required/recommended tools

• trolley jack
• axle stands
• a good socket set metric mainly but imperial sizes are handy for rusted/worn nuts/bolts
• set of taps(1.25 thread pitch) to clean and recut threads
• breaker bar-these allow you to get leverage on tight nuts/bolts but also extend the life of your ratchets as you are not putting huge torque through the mechanisms
• pliers
• adjustable spanner
• mole grips
• screw drivers
• torx bits for the likes of the dash screws
• allen keys or as i prefer sockets.eg 12mm for the sump plug & 13mm for head bolts
• 30mm socket for the rear hub nut(breaker bar will be needed here)
• torque wrench
• spanners both open ended and ring
• hammer
• rubber mallet

• you dont have to spend mad money on tools and can build a set up gradually.
• Lidl often does cheap tools such as screwdriver sets for £5
• you can get a set of 3 molegrips for £5 in B&Q
• halfords socket sets are decent enough for the money and the pro sets have lifetime warrenties

nut/bolt sizes


misc'

wheel bolts - 19mm
taps with a 1.25 thread pitch to clean/cut threads


interior

Removing front Seats - 6mm allen key
Rear seat squab 13mm socket
Rear seat backrest 10 or 11mm socket
Seat Belt Bolts - 17mm Socket/Spanner

Rear Seat Bolts - 13mm Spanner/Socket

engine

899cc Head removal:

13mm spanner / socket for bob bolts
10mm spanner for TB mounting bolts
4mm Allen key for rocker cover bolts
15mm socket / spanner for rocker pedestal bolts
17mm socket / spanner for head bolts

manifold nuts 13mm (inlet and zorst)

Rear engine mount holding bolts, 13mm

Head Bolts 13mm Hex or 1/2" (If head of bolt is buggered - but dont expect if back!!)

Gearbox drain plug 8mm hex drive, allen key recommended as is difficult to access with a key type drive!



Engine to gearbox bolts 19mm socket
Gearbox linkage ball joints - flat bladed screw driver with at least a 7mm blade, fine nosed pliers (strong), plumbers wrench

sump plug,gear box filler and drain plug size : 12mm hex(though ghost found a 14mm on his 1242!)



Head Bolts 13mm Hex or 1/2" (If head of bolt is buggered - but dont expect if back!!)

Gearbox drain plug 8mm hex drive, allen key recommended as is difficult to access with a key type drive!


engine/gearbox mounts

Rear gearbox mount:
19mm socket and spanner (for gearbox to mount bracket)
17mm socket and spanner (for center mount bolt)
13mm socket and a small extention (for other 2 mount bolts)

Engine to gearbox bolts 19mm socket
Gearbox linkage ball joints - flat bladed screw driver with at least a 7mm blade, fine nosed pliers (strong), plumbers wrench

Rear engine mount holding bolts, 13mm


brakes

brake retaining bolt - 12mm

Cailper Bolts - 17mm Socket/Spanner

Bleed Nipples - 8mm Spanner/Socket (I found a ring spanner was better)

Front Brake pads (renewal) fine nosed pliers, hammer, 4mm drift

bodywork

Changing Front Wiper Linkage 10mm, 12mm and 13mm socket/spanner.

Arch Liner Bolts - 8mm Socket/Spanner

Bumper slide-in captive nuts and bolts (the big square rusty things that always seize up) 13mm socket

boot lock mechanism - 10mm

fuel & exhaust

Idle control valve - torx t20.

Throttle body, allen key - 5mm

spark plugs - 10mm plug socket

air filter housing nuts (sporting) 10mm

manifold nuts 13mm (inlet and zorst)

cooling system

Robot-fitted jubilee clips (spring type not the crimped ones used on heater matrix bleed valve) 3mm-wide flat bladed screwdriver to remove, good-quality plumber's wrench or fine nosed pliers to re-fit.


Thermostat Remval - 10mm spanner/socket

starting & charging

battery clamps 10mm

• Starter Motor removal and refitting on Cinq and Sei SPI Sportings: -
  
• 10mm Spanner/Socket - removes the negative lead/undos one of the wires on the starter
  
• 13mm Spanner & Socket - for the three mounting bolts that hold in the starter motor/undoes the other wire on the starter.
  
• NB The Haynes manual says to remove the front pipe to gain access, you DO NOT need to

steering & suspension

Rear Hub Nut - 30mm Socket/Torque Wrench/210Nm
Front Hub Nut - 30 Socket/Torque Wrench/240Nm

Rear Radius Arms/Front Suspension Nuts + Bolts - 19mm Nut/Socket/Spanner

Track Rod End Ball Joint Nut - 17mm Socket/Spanner - Ball Joint Splitter as well

Lower Wishbone Ball Joint Nut - 17mm Socket/Spanner - Ball Joint Splitter as well

Front strut to body nuts 13mm socket
Strut to top mount nut 17mm socket and 18" stilson, workbench and spring compressors
Strut to hub carrier 19mm Socket for nut, 18mm socket for bolt, plusgas, wire brush, aluminium or nylon hammer, replace M12 fine pitch nylocks.

Rear trailling-arm bush renewal. Cling film & elastic band (over master cylinder reservoir), 13 & 11mm split-ring brake spanners & mole grips to undo brake flexies, 19mm socket & 19mm ratchet spanner to remove trailling arm, 5mm drill bit & drill to drill out rubber core of bush, 18tpi hacksaw, workbench, 3/8" cold chisel & engineer's hammer to remove steel bush outer, 300mm of m12 studding & some 1/4" steel plate to make a press to put new bush in.

Front track control arm bush renewal. Ball-joint splitter 13 15 & 17mm sockets to remove ARB & TCA. Workbench & 24" stilson to remove existing rear bush (they twist off). 5mm drill bit & drill to drill out rubber core of bush, 18tpi hacksaw, workbench, 3/8" cold chisel & engineer's hammer to remove steel front bush outer.


18,19mm spanners for Hub-Strut Joint
17mm spanner for brake calipers plus Track Rod End and Wishbone balljoints and balljoint remover for above,
30mm socket and a bloody huge extension bar (Hub Nut)

Changing front hub bearings

Ratchet, big master bar, 17, 18, 19, 32mm sockets and spanners, big hammer, small punch or something to remove the stake from the hub nut