Can anyone tell me where the MAP sensor is located on a 115 jtd? I have a problem with the air flow sensor at the moment and just wondered where the MAP sensor was located to check that aswell.
Is there any test you can do on the flow sensor eg, resistance to check if it is serviceable?
Position I am in, flat accel below 2000 rpm. Disconnected air flow sensor and cleaned the plug, gave the sensor a blast with some electrical cleaner. put it back together and now have the eng control message up and the engine symbol. 98,000 on the clock and i guess it is time for a new sensor. Sound reasonable to you guys?

Cheers
Andy

MAP sensor is high up on the back of the cylinder head to the left of the EGT housing.
IIRC there's a single hex retainer bolt, mine was relatively clean but it's relatively easy to get at so worth checking.

Cheers, thanks for that. I will take a look tomorrow, snow permitting!

hi,
yes map sensor is small black bent oblong sensor fitted on with allen key bolt at back of cylinder head just to left hand side of ege valve.
did you check maf sensor by driving car with it unplugged?, if maf is at fault car should run noticably better with maf unplugged.
a large ammount of hesitation on acceleration/flat spots are due to clogged up egr valve (loads of posts on here on how to clean it),
if your egr valve has not been replaced or cleaned by now- it will DEFINATELY need a clean!

Not had a problem with the MAF yet, I did replace the MAF on our old Multi but I didn't notice a huge improvement.
Hesitation and flat spots could also be less than perfect injectors, leaky vacuum tube between turbo and boost actuator or split hose anywhere on the induction.

Hi - Im getting the following error message when connected to diagnostic plug after getting control managment light come on:-

P0235 - Boost Pressure(1)

Boost pressure sensor A circuit malfunction

The reason for this fault is that the ECU has received an invalid signal from
the sensor. The fault is present now. Take appropriate action to fix this sensor
fault. Dashboard warning light was activated for this fault.

I have been advised this is the MAP sensor. I want to take the MAP sensor off to take a look at it.

Can you please confirm I have the location right as per the image? I removed the plastic cover over the engine so I could get to this. Now I must be a complete wuss becuase I can only feel the single hex bolt holding it on with the tips of my fingers and the EGR valve(?) is in the way. What size hex bolt is it? I'm usually pretty good at taking thing apart but this I'm finding a bit of of sod to get too.


Many thanks,

Richard

That's the MAP, take the electrical connector off the EGR and stow it out of the way,
ditto the electrical connector on the MAP,
I found the best tool was a 1/4" drive with a couple of extensions, as you say you can feel the hex bolt head, so get find the right size hex bit, remove it and put it on an extension and put it back.
Carefully (you don't want to lose anything down the back) put the 1/4" driver on and slacken off the bolt, once it's finger tight remove the extensions and spin the bolt off with the hex bit, this makes it easier to catch the bolt and bit.
MAP sensor has a rubber sealing ring so it needs a firm wiggle to get it out.

My 2002 multipla diesel has a star drive I had to make a tool from a 6mm ring spanner and a star bit but I had to cut the bit in half with a grinder then hammered the bit into the ring end hey presto I had the map off and replaced in ten minutes, hopefully a photo will attached, a tip how I found out what but it was by wrapping a bit of duck tape round a finger with the sticky side out pressed the hidden but and made a copy in grease ...great forum best I've been on, cheers Bert.

Forgot to say, replaced the map no more tick over em warnings, fingers crossed...>

Sometimes the existing MAP can be coaxed back to life by cleaning out the inside of it (once you've removed it from the head). A squirt or two of brake cleaner and careful use of a toothpick does the job. It's a bit like removing dirty earwax.... :yuck:.

The same fault can also be flagged if the small diameter plastic pipe to the pressure converter (next to the battery, connected by said pipe to the bellows unit on the turbo) is not holding a vacuum. There's a short length of rubber tube that connects the pressure converter to the pipe that perishes.

Both of the above fixes cost pennies rather than the £40+ for a MAP sensor, so it's worth trying them first.