alexGS said:

My biggest problem is trying to prevent the number plate frame from rattling as the lid is closed! Strategic placement of double-sided tape still hasn’t solved it, as the Europlates I use are clipped into the holders and there is always free movement somewhere.



-Alex

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Gina500 said:

Hi, I have a question on the gas spring for the boot lid of the 500C.

I need to open it well above horizontal (so more than half way up) before the spring takes over and fully pushes up the lid. To me, this feels a bit late, as if the damper is worn out, which it shouldn´t be since the car is new.

I have nothing to compare to , so your feedback is appreciated:

is this a feature (i.e. normal) or is this a defect that I should get fixed ?

Thanks a lot

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alexGS said:

My biggest problem is trying to prevent the number plate frame from rattling as the lid is closed! Strategic placement of double-sided tape still hasn’t solved it, as the Europlates I use are clipped into the holders and there is always free movement somewhere.



-Alex

Click to expand...

Piccolo Nero e Bella said:

A favourite bugbear of mine too. After my (rattly) rear plate was stolen, ripped off the car - cover, screws and all - I killed two birds by fitting a black alloy plate to the original holes and screwing the plate and cover firmly down to it.

I was annoyed that the dealer insisted on punching holes, just the two of them, straight into the boot-lid in the first place.

John's suggestion of silicone is probably the cheapest solution.

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alexGS said:

Same happens in NZ - extra holes by the dealer! To suit the standard number plate.

My personalised plates are Euro-size and don’t have holes, so I obtain the Euro-style holders and screw them into the original holes which are, funnily enough, in the right places however some of the holders are better quality than others. The best are German and soft plastic; the worst are hard plastic and a loose grip on the plate. You can guess which I’ve ended up with, but either a lot of tape or some black silicone should indeed sort it out. Thanks John, will do. Neutral-cure silicone is always preferable too and easy to find in hardware stores these days.

Sorry for the thread hijack but I think we’ve addressed the original question. There is one other related topic, which is that the wiring should be fastened to the left hinge. My plastic clip had come adrift and been shoved into the rubber seal very hard by the closing of the lid! I found that there’s a slot that accepts a cable tie perfectly - so, check if there’s a cable tie and if not, tie on that clip firmly

-Alex

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