(T) Alternator change - battery light, engine light, rough idle, power steering loss etc

Okay so the problem is, from the beginning, I was driving down the freeway and my battery light came on. So I pulled over and my car died. Mdot jumped it and I made it home. Found out it was my alternator. But also found out that I had a bad ground. So replaced the ground then replaced the alternator. After replacing the alternator, my battery light is still on. Not only that but it’s having a slightly rough idle and when you rev the RPMs past 3500, the engine light comes on (I’m not sure what happens or how it runs with engine light on), when I turn the key into accessory the engine light will stay solid for about 30 seconds then flash about 8 times then stay solid, But when I disconnect the battery and reconnect it, engine light goes off and doesn’t come back on until rpms go past 3500 battery light is still on and still slight rough idle. Also, when idling, my power steering doesn’t work. Like if I’m driving and stop at a stop sign, my power steering goes out and comes back immediately when I take off. Revving engine does not make it come back. (My power steering is electronic). Also my rear hatch will not open.
None of this was ever a problem before the alternator went out and was replaced. I read somewhere that I would have to have something electronically reset at the dealership? Any help is genuinely appreciated.

Hi

The battery light..and the power steering

Both sound like alternator output issues.

Ok basics:

The engine battery is @12.4 volts

Once the engine runs..it spins the alternator
ADDING POWER..
The battery should read 14.4volts .. that is power from the alternator.. the steering NEEDS this power

Get those power figures checked.. if its getting less than 14 volts at the battery terminals.. you have a problem

Charlie

Yes I am. I seem to always be getting anywhere from 13.4 to 13.9. Never over. What all do I need to check?

Has the battery failed?

No? But I think it is a battery issue. Like I said I’m only getting 13.4-13.9 with car running. But now, my back hatch has started working like normal again. And also I noticed now that when I’m at 3000rpms, my battery light goes off. So I’m assuming it’s a battery issue?

It sounds like the new alternator is not working correctly or is not wired correctly. As above you should be getting 14.4v when running across the battery terminals.

That's common on European 500's also. Fortunately easily cured, but do double check you've cleaned off any corrosion around the ground strap mounting point(s).

New batteries, and new alternators, can occasionally be supplied faulty - it happened to me once with an alternator. Spent quite awhile figuring it out before realising the new replacement had a faulty winding.