Technical Steering 'dead zone', rack on it's way out?

[Eklipze3k]

Have just driven the Sei for the first time in months - round trip to Wakefield and back. There is a huge dead zone in the steering - about 15-20 degrees either way and a lot of knocking from the front going over bumps or potholes, made for a very, errr, interesting trip!!
The track rod ends (is that their name?) were the only bit that was disconnected during the clutch change and I don't think we got close enough to any other steering components to have been able to misalign them but is there anything I can check/adjust, or does it sound like the rack has had it and needs replaced?

 

[Eklipze3k]

The nylock nuts that we removed (that hold the ball joints into the tie rod ends) were threaded, went to B&Q and got some new ones but just cannot get them tight enough as the whole assembly keeps spinning, I don't have anything I can use to separate the ball joints either so, grr

 

[rallycinq]

The track rod ends are tapered so you need to apply severe downward presssure as you tighten them.

Jack handle will do the job lovely.

Why did you undo them to do the clutch?

Cheers

SPD

 

[Eklipze3k]

The track rod ends are tapered so you need to apply severe downward presssure as you tighten them.

Jack handle will do the job lovely.

Why did you undo them to do the clutch?

Cheers

SPD

Followed the guide on here
Will try the jack handle, where to wedge the other end?

 

[ycming]

Ermm see the nut you got from B&Q you sure it is at 1.25 pitch ? Am sure when i was looking for those nuts, B&Q didn't stock anything that fine!

Unless you have new track rod ends and they are threaded differently.

Ming

 

[rallycinq]

Followed the guide on here
Will try the jack handle, where to wedge the other end?

Under the engine/gearbag/driveshaft.

Cheers

SPD

 

[rallycinq]

Ermm see the nut you got from B&Q you sure it is at 1.25 pitch ? Am sure when i was looking for those nuts, B&Q didn't stock anything that fine!

Unless you have new track rod ends and they are threaded differently.

Ming

Thats a good call.

Cheers

SPD

 

[Pep0]

I normally put the old ones back with some locktight, I do clean the nuts and threads.

Noel

 

[Eklipze3k]

Aww man, don't tell me things like that!!! :bang: They might be new (I doubt it) but the nut threads on no problem right up the nylon, but that's when the whole ball starts to spin as I can't get enough pressure on it, even with the jack handle which btw, I have no idea how your going to get downward pressure on the rod end by wedging the handle under the engine Are we talking about the same thing?

 

[rallycinq]

Aww man, don't tell me things like that!!! :bang: They might be new (I doubt it) but the nut threads on no problem right up the nylon, but that's when the whole ball starts to spin as I can't get enough pressure on it, even with the jack handle which btw, I have no idea how your going to get downward pressure on the rod end by wedging the handle under the engine Are we talking about the same thing?

Yup, thats the gearbag end. If your handle isn't long enough (sorry Carrie) put it under the driveshaft.

Cheers

SPD

 

[Eklipze3k]

Oohhhh, I think I get you now - less wedging, more fulcruming?

 

[rallycinq]

Oohhhh, I think I get you now - less wedging, more fulcruming?

If thats a word, then thats it.

Cheers

SPD

 

[arc]

Followed the guide on here
Will try the jack handle, where to wedge the other end?

for reference, don't do that again. you just need to take the two bolts holding the hub carrier to the strut

 

[craigb244]

also make sure there is no wd40/grease/anything on the taper. clean it with solvent and it will tighten up with little pressure on the rod end.

 

[Andy Monty]

also make sure there is no wd40/grease/anything on the taper. clean it with solvent and it will tighten up with little pressure on the rod end.

:yeahthat:

they did get a soaking with Ferrisol when we took it apart that did cross my mind today whilst at work

 

[Eklipze3k]

Realised what the problem was and can't believe I hadn't spotted it, passenger side was OK first of all, so I'd only been messing with the driver's side, but the rubber had split round the back and I didn't realise until all the goo started oozing out So gonna be a new track rod end methinks, which I understand are a complete arse to change, so that'll be fun In the meantime, I found a vice in the garage which applied enough pressure for me to be able to tighten it (hopefully) enough to not scare the crap out of me every time I drive it.
Will remember not to ever take them off though now unless I absolutely have to, what a nightmare, has felt like driving on sheet ice the last couple of days

 

[RichardBradford]

Hi,
just had these off on mine for CV joint/bearing change and didn't have this problem. You could try tapping the top of the track rod end with the base of a hammer handle to make the taper grip a bit or use the old or non-lock nuts to tighten it up and then undo the nut, without breaking the taper's hold, and put on the new lock nut.
Would be cautious about using nuts from B&Q though as even if the right size these are mostly designed for domestic use and may not be a high enough grade of steel for car use. Given how bad it would be for a track rod end to come off while being driven I personally would stick with the old nuts and just use some threadlock to make sure they stay in place.
Good luck with it all!

 

[Andy Monty]

get the end then go to the local fast fit type place and ask for a re-track then produce some jaffa cakes and ask nicely


they usually are ok to undo (providing you have the tools (2 pairs of stilsons help if they are really stuck)

but its the subsequent tracking that needs doing