Hi all,

Come across here from Panda forum as now got a 500 Lounge in the fleet.

OH got a 17 plate TA Cross, had 07 Plate 4x4 and 3 x Mk2 Panda 4x4s in the past.

Thanks to the forum for the buyers guide info, really useful to review on my search for daughter 500.

Ended up with a white 500 1.2 Lounge with 45K on the clock.

Any advice as i will be getting under the car and "fettling" it before she drives it too far just to satisfy myself everything ok.

Its got a 12 month MOT and service history but not yet got cambelt and water pumop change - so they will be done soon.

Looking at :-

Strip rear drum brakes ( its been a while since i messed with drums !!!)
Check rear beam axle for corrosion
Check scuttle drains are all clear
Check wiring in tailgate
Check clean order covers foe front suspension struts (yep they are rusty S$%t design)
New discs and pads

Owt else to prep to make life easier in the long run ?

Know my way around the panda but 500 new to me.

Cheers for any inputs

The biggest ball-ache with drum brakes is the cylinders rather than the shoes (which I'll guess will still be less than half worn) so if you're going to the trouble of dismantling everything (particularly if the drums have even a tiny lip on them... ) then it might be a good idea to have a spare pair of cylinders handy, so you can replace them if they look even remotely damp or leaky.

Shoes are cheap and last forever, so it might be worth a punt to put new ones on there... then you won't need to touch it for a few years, hopefully.

But grease up the shoe pivot springs a bit and free-up and lubricate to buggeration (use grease, not WD40) the actuating arms, particularly the one that pokes out of the drum... they should pivot freely to point downwards whichever way up you hold them. If they're remotely sticky, free them up until they're "loose".

Get some beefy long-nose pliers for the springs (and take a photo of the setup before you remove anything). If the springs don't make you swear several times, you're doing well.

I've heard of the "suspension top covers" in the past. My niece has a new 500 Pop which I'm guessing won't have them.. so it's worth her fitting some probably. Do you have a link to some/any so I can see what I'm looking for?


Ralf S.

Ralf S

Cheers mate, remember the drum set up from the Mk1, guess its not changed much and they were a PIA to get he drum of due to the lip.

Not sourced the rubber covers yet but heard they are cheap but think from the look of my tops will be a bugger to get them of the clean up - read on here loads of threads on how to but i guess they will be well seized up.

Check the sump pan for rust, particularly on the front. If it is ok, paint it or smear it with high melting point grease to keep it that way. While you are under there, you will probably find that the front exhaust mounting needs replacing.

My advice is:
Rear brakes.
Before attempting to remove the brake cylinders, check to see whether the brake pipe is not corroded to the union. If it is then you need to replace the pipe end. One of mine was OK but the other was corroded as the pipe twisted then you turned the nut. You will need a brake pipe flaring tool to flare the existing steel pipe on the car plus new pipe, union and coupler if you are unlucky enough to have a seized pipe.

Check the operation of the self adjusters. Remove, dismantle and clean. One of mine had the plate missing which turns the self adjuster wheel. Fiat ones are £140 for the pair but there are some patterns ones on ebay.

Suspension.
Check play in front suspension. Drop links and lower ball joints.
If the shocks are misting then replace as mine were an advisory then one emptied its oil down the suspension leg a couple of months later. If the nut is rusted in the top of the strut then you may need a thread file, penetrating fluid and an impact driver to get it off. Persistence was key with mine as they were rusted in a pool of water. Bought a pair of plastic covers of ebay and greased over after the new parts were fitted.
You will also need a long reach 32mm socket to remove the main nut underneath once the spring compressors are on.

Rear hatch cables.
The cables from the roof to the rear hatch break causing false door open alarms and light malfunctions. Have some cable, a DVM, a gas soldering iron and heat shrink ready.

Cam belt.
Quite and easy job if you take your time. There is a youtube video of a guy doing a Ford KA which is very good. He did not need to use the cam locking tool. Replace the pump and tensioner at the same time.
As you will have to drain the coolant replace this too.
Also have some decent gasket sealant for the pump (loctite 5980 is good).

I noticed the heater was crap on mine even though the temp guage was half way. Plugging in some diags software like 'Torque Pro' revealed the coolant temp was in the low 70's.
Replacing the thermostat cured this. It should sit at around 84C.

Check the radiator fan resistor which controls the low speed fan. Mine was open circuit which meant the water almost boiled before the high speed fan cut in at around 96C.

Check the large crankcase breather hose for blockages by removing and flushing out. It is prone to gunge build up.
Clean the throttle body whilst the air filter is off.

As you also mentioned, drop the rear beam and check the inside of the spring cups as they are prone to water collecting. Clean, apply rust remover, paint and grease the inside of them. The rest could do with a coat of hammerite or wax oil.

Wardpaa,

Cracking mate as long as im on the right lines.

Will get my "ovies" ready again.

I just hope that the MOT would have picked up the suspension bits and all ok.

Cheers for the reply

"Thin " breather pipe to air box(be extremely careful at air box end if trying to remove) Iridium plugs, most/all of the front suspension to replace, recharge a.c. I've heard something about the blend door servo learning process to try and prevent the door pin breaking a sell or keep car failure, I think, anyone else advise on this ? I replaced all the front suspension on our 09 due to rusting, drum brakes have a new fitting kit also mine got destroyed removing the drum(two types available of fitting kit mine required the non abs kit for our abs equipped car and yes it was identical to the original) my original drum below hence new drums.

Should add make sure drls work and cable tie access door in inner Wing guard in place as they tend to go missing ( Not the small rubber cover)

John202020

Cheers for that, not sure I follow the door pin breaking bit.

Good advice on the drums re abs options on the kits

I’ll bet the spark plug leads are as tough to get off as the panda was, then the plugs were a PIA the first time.

Will check inner wings guard

My list is getting longer ..........

Cheers all really helpful

TTR said:

John202020

Cheers for that, not sure I follow the door pin breaking bit.

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There's a well known fault on climate control cars, the flap that controls the temperature, pivot points fail, thus you cannot control the temperature, its suggested that the servo moves more than the flap can breaking the pin at one end, its a HUGE job to repair, often people sell the car( you need to take the doors off to repair plus much more) there's been talk that the servo can be reprogrammed in order to only move within its range, I'm not 100% but I'm sure others will be round to advise.
The drl bulbs can be bought for £1.50 delivered from Carparts4less Bosch brand. Philips Extreme +130% 55w bulbs for the headlights I found are very good
DRL bulb https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/p/-/-/-/-/?481770919&0&cc5_401

If your DRL access covers have gone walkies( like 2 of ours have before cable ties) here's a link to new ones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-500...h=item1c87e048d1:g:7koAAOSw1NFaRLKG:rk:1:pf:0

Blow up the spare tyre too, a new rear badge is probably required( looks much nicer) as too a new rear wiper, new key fob remote cover and new buttons for remote control(looks brand new once done many colour options available) cover; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GLOSS-BL...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 new buttons; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Button...m=161382439074&_trksid=p2045573.c100507.m3226

This is my guide to doing the front struts https://www.fiatforum.com/500-guides/440891-front-shock-absorber-replacement.html if it helps?

Our heater matrix failed too, new mats? new wiper blades all round, new battery? check/replace engine earth strap-looks ok but bust? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16mm-Ear...adc0acb2:m:maacWvEwGzM1GDqOOXSXqyw:rk:26:pf:0 250/300mm long 8mm holes

Iridium plugs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-DENSO...m=153124982387&_trksid=p2045573.c101006.m3226

Also this coolant pipe that looked OK was in fact seriously degraded that runs behind the exhaust manifold; https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Details&ProdID=18786&sku=268110

Show your daughter this picture, it shows the correct position for the petrol cap when filling up, not scratching the bodywork?

Good strut replacement guide John. Been through the pain but new shocks are worth it.

wardpaa said:

Good strut replacement guide John. Been through the pain but new shocks are worth it.

Click to expand...

I've added another pic re petrol cap often overlooked? The label states how to unlock/lock it for my better half in case she forgets

John202020

Cracking links pal appreciate that - top man.

The 11 plate TA I had from new till 18 months ago, I just coated the suspension top threads in Waxoyl. The 65 plate 500C 1.2 that my wife has just bought has black plastic covers over them.