Hi

I have the following issues with my 1.1 Sporting Cinq

1.) Heat shield around Cat has snapped and rattles, been told its pointless be welding it as it will snap again. Could i use jubilee clips and is so what size would i need, Its about 7" round i guess. Also was told to use washers on the screws etc but when i looked today there are no screws just welding either end. Is this normal ?

2.) Steering feels loose (as if i have power steering) also car shakes a little bit in 3rd/4th and 5th gears. Any ideas, Tyre pressures are fine, Brakes were bleed last week.

3.) I want to change oil in gear box as i dont think it's ever been done, Is this an easy thing to do ? just locate drain plug,drain and re-fill right. any special tools i need and where am i looking for this drain plug ??

4.) There seems to be a lot of new clean oil around the underneath of the car. Looking from top seems fine, Looking from underneath there is a lot of oil on oil filter. Can't physically see a leak and oil is still at maximum and clean on dipstick (Was changed in april). Any ideas what this could be and where i should be looking for a leak.

These are probs all minor issues but Fiance is new to driving and it her car so is a little worried, hence i have spent a lot of time sorting out minor things so she feels happier etc. she loves the car but just gets worried easy.

Thanks in advance for your help guys/girls.

majik said:

2.) Steering feels loose (as if i have power steering) also car shakes a little bit in 3rd/4th and 5th gears. Any ideas, Tyre pressures are fine, Brakes were bleed last week.

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discs and pads worn, debris caught in tread of tyres, hit a kerb recently and damaged/bent wheel?

Complete new rear set (Shoes/Pads and cyclinder in April). I don't drive car much so will ask misses but she said she was driving fine then steering became very loose.

Is this is the problem getting all wheels re-balance should solve it right. I will for trye debris etc while im working on it this weekend. Front brakes were checked a week agao when the bleed them and was told they are fine.

With each front wheel in the air in turn, grab top and bottom and waggle to see if anything is loose. While the suspension is on full drop, check the top mounts are intact.

If it is the Cat's own outer casing thats loose, then yes a large worm drive clip, or you can join them together to make a bigger one.

Hex head wrench set needed for the gearbag oil. The drain is between the bottom back mount sides, the filler in the front face.

Clean all the oil off the engine and try and work out where its coming from on a dry clean engine. You'll never find the leak if the engine is caked in oil.

Cheers

PD

So to fill up gear box is via the hex bolt on front of gear box.

Wheels were un-balanced so have had them balanced.

2 jubilee clips have sorted the cat heat shield.

Leak has been comfirmed as the rocker cover, will be changing today.

majik said:

So to fill up gear box is via the hex bolt on front of gear box.

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Yup, drain from the rear.

majik said:

Wheels were un-balanced so have had them balanced.

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Still check security and check the alignment while there.

majik said:

2 jubilee clips have sorted the cat heat shield.

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Good

majik said:

Leak has been comfirmed as the rocker cover, will be changing today.

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Easy to do, but clean everything first.

Cheers

PD

I filled up gear box using breather on top of gear box, was told to when garage balance wheels that this was easiest way. Small black plug that just pulls off, can re-fill gear box with funnel and oil. No need to jack up car etc.

majik said:

I filled up gear box using breather on top of gear box, was told to when garage balance wheels that this was easiest way. Small black plug that just pulls off, can re-fill gear box with funnel and oil. No need to jack up car etc.

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No,no,no!:bang:

The thing about using the correct filler plug is you check the level as you fill it (when it runs out it's full). You can do this from above if you have a squeezy bottle.

If you fill from the breather you have no way of checking the level, you risk low or high gearbox oil levels with the very real possibility of either destroying the gearbox or contaminating the clutch.

fingers99 said:

No,no,no!:bang:

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Thrice no, as the man says, do it properly.

Cheers

PD

Well it was the garage that told me to do it that way. I drain the whole gear box and put in 2.5 litres so surely this cannot be over/under filled as this is what it holds.

Also did it from above with squeezy bottle and it took 2.5 litres, which is what haynes states it takes (just under infact)

What damage could be done filling it this way ???

majik said:

Well it was the garage that told me to do it that way. I drain the whole gear box and put in 2.5 litres so surely this cannot be over/under filled as this is what it holds.

Also did it from above with squeezy bottle and it took 2.5 litres, which is what haynes states it takes (just under infact)

What damage could be done filling it this way ???

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Haynes is wrong, that's the point! From empty, the box takes between 1.4 and 1.6 litres. So, you've bought a litre more gearbox oil than you needed, at a cost of rather more than a 12mm allen key.

The oil will leak out, either through the pivot, through the breather, or through the gearbox seal. If it gets on the clutch plates, your clutch is goosed. In the meantime, all the oil seals are under increased pressure and fuel economy will suffer. It's so much easier to do it the proper way...............

Do not drive the car until you've got the correct level in the box.

Then tell everybody where the garage that suggested doing it your way is, so that we can all avoid it like the plague.

Cheers

PD

To get the level right, sit the car on level ground, drip tray underneath, and remove the filler plug (not the drain plug). You can get at it just by leaning down from the bonnet.

When the oil has stopped draining from the filler plug (may take quite a time) replace the plug, job done.

Will double check it tonite although everywhere states that it holds 2.4 litres of Gearbox oil, I have put in 2.25 lites (Still have half a 500ml left) so it can't be mnassively overfilled. Gear box is more responsive and smoother too.

Gearbox oil expands with heat, so make sure the box is stone cold before removing plug.

The expansion is allowed for in the standard level, overfilled the xpansion will take out a seal (honk, clap, honk, clap)

Cheers

PD

Will try and get it checked tonight along with the clutch cable too.

all checked and these issues are fixed but have a new strange one.

moving into 1st and 2nd gear is very "tight" but if before you start the car you put car into these gears it moves freely and then if you start the car its fine ? but start it without moving the gear stick into 1st and 2nd gear and its a rite bitch to get in there ?

Any ideas ?

Sounds like the clutch cable needs adjusting.

Really ? surely tho that would be the same weather engine on or off etc ?

ok i will have to check that again.

As i have said if before you start the car you move gearstick arounf into 1st and 2nd a few times the back to neutral and then start the car its fine no issues what so ever.

Not recommended, but I've found (testing before fitting everything up after swapping gearbox) that on a Sei without the reverse inhibitor I can get all gears easily without the clutch cable even connected with the engine not running.