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Old 05-04-2014   #1
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Brake Bleeding

Morning everyone.
Can anyone tell me the correct sequence for bleeding the brakes on my 2000 Ducato 2.8 TD, or doesn't it matter?
Do I need to pump quickly, slowly, keep the peddle down when tightening the nipple etc, etc.


also does anyone know the bore size on the rear pistons as I need to change as well.


Found this on flee bay, would this be ok.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3606732218...84.m1423.l2648


Thanks.
Mike
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Old 05-04-2014   #2
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Re: Brake Bleeding

When I replaced my pipes, the advice I got was not to bother pumping etc, but to 'gravity bleed' i.e. top up reservoir, open bleed nipple and wait (& wait!)

While this went against my previous practice and experience, it did work (perhaps because on a van the reservoir is considerably higher than the brakes)

Plus this method only needs one person.
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Old 06-04-2014   #3
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Can anyone tell me the correct sequence for bleeding the brakes on my 2000 Ducato 2.8 TD, or doesn't it matter?
Do I need to pump quickly, slowly, keep the peddle down when tightening the nipple etc, etc.


also does anyone know the bore size on the rear pistons as I need to change as well.


Found this on flee bay, would this be ok.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3606732218...84.m1423.l2648


Thanks.
Mike __________________
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Old 06-04-2014   #4
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Re: Brake Bleeding

You will need to release the bleed nipples first,make sure the socket or spanner is a really tight fit.
Slightly tighten the nipple,then it will release easier.
You start with the furthest away from the master cylinder.
Pump slowly,letting the pedal come up slowly.
Reasonable pressure on the pedal,while somebody releases the bleed nipple.
When it reaches the floor,tighten the nipple.
There are bleeding kits that fit onto the tyre valve.
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Old 07-04-2014   #5
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Thanks Oneill, I have a so called one man bleed kit, I guess this will be ok as hopefully it won't let any air back in when I release the peddle?


Also does anyone know the bore size on the rear pistons as I need to change as well.


Found this on flee bay, would this be ok.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3606732218...84.m1423.l2648


Thanks.
Mike
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Old 09-04-2014   #6
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Re: Brake Bleeding

I changed one of the Rear Wheel Cylinders (along with new Shoes) on my 2004 2.3JTD Motorhome a couple of weeks ago.
Got a new Cylinder from the local Motor Factors for about 13.
Just measured the old Cylinder bore and I get it to 27mm.

Edit
Looking at Ebay they seem to have changed the cylinder in 2002, so not much help to you, sorry.
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Last edited by Trooper2000; 09-04-2014 at 09:04.
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Old 09-04-2014   #7
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Re: Brake Bleeding

A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.
If you cannot machine-bleed and you really must insist on doing it yourself, then DO NOT push the brake pedal to the floor.
Only push it down as far as it would normally go when braking...maybe a about a quarter of the way down, before nipping the bleed nipple back up and allowing pedal to rise again. It takes longer, but avoids master cylinder bore damage.

Reason is that, especially once a van is a few years old, the part of the master cylinder rod that is further out than the normal brake pedal travel bit, gets rusty, and rough. Ramming your foot to the floor time after time forces that rough part through the bore and seals, with a great propensity to score them. Rectification is not cheap.
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Old 10-04-2014   #8
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Thanks BGD for your advice, I have one of those one man brake bleed kits which has a non return valve at the end.
I shall take your advice about not pushing the peddle to the floor, I didn't realise that and have been guilty of doing that in the past with other vehicles. Would this be a suitable replacement rear wheel cylinder do you know?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3606732218...84.m1423.l2649


Cheers
Mike
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