i understand the panic you feel. breathe easy. there are actually three settings you will need to worry about, not just the two cam wheels, but the auxiliary shaft as well.
i hope since you are going through all this trouble that you are also replacing that timing belt, or you will be back soon to do this job all over again. you realize, right, that this belt needs replacment every 30,000 miles?
i presume that you moved one or both of the cam wheels only modestly, and that the back side of each pulley is visible?
each camshaft pulley has a timing mark and a corresponding timing mark on the camshaft housing. both of those camshaft pulleys should align with the marks on the camshaft housings and the crankshaft timing mark should be at top dead center when # 4 piston is ready to fire. the auxiliary shaft has two marks that should point at approximately 1 o'clock, or towards the tensioner bolt.
the cam indicators and crank pulley will also line up at #4 cylinder exhaust stroke as well. be sure not to misalign these settings as you risk valve crash in addition to a foul running engine. be sure to crank the engine over at least two full strokes to assure that nothing is binding.
a shop manual by brooklands is a very handy tool for this project. it explains with pictures in a very precise step-by-step method on how to do this.
i also have a Chris Obert instruction sheet I can email if you send me an email to
[email protected]