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Old 12-07-2019   #1
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Brake Failure

So I was turning the car (1.9 mJTD 16V manual) around when I got home from work and after I'd reversed there was a grinding from the off-sie rear. A quick look before going in for my tea it seemed the lining was worn away. This seemed strange as there was plenty the last time I checked. A closer look showed that the lining has detached from the steel backing plate. Obviously can't be driven at all as the loose pad could lock the wheel up without warning. No stock locally so have ordered a set of pads and disks online, they should be here Tuesday. Good news is they were on clearance so only £47.13 for the lot. So a little job on Tuesday afternoon.
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Old 14-07-2019   #2
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Re: Brake Failure

Pad lining material separating from the pad backing plate must be a very rare occurrence indeed (on any brake pad/vehicle) and something I've never come across.

Enjoy your Tuesday afternoon
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Old 14-07-2019   #3
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Quote Originally Posted by s130 View Post
Pad lining material separating from the pad backing plate must be a very rare occurrence indeed (on any brake pad/vehicle) and something I've never come across.

Enjoy your Tuesday afternoon
Seen it a few times.

Friend had it last week on an S.max

Often occurrs on seldom used vehicles.. or pressure washed ones.

The steel pad mount area corrodes.. these blisters prise the friction pad beyond the
Grip of its adhesive.

Often results in a locked wheel..!!

Locked front wheel at 60mph.. on a bravo.

Seen shoes do the same.. the loose lining will climb over the good one.. giving a very effective brake
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Last edited by varesecrazy; 14-07-2019 at 11:43.
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Old 16-07-2019   #4
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Re: Brake Failure

So I got a set of pads and disks on clearance from an ebay seller for £47 and the good news is they are the right ones. Then there was the bad news. While eLearn clearly says to turn the pistons anti-clockwise to wind them in, ď1. Use the tool to turn the brake calliper piston anticlockwise to move it back in its housing.Ē the piston only turned about 1/8th of a turn with the application of a fair bit of force before stopping. Measurement with a digital calliper over the ľ turn it would move easily clearly showed the piston moved out when turned anti-clockwise. It took a lot of force to turn it clockwise and I was disturbed to see a small amount of fluid seep from under the boot. Nothing else to do but carry on, but sure enough after assembly I had a soft pedal and leaking calliper. I donít know if I damaged the seal by turning it anti-clockwise, there was corrosion deeper in the cylinder or the hydraulic circuit was closed and I blew the seal. Maybe the ABS or hill-holder had closed the circuit, but eLearn gives nor info on that. As a precaution next time Iíll crack the bleed nipple before winding the piston in. So Iím now waiting for a recon calliper from Eurocarparts at £142 (less £35 deposit for the old calliper). Fortunately it was the right hand side that leaked as the left hand callipers donít seem to be available. You can get a new piston and seal kit for under £20 but I donít have proper facilities to clean the calliper and work on it. Iíve also never done one of the modern rear units with internal threaded adjuster and donít have time to mess about with it.
Calliper arrives in two days so Iíll do the left side tomorrow.
Nearly forgot, the lining had separated due to rust.

Robert G8RPI
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Old 16-07-2019   #5
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Quote Originally Posted by g8rpi View Post
So I got a set of pads and disks on clearance from an ebay seller for £47 and the good news is they are the right ones. Then there was the bad news. While eLearn clearly says to turn the pistons anti-clockwise to wind them in, ď1. Use the tool to turn the brake calliper piston anticlockwise to move it back in its housing.Ē the piston only turned about 1/8th of a turn with the application of a fair bit of force before stopping. Measurement with a digital calliper over the ľ turn it would move easily clearly showed the piston moved out when turned anti-clockwise. It took a lot of force to turn it clockwise and I was disturbed to see a small amount of fluid seep from under the boot. Nothing else to do but carry on, but sure enough after assembly I had a soft pedal and leaking calliper. I donít know if I damaged the seal by turning it anti-clockwise, there was corrosion deeper in the cylinder or the hydraulic circuit was closed and I blew the seal. Maybe the ABS or hill-holder had closed the circuit, but eLearn gives nor info on that. As a precaution next time Iíll crack the bleed nipple before winding the piston in. So Iím now waiting for a recon calliper from Eurocarparts at £142 (less £35 deposit for the old calliper). Fortunately it was the right hand side that leaked as the left hand callipers donít seem to be available. You can get a new piston and seal kit for under £20 but I donít have proper facilities to clean the calliper and work on it. Iíve also never done one of the modern rear units with internal threaded adjuster and donít have time to mess about with it.
Calliper arrives in two days so Iíll do the left side tomorrow.
Nearly forgot, the lining had separated due to rust.

Robert G8RPI
Shame about the growing bill.. but could easily have been far worse
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Old 17-07-2019   #6
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Re: Brake Failure

So while waiting for the new RH caliper I tackled the LH rear pads and disks this evenng. It went a lot better. I can confirm that on the 1.9l 16V both rear calliper pistons must be turned clockwise to retract the pistons. This is the opposite of what eLearn says. I understand the 2.2 petrol and 2.4 diesel use the same callipers.
I'm pretty certain that I blew the seal on the other side by winding in the piston without opening the bleed nipple. I opened the nipple on the RH side and piton turned without excessive force but if I closed the nipple it locked up. It seems the ABS unit does not let the flui return to the tank. Seems obvous in hindsight, but it's surprising eLearn does not say anything about it. They give detailed instructions for other things that are obvious.
New calliper tomorrow.

Robert G8RPI.
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Old 18-07-2019   #7
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Re: Brake Failure

ARRGH,
Picked up new calliper from ECP, took old one off completely, offered up the new one and it's the wrong size
I should have known when I noticed at the counter that the box had been opened previously. Looks like its the one for the 8V, slightly smaller piston.
So I took the piston out of the old one and it looks OK so I've ordered a seal kit (41mm) biggred4u on ebay and will give rebuilding a go. It will have to wait a few days as I have to go overseas for work.

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Old 20-07-2019   #8
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Re: Brake Failure

So the seal kit arrived today and as SWMBO was out gettting her hair done I used the kitchen to do the rebuild. I didn't touch the seals on the handbrake / auto adjuster so job was easy. Just the main piston seal and dust cover.
Not put it back o the car yet though.


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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #9
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Re: Brake Failure

Back from a work trip (I've no time for people complaining about the heat were I was the car said 50deg C when I went for lunch and I was out in the heat part of the time) and fitte the re-built caliper today. All went well. I primed the cyliner with fluid using a syringe and with a full tank on the master cylinder gravity did most of the bleeding.
All working fine now.

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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #10
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Re: Brake Failure

Quote Originally Posted by g8rpi View Post
All working fine now.
Robert.
A result then. Just what we all like.
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