Right i have finally got round to start on the doors. The stilo's seal is pretty good and the plastic housing should do a good job its just not very dead due to being made of thin plasic. Todays mission was to fit the MDF baffles that i made the other week and sealed with PVA over the weekend. I used a dremmel type tool after breaking the old ends of the spiders to make the whole ring on the inside smooth to get a snug air tight fit. Then used some deadening material on the in and outside of the housing to give it some weight for the mid woofer to kick off of.
I think that i will add another strip of deadening on the outside of the housing pushing right underneath the speaker grill at the weekend.
So heres a couple of pics.

Stu, why didn't you use the plastic housing as a template and make a double thickness (2 x 18mm) MDF baffle? Much more rigid and less chance of resonance. If you snip the locating lug off the back of the housing, you can lay it straight on top of the MDF and draw round it too Are you'r going to protrude from the door cards? Mine sit behind the standard grilles for that stealthy look

The grills do slightly protrude yes i will try and dig out a pic at some point. I was going to make it out of mdf but the way they sit in those houses is awesome and then they fire straight into the cabin rather than moving air behind the door card causing vibrations so I think that there is more to gain by strengthening and reducing resonance of the housings. Also if the speaker sits further away from the wall/outer skin the air gets more chance to spread into the doors therefore reducing the resonance of the whole enclosure. (In my head anyway lol)
I may be wrong but seriously i can notice the difference in Mid range quality straight away.
And trust me the deadening that loudboy sells is pretty damn dense the plastic thing now weighs more than just MDF would do

Good stuff! If i ever get round to it I want to bring speaker rings out flush with the door cards so that no sound is "lost" inside the doorcards.

The stilo doors are a dream to deaden (once you work out how to get the inner skin off and the glass out )

Taking shape vol... i wanna see a finished project of ur work when your done (and chance of pictures once completed?) as i know u kno what ur talking about when it comes to I.C.E releated questions.


Tom.:slayer:

I know a few people who would beg to differ with that comment, but im learning. Next step is deadening teh doors which is easier said than done with the stuff that i have it takes about 10 strikes to cut and when you have odd shapes to cut is going to be a pain in the rear end.

I used a good sharp pair of tin snips to cut the sound dampening, the stuff I got was the same took forever to cut with conventional blades :bang:

volxstu said:

I may be wrong but seriously i can notice the difference in Mid range quality straight away.

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Wait til you soundproof your doors properly. Those Elates can produce straight up ridiculous midbass when installed right

edit - Oh and looking good mate, keep it up

Well its taken me long enough what with paying for the car, kickstarting my career and liking a good old party in my younger days. Now im older, a bit more established and just plain boring lol, i can make a start on a proper install.
I decided against using FG because i dont believe FG has any of the qualities that i am after. Im not trying to make a sealed enclosure the stilo as standard does that itself, its just dead weight that i need. FG will not add that much weight and holds no real anti resonance qualities. Tap a 4mm thick sheet of FG then tap a 4mm sheet of bitumen based deadening :slayer:

Fibreglass resin loaded with steel shot is supposed to be a good deadening combo

Im sure that your right but surely using a metal increases vibration and changes the pitch, hence using silk dome tweets rather than titanium.

Ask that question on TA !!! Some of the more hardcore SQ competitors use all steel baffles!!!

Right so a little update on my front end
After hours and hours of planning i have decided to door a front end that can handle a full range of sound. Mainly so i can do a guide as i see that a lot of people would like a suitable alternative to using a sub and i believe that this can be done all with front end components.
So far the line up is looking like this.

RE XXX V1 6.5" Mids

DLS 2.5" Mids

Altec Lansing 1" Tweets

DLS A7 amp (Running 2.5" Mids and Tweets)

2nd Amp Either Elemental Designs Ninex2 or Focal Solid 1 (6.5" Mids)

Rear fill

Amp JL e2150

Components

So it has taken me an absolute age to get this sorted and i have been playing around with using the Components that i have now on an amp running flat from the amp with the Bass boost function Active.
I cant turn the volume up very loud and running the whole components like this does put the amp under quite a bit of strain but im sure with the correct Cap's i can get this to work. Then i will need to sound deaden to an absolute anal level as hitting so low in the doors is causing massive flex on the inner skin of the doors and then i am in the process of designing a dual chamber style port for the door tuned pretty high the first port being around 150hz and then who knows for the second chamber pot
As i have said i have tried this to some degree and everybody who has heard it has asked me where i borrowed a sub from and that is using a less than ideal set up :slayer:

Any comments are welcome

Volxstu

Completely lost me on the door tuning!

Deaden the funk out of it, use Dynaliner too, see how you get on there first.

paulbfd said:

Completely lost me on the door tuning!

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Aiy i have, you and the rest of the sane world I believe that its possible.

Well, I can't be sure that all this time won't be wasted.......

err..sorry to drop the bomb here

Do you care to expand on that

Right so i though that i will show you some of the things that i am going to use. ATM i only have the 2.5" Mids with me so here it is

That the one with the sealed back?

Yup