1242 is now fitted, but there is a major problem, the battery wasnt disconnected, so thought we should be ok with the immobilizer as I dont have the red key, well it seems i have broken another egg whilst making my omellette.

Got the engine all fitted, fluids filled, got in, put in blue key, turned the key, code light stays light, the engine turns over, but no start, and the code light never goes off, after a couple of cranks, the engine fault light also lights

Im guessing I either need a red key, or a chip to bypass the immobilizer. But the engine fault light coming on does that indicate there is a problem somewhere else, I have a suspicion about the crank position sensor as the wire looks chaffed. So am replacing that as well.

All suggestions as to what a good plan of attack or words of consolation, would be greatly received.

On a positive note, the csc marmite manifold complete with machined spacer is all fitted, and I do have pictures, just ran out of time last night to get them off the camera.

But if your not replacing the ecu then why would the light stay on

Maybe try dissconnecting the battery for 30 min? You shouldn't need the red key.

Once I was doing some work on the sei and left the keys in the ignition for about 2 hours, then when i came to start the code wouldn’t go out. I disconnected the bat for 1 min then tried again and it worked straight away.

Thats encouraging news, thanks guys, will try that tonight when i get home. I hope it works, as i cant wait to try it with its new engine.

its all an excuse for use to tell him to but a mckrich

if it dont work its a good idea though, quicker and more torque. ive got one on the way although i have no engine in the car yet

I have contacted McKric, but am awaiting an answer, I know that is one route round the problem. I just want my new engine to go brum.

Is the ECU still the original?

If so then I'd say some plug is lying unconnected somewhere, likely in your excitement to try it out you missed something.

So this is why you been quiet of the forum then?! How did the swap go?

Liam

All plugs are connected, I have on order with my local factors the crank position sensor, as the wire no this looked frayed. All plugs are conencted, checked that through, wrote down what I disconnected, and then ticked them off as i reconnected.

The code light being on, would be an immobilizer problem?

when i transfered the turbo engine over from red to imola cinq i had the code light on and car wouldn't start, turned out to be a loose earth at back of engine near coil packs.

Check all earths are secure as the ECU is very sensitive to having a good earth.

Forgot to say it took me a while to find this problem but i could get the car to start by unplugging the immobiliser and plugging it back in, its located behind fuse box and has two multi plugs going into it, this allowed the car to run for aprox ten minus before code light cam on again and cut car out stopping fuel pump from working tho car woudl turn over.

I have checked both of the earths, the one from the coil pack to the back of the head, and the lead that goes to the gearbox, they all checkout with my multimeter, so earths are all corrrect. I have found that the charcoal cannister purge valve and reversing light had been swapped round, that is now all correct. Tried disconnecting the battery for a minute, reconnected and still nothing. The code light stays on, does not clear, tried disconnecting the connectors on the code block and still nothing. There is no noise as the fuel pump pressurizes, so im thinking the immobilizer is still saying no. Have sent payment to mcrich for chip, so hopefully when that arrives, it will start. Any other ideas greetfully received.

Try leaving it off for more than a min, try at least 30 min

Mckcritch chip is your best and cheapest option, you could always fork out £250 for ecu remapping?? they will sort it out for you, plus some garages do a call out remapping, again slightly more expensive but will definatly sort you out in the long run and you will gain more from that 1242!!

check the fuse near the ECU, i think its a 20a. Its in a yellow fuse holder near the main relays behind the ECU.

Where were the keys during the conversion Benji?

T'is a strange one, well all make mistakes even the best (not me LOL) but you come across as quite spanner handy so maybe there is a gypsy curse at work or those little Italian electrical gremlins!

Liam

The keys were hung on there hook in the garage i never leave keys in cars when im working on them, its too easy for an accident. The only key used was an uncoded key, which i had cut to be able to lock doors, without risking my coded key. This was used to remove the steering lock, to enable the hub carriers to be moved to extract the drive shafts.

I hope it is only gremlins in the electrics, but its slightly frusrtating, but it will sort and then the fun will begin.

the gypsy curse is reserved for my car. its currently residing in my mapping!

fuse checked, all ok, with that.

also double checked the earths, all buzz back to the ecu mounting bracket/earth point so no problem there.

Any more clues?

The antenna that sits around the ignition barrel plugged in ok.....?

Clutching at straws now...

You got a red key Benji? Have you tried recoding the keys?

Liam

Badger_Benji said:

as I dont have the red key,

Click to expand...

im guessing not liam