Just like to add my tuppence worth with regard to accessing the heating control panel lights.
It was just with my model the tips above did not appear to apply.
I've got a "nosejob" Dynamique '05 No aircon.
To expose the top and bottom of the heating control panel.
Prise up the plastic ring around the gear lever. It has metal clasps grip it in place.
The same approach to the speedo cover. (i.e. the "space helmet")
The lip at the top allows you to grip it and persuade it to move.
It's also held by metal clasps.
Pull the middle blower knob out. Also takes a bit of persuading.
Remove the torx screw behind it.
Note that the main wiring to the fog, warning , rear window heating goes to the top of the unit and does not give you much play.
The heating control panel should now be able to be lifted from the bottom up to see the lights.
Two small push in bulbs.
286 INDICATOR DASH CAR AUTO LIGHT BULB BULBS 12V 1.2W SMALL WEDGE
The other two knobs, for the heating level and what part of car the heat goes to, can only be pulled off once the panel has been lifted, as the panel keeps these in.
Which is primarily why I gave some feedback as I nearly wrecked mine trying to pull these out.