Technical Anti-Pollution filter blocked
- Thread starter Holdo15
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Technical Anti-Pollution filter blocked
Hi Holdo15,
My first guess would be the usual DPF / EGR problem that all of the diesels tend to suffer from should be the first thing to eliminate.
If you've had the car for a while and know for certain that the oil change indicator has been reset using software every time the oil's been changed then you might just need to take the car on a long drive on an uncrowded road where you can get the engine up to temperature and keep it there for a while. This should allow the dpf to regenerate (burn off all the stuff that builds up inside it using extra fuel) and might clear the problem.
If the oil change indicator hasn't been getting reset then you might have a dpf problem. The easiest way to check is downloading the free version of multiecuscan onto a suitable laptop and buying a VAG KKL cable off ebay (about £10 - £20 with a standard usb cable with what looks like a TV scart interface on one end) and plugging it in to the interface socket that lives behind some cables in the fusebox next to where your right knee is when you are driving. This will give you loads of information and tell you how many times the car's been told that oil's been changed. This is very important because if it hasn't been getting reset even if it's been changed regularly eventually the regen facility shuts down and the dpf will block properly.
Is the car already down on power / stuttering / spluttering around 1800 - 2200 revs? If you could have an EGR problem instead / as well. If so it's not a major issue as they can be bought from many places these days for £70 - £90 and take about 30 mins to change. Whilst you are at it also buy a swirl mod egr gasket off ebay for about £4 and fit it when you are refitting the egr and your car should be transformed.
My first guess would be the usual DPF / EGR problem that all of the diesels tend to suffer from should be the first thing to eliminate.
If you've had the car for a while and know for certain that the oil change indicator has been reset using software every time the oil's been changed then you might just need to take the car on a long drive on an uncrowded road where you can get the engine up to temperature and keep it there for a while. This should allow the dpf to regenerate (burn off all the stuff that builds up inside it using extra fuel) and might clear the problem.
If the oil change indicator hasn't been getting reset then you might have a dpf problem. The easiest way to check is downloading the free version of multiecuscan onto a suitable laptop and buying a VAG KKL cable off ebay (about £10 - £20 with a standard usb cable with what looks like a TV scart interface on one end) and plugging it in to the interface socket that lives behind some cables in the fusebox next to where your right knee is when you are driving. This will give you loads of information and tell you how many times the car's been told that oil's been changed. This is very important because if it hasn't been getting reset even if it's been changed regularly eventually the regen facility shuts down and the dpf will block properly.
Is the car already down on power / stuttering / spluttering around 1800 - 2200 revs? If you could have an EGR problem instead / as well. If so it's not a major issue as they can be bought from many places these days for £70 - £90 and take about 30 mins to change. Whilst you are at it also buy a swirl mod egr gasket off ebay for about £4 and fit it when you are refitting the egr and your car should be transformed.
You need to get this oil change reset done ASAP and possibly have a force regeneration of your DPF done AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.
I seem to remember this from previous posts.
Few fiat or independent garages seem to know, or are able to reset. There are 2 counters, one for service mileage, one for oil condition.
If the oil condition is not reset, after about 20,000 the DPF will not be regenerated, as the oil is judged not good enough to stand the temperature, at least 600c down the exhaust.
Few fiat or independent garages seem to know, or are able to reset. There are 2 counters, one for service mileage, one for oil condition.
If the oil condition is not reset, after about 20,000 the DPF will not be regenerated, as the oil is judged not good enough to stand the temperature, at least 600c down the exhaust.
It's well worth searching for DPF on here - I know Dave managed to jetwash his out, so that's a backup if the forced regen fails.
I doubt any indie garage knows about the reset (and its importance). I get mine done at a garage, reset it myself. Ebay + £10 should get you a cable (provided you have a laptop).
I doubt any indie garage knows about the reset (and its importance). I get mine done at a garage, reset it myself. Ebay + £10 should get you a cable (provided you have a laptop).
Unless you've been doing an unusually high number of short drives around town, which would also cause this problem, I'd suggest that in this instance at least it's probably worthwhile taking it to a dealer who can do the oil indicator reset (check before you book it in and confirm it on the handover sheet before you part with your keys) and then taking it for a long drive to see if that clears the warning message as the minimum. If it was mine though I'd get the forced regen done at the same time. And note on the handover sheet that the forced regen was to be done after the oil counter gets reset so there's no debate if anything goes wrong.
Good luck.
That'll give you time to get the software and cable without risking doing potentially expensive damage in the meantime.
Good luck.
That'll give you time to get the software and cable without risking doing potentially expensive damage in the meantime.
I have a friend who has the software and cable so he's gonna have a look. Along with the change oil indicator flashing I have had a hole in the flexible part of the exhaust which is getting fixed this week, hope it wasn't that either. I always make sure I give the car a good thrashing and I've just been on a 3500 mile trip to Italy and back (£450 in diesel which I though was impressive) so ill be surprised if it was that, but anything is possible. I sure do appreciate everyone's help though 
It's very possible that the hole in the flexi was stopping it getting hot enough to regen. Due to the resistance of the partially blocked DPF, the hole in the flexi is a much easier route for the hot gases.
