Technical Hatch wiring cables

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Technical Hatch wiring cables

So, last weekend I had a chance to fit the hatch wiring section. It was out of stock for a week or so but the German company that supply it were very good and kept me in the loop by email, and it eventually arrived a couple of days earlier than they originally said it would be back in stock.

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Looking at the German page mentioned above (http://www.heckklappefiat500.de/) showing step by step pics, I don't think you need to go to the lengths of removing a load of interior trim, and I think their step of slicing wholesale through the wiring either side of the gaiter is a mistake.

I sliced down my gaiter and exposed the wiring, which has been patched up a couple of times and looked extremely second hand.

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The colour codes on the patch kit don't match up with the car's wiring, but I started with things like green/green where there was a match, and made sure a corresponding thickness of wire was used. I also did ONE WIRE AT A TIME. Reason being: for example there are 2 tiny black wires. If you chop through the whole bundle, how do you then know which of the tiny black ends poking out of the hatch matches up with which end poking out of the body? And you don't need the multimeter shown in the German page to find the corresponding cable ends either end of the patch for the right wire. Simply tug one end and you'll see which other end moves.

So, I supported the patch on the boot stay and started with one wire at a time.

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The crimp connectors are OK but not fantastic quality and I found it a little tricky to expose just the right amount of wire, then twist it tightly enough to fit into the connector and hold it in exactly the right place while crimping.

One of my tiny green wires was not crimped correctly, and the wire pulled out from the connector as I hadn't held it properly in place. At this point the other half stepped in with his box of spare connectors (which are useful to have on standby as you can't un-crimp the connectors easily so if you screw up you'll need a spare) to rectify my ****up and re-crimp the bits he thought my girly hands hadn't done tightly enough. He pretty much took over the job, (which I was a little annoyed about because I'd wanted to do it myself, but knowing everything was done up man-tight made up for it) and described it as "A bit like amateur bomb disposal".

Eventually all the wires and the screenwash tube were connected

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Since we didn't chop out the whole section of wire and the old gaiter there was a lot of slack because you effectively have the existing wire length plus the patch section. Which I don't think is a bad thing as it gives the wire room to stretch and move with the hatch's movement. Simply stuff the connectors into either side of the bodywork one by one and reconnect the gaiter and you're good to go.

A quick test drive showed no issues and the wiper arm is behaving correctly again. I did think I'd killed off the rear wash wipe until I realised that I was pressing the trip computer reset button on the end of the stalk like a complete moron. I've only had the car since 2009 but obviously my brain had decided to revert to some time in the dark ages when I had a car with the washer on the end of the stalk. And no, I'm not blonde....

I do wonder what the heck all those wires DO. I mean, there's only the boot light and handle and the wash/wipe in the hatch. It can't be that complicated surely! Also the kit had one more wire than needed but we just pulled it out of the bundle rather than leaving it dangling in the gaiter. Maybe a minor model difference somewhere?

The kit cost £38.95 inc P&P which I think is well worth it to future proof the hatch wiring and save multiple trips to a garage. I doubt it would cost a huge amount to have someone do it for you if you're not confident with wiring.

Hope that helps!
 
So, last weekend I had a chance to fit the hatch wiring section. It was out of stock for a week or so but the German company that supply it were very good and kept me in the loop by email, and it eventually arrived a couple of days earlier than they originally said it would be back in stock.

20160122_131704.jpg


Looking at the German page mentioned above (http://www.heckklappefiat500.de/) showing step by step pics, I don't think you need to go to the lengths of removing a load of interior trim, and I think their step of slicing wholesale through the wiring either side of the gaiter is a mistake.

I sliced down my gaiter and exposed the wiring, which has been patched up a couple of times and looked extremely second hand.

20160123_130754.jpg


20160123_131202.jpg



Hope that helps!

second hand.... - jeepers -:eek:

I'd always wondered what "David Blunkett" was doing nowadays;)
 
Just shows that just reconnecting the split bit or even splicing a bit of new wire doesn't work in the long run. The old wiring will just split somewhere else and you'll be in the same situation again sooner or later. Much better to just replace the whole lot.
 
Hi Folks

First post on an old thread ...

GF's 500 2009 failed MOT yesterday as one brake light out. I was up reading this thread in the early hours this morning and on checking the wiring coming into boot, it was a complete mess that had been attacked with solder and tape by a previous owner.

I am no electrician but crimped those in real need, and taped the exposed wire on those that had sheared silicone. Got the brake light working, though one wire is snapped at the previous solder and the upper part of the wire has pretty much disappeared into the boot lid - definitely not protruding enough to get any purchase.

Only thing I can think of is to cut the boot to increase the size of the opening that the wires come through and get a joint in there to crimp.

Am I over-complicating this, or do I need to start chopping?

Thanks

JRW

Edit: boot no longer opening with handle (button on fob pops it), and numberplate lights not working, so assuming that's what's retracted into the lid ...
 
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NO don't cut any metal work! if need be remove all the lid trim, disconnect all plugs, un-clip the loom from its fixings, then you'll have the ability to pull it through the hole in order to properly repair it.

Knowing about the hatch wiring issue, when I lost both number plate lights together, I knew it was the hatch wires on our 59 plate car, your faults are almost certainly this(note the brake lights are not part of this bundle, but the central brake light is), a kit is available or you can use "test lead/meter lead cable"/ultra flexible silicone covered multi strand wire to repair the wires, I've just done this without the kit cost £10 total, 3 hours work and am confident at DIY mechanical/electrical work/soldering, essentially cut out a section and solder in a longer one, NOT crimp connections, 13-15 wires 5/6 of which are all black.

Our boot release handle is iffy, I found by chance a hard knock knock on the top of the silver bit and the handle worked, sometimes repeat next time, worth a strange try? but is a reliable fix for ours.
 
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On mine I had one thin wire snap and a couple of thicker ones start to strip. I eventually repaired the snapped one and insulated the other bare wires for time convenience.

I've still got the repair loom ready to go, I'll get around to borrowing or buying a sprung ratchet tool when the weather gets better. I envisage I'll need to take the panel off the door and release the cables to get some slack before inserting the loom. This will extend the length of the cable and hopefully, combined with the silicon cabling, if the issue is caused by tight cables, it won't happen again.

The unresponsive handle may or may not be unrelated (may be the wire also), this is a common problem associated with dirt getting inside. I cured mine by taking the handle off, liberally spraying the insides as best I could with WD40 whilst operating it continually until it freed. Handy advice from the forum for which I am grateful. You will be able to feel if the switch is operating or if it is gummed up, if not now then certainly after you've freed it up!
 
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On mine I had one thin wire snap and a couple of thicker ones start to strip. I eventually repaired the snapped one and insulated the other bare wires for time convenience.

I've still got the repair loom ready to go, I'll get around to borrowing or buying a sprung ratchet tool when the weather gets better. I envisage I'll need to take the panel off the door and release the cables to get some slack before inserting the loom. This will extend the length of the cable and hopefully, combined with the silicon cabling, if the issue is caused by tight cables, it won't happen again.

The unresponsive handle may or may not be unrelated (may be the wire also), this is a common problem associated with dirt getting inside. I cured mine by taking the handle off, liberally spraying the insides as best I could with WD40 whilst operating it continually until it freed. Handy advice from the forum for which I am grateful. You will be able to feel if the switch is operating or if it is gummed up, if not now then certainly after you've freed it up!

I did remove the trim on the left side in the car where the seat belt is, but its not really required in order to fix it, hardest part for me(not using the repair kit) was pulling through the new wires through the flexible, took 3 hours to carefully replace every wire one by one in order to not mix them up including the 6 all black wires.
Contact cleaner or maybe brake cleaner would be far better than WD40
 
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Hello - I'm repairing this rear wiring harness for a friend. Fiat wanted to charge them £600 and I couldn't bear them being ripped of for a bit of wiring. I have the replacement German part that is pictured above - I half started today but believe it or not it snowed! So couldn't get any further. I am having trouble disconnecting the heated rear screen terminals - as it's not my car I didn't want to just use brute force - how do these come off? I just want to create a little more slack so I can do the repair easier.

Also having trouble cutting off the old rubber gaitor! Need to find a sharper Stanley knife tomorrow!
 

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I can flick up that bit of plastic but it doesn't seem to make any difference?
 
I'm probably misunderstand - I've already removed all the trim but still can't work out how the heated rear screen terminals remove ...
 
Sorry was too quick for the file to attach!
 

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Not totally sure but generally they are just spade connectors use a tool to hold the tab that's bonded to the glass in orer to give you a bit more grip to pull against there's not a locking tab is there?
I rewired mine without the kit using silicone wire but did not do the heated screen wires as they were still just about ok.
 
Thanks I'll have another good look tomorrow, it was so cold I was probably getting impatient
 
Edit: boot no longer opening with handle (button on fob pops it)...

Spooky mines just started doing it again, press part of handle has minimal movement, lifted boot, cleaned all the grime off the press, squirted some cleaner into the hinge gaps, pressed it about 20-30 times which slackened it a little, got finger nail in to lift the press out of the handle assembly about 2mm and squirted some in there too. Eventually it worked free and it's now moving enough to make contact with the switch and it's working. So glad it wasn't a snapped wire.
 
Yesterday I fixed the wiring problem on our 500
I bought the repair kit on Ebay.
After removing covers I took out the wiring in the hatch because I want the hose for the window washer to be original so I didn't cut that hose.
It took me 2 hours for the repair.
 

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Hello, does anyone know the gauges of the wires in the loom? I've deduced that there are three different thicknesses of wire but I don't want to have to cut the wires to measure the thickness of the strands before I order them. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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