Technical Best Fiat 500 for low maintenance?
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Technical Best Fiat 500 for low maintenance?
This is an easy no-brainer.
A 1.2 Pop, without A/C, with 14" steel wheels. Solid white is the easiest colour to touch up/refinish, should that ever prove necessary - and also the only colour that didn't cost extra when new.
Running a 500 won't get any cheaper than that.
However, some might say that's also the most boring option, and gives up much of the 500's charm. If you're that determined to run a Fiat for minimum cost, buy a Panda instead; this could give you some of the cheapest motoring on the planet.
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The main body is Galvanized, the bits bolted to it are not so as the car ages some under body parts can rust a fair bit especially in the UK with often damp conditions , and salt use on the road in winter, so preventative measures can really help slow this down.
Agree with the above. My 1.2 Panda is 17 years old and rust-free. The 1.2 engine on mine never uses a drop of oil or misses a beat at 105k miles (170k km), it's a tough, reliable and well-proven little engine, so no major maintenance concerns.
Just check coolant is ok, and that the rear axle spring pans aren't too badly corroded (they'll probably need some attention to stop them rusting away).
If you're prepared to throw spanners about, then parts are really cheap, but some budget components aren't designed to last or will need attention from time to time, so labour costs can build up:
Just check coolant is ok, and that the rear axle spring pans aren't too badly corroded (they'll probably need some attention to stop them rusting away).
If you're prepared to throw spanners about, then parts are really cheap, but some budget components aren't designed to last or will need attention from time to time, so labour costs can build up:
- Front wishbone bushes wear out, and cause front tyres to wear. Replacing the bush is usually done by replacing the suspension arm (I was quoted £200 by a garage to replace one, I bought both for £80 and did it myself).
- Uneven / high tyre wear seems common, partly due to worn front bushes, getting rear axle alignment correct seems pure luck, with no provision for adjustment.
- Rust builds up on front calipers and rear drums and can cause brakes to bind, needs cleaning off.
- Gearbox input shaft bearing and transmission seals can wear out causing minor leaks.
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On average the 1.2 pop will be the cheapest option but like any car there are good uns and bad uns A 1.2 lounge that’s been fastidiously maintained would be a better buy than a pop run on the cheap by a youngster. Ditto any car having just had a timing belt and coolant change, or a new clutch; that’s £3-400 you’d avoid .
There are a few tricks for savings, such as replacing the 185/55/15 tyres with 195/50/15, saving typically £15-20 per tyre.
Plenty of cheap used parts from breakers these days so they can be fixed relatively cheaply , but buyer beware if a potential purchase has has plenty of used parts to fix issues over a few years.
There are a few tricks for savings, such as replacing the 185/55/15 tyres with 195/50/15, saving typically £15-20 per tyre.
Plenty of cheap used parts from breakers these days so they can be fixed relatively cheaply , but buyer beware if a potential purchase has has plenty of used parts to fix issues over a few years.
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Any car, pop or lounge with MANUAL AC is preferable to climate control ones, note our 1.2 can use oil sometimes I think it sounds a " bit tappy " when cold this seems to indicate its down to minimum on the dip stick 95K 12 years old.
If you buy say a 7 year old car, replace the entire front suspension/discs, rear shocks, overhaul the rear brakes, replace the handbrake cables, SUMP, rust proof the rear beam, new battery, new earth strap, repair/keep an eye on the hatch wiring, that covers most of the items you'd expect to replace at some point, do them all at once and you're pretty much set for a cheap few years to say the least?
If you buy say a 7 year old car, replace the entire front suspension/discs, rear shocks, overhaul the rear brakes, replace the handbrake cables, SUMP, rust proof the rear beam, new battery, new earth strap, repair/keep an eye on the hatch wiring, that covers most of the items you'd expect to replace at some point, do them all at once and you're pretty much set for a cheap few years to say the least?
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Hi
If I want a used Fiat 500 - and my only concern is maintenance - rust, motor, mechanical etc. What will be the cheapest to maintain?
Any hints on that topic? Thanks in advance
Buy a small Toyota - cheaper to purchase in the first place and go wrong less
Opps did I say that out loud
I would go for a well maintained 0.9 TwinAir at anytime. My wife's 2012 Lounge TA is at 80k miles and still going. No road tax, cheap insurance, it's turbo so it's quite nippy compared to the other engines and timing is on chain so no belt replacement is required every few years. Apart from the yearly oil/filters change and MOT the car is no different to other 500 models and it comes with all the known issues:
- Climate control is ok overall, except the blend door issue which is known on all 500 at some point. On our car has broken twice, first time it was the electric motor/actuator of the blend door which I replaced with a new one. Second time the pin which moves the blend door broke inside the actuator and I managed to fix that in situ without taking the dashboard apart which seems to be the most common way of fixing it.
- Clutch Pedal needed re-welding the bracket for the start/stop switch
- Clutch wine/whistle when driving in reverse on cold weather
- Clutch master/slave cylinder broke causing clutch pedal to stick to the floor leaving my wife stranded in the middle of a very busy intersection and garage trying to charge her £500 for a new clutch replacement.
- Knocking front suspension when going over bumps because of poorly designed front suspension arms/wishbone
- Exhaust middle silencer corroded/rusted - replaced with new one
- Rear exhaust pipe hangers rusted/heavily corroded and one broke because the rust ate away the metal.
- Rust on the underbody more than in other car brands.
- Coolant tank cracked near the return pipe and was slowly leaking inside engine bay. New one was installed and no issues since.
- Climate control is ok overall, except the blend door issue which is known on all 500 at some point. On our car has broken twice, first time it was the electric motor/actuator of the blend door which I replaced with a new one. Second time the pin which moves the blend door broke inside the actuator and I managed to fix that in situ without taking the dashboard apart which seems to be the most common way of fixing it.
- Clutch Pedal needed re-welding the bracket for the start/stop switch
- Clutch wine/whistle when driving in reverse on cold weather
- Clutch master/slave cylinder broke causing clutch pedal to stick to the floor leaving my wife stranded in the middle of a very busy intersection and garage trying to charge her £500 for a new clutch replacement.
- Knocking front suspension when going over bumps because of poorly designed front suspension arms/wishbone
- Exhaust middle silencer corroded/rusted - replaced with new one
- Rear exhaust pipe hangers rusted/heavily corroded and one broke because the rust ate away the metal.
- Rust on the underbody more than in other car brands.
- Coolant tank cracked near the return pipe and was slowly leaking inside engine bay. New one was installed and no issues since.
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Knowing everything that I know now, I just wouldn't and I certainly wouldn't buy one at that mileage. The TwinAir reliability is reliant on it having very regular oil changes with C2/C3 oil.
That list should be enough to put anyone off owning an older 500 on a shoe string!
My TwinAir, needed a front suspension rebuild and new rear shocks at 22000miles to keep it nice - quiet and driving well. It had a second set of rear shocks at 46000miles and by the time i sold it at 55000miles the front end was noisy and needed looking at again. I just don´t expect this on a car in the first 5 years of its life!
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Yup I must admit if I had the knowledge I have now back when I was buying a car …. I may well have swerved away from the 500!
Buying a car for looks alone … has been the worst I won’t say mistake maybe mishap!
A 2011 with ONLY 36000! I thought WOW! Hahaha though my laughter soon turned to dust in my mouth
I have replaced more on my car than there is from factory!
I would urge anyone who is thinking about buying an older 500 to expect to do a lot of the harder jobs yourself (if your competent) if not you could expect to be paying out over & over!
The silver lining for myself However… give me a 500 (pre facelift) possibly after?! And I’ll diagnose and fix the issue (probably)
Give a girl a Lemmon … and she will make lemonade
Buying a car for looks alone … has been the worst I won’t say mistake maybe mishap!
A 2011 with ONLY 36000! I thought WOW! Hahaha though my laughter soon turned to dust in my mouth
I have replaced more on my car than there is from factory!
I would urge anyone who is thinking about buying an older 500 to expect to do a lot of the harder jobs yourself (if your competent) if not you could expect to be paying out over & over!
The silver lining for myself However… give me a 500 (pre facelift) possibly after?! And I’ll diagnose and fix the issue (probably)
Give a girl a Lemmon … and she will make lemonade
If the dealer sells you a lemon....
....take it back to the dealer and make them exchange it for a proper car
.