between the solenoid and the egr valve itself, there's no exhaust gases going in that area.
The gaskets are needed between the pieces with the diamond shaped flanges, that's where the extremely hot, cardboard destroying, exhaust gases would go. :D
 
I'd have thought that too, but when I stripped it out for a clean up, that end was full of soot, so there must be exhaust gasses making it that far(?)

DSCN1159.jpg
 
Nice pictures, however they don't portray the effort expended getting those items off!!

When you look at the crud on that just accumulates in the EGR, it does make you think how much you're putting through the inlet manifold and engine.
 
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