Hi, as with others the Ryobi one+ stuff very good my son has loads of them and v happy; myself - - and I know loads will scoff - I use Black & Decker 18v stuff and can't really fault it - yeah, ok it may not have the power of some makes but is reliable, inexpensive and has wide range of tools and good for being readily available with 1.5v, 2.0 and 4 amphr batteries. BTW - get a combi drill and use in reverse action as makes a good torque wrench.
Power Tool advice
- Thread starter AndyRKett
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Power Tool advice
I've two air impact wrenches. The one I pick up first is my old Clarke which I bought from Machine Mart many years ago and it's fine for run of the mill wheel nuts etc. It's a Clarke 07G - which these days seem to be this one: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cat23b-1-2in-square-drive-air-impact-wre/ When the going gets tough I reach for "The Hooligan" which is a C.P. 7748: https://www.midlandairtools.co.uk/CP7748-chicago-pneumatic-1-2-impact-wrench and seems to align very nicely with the power you quote above for the battery tools - a wee bit cheaper too. Of course it does need a reasonably "meaty" compressor and I bought a 3HP single phase belt driven jobbie which sits on a 90 litre air receiver running at 125PSI That's regulated at 90 psi for the tools and the shop runs a 1/2" hose feeding a 3/8" flex hose to the power tool. The compressor is rated at 14CFM which means it's probably around 10, or a bit more, CFM free air delivery. Whatever, it allows the CP to absolutely laugh at wheel nuts and whips off drive flange nuts with hardly a pause. I'd love to try it on a Honda crank pulley nut - which have a notorious reputation for being almost "undooable". I'd be very surprised if it couldn't manage one.
I must admit I don't have any problem with the hose restricting where I can use it. Mind you I do tend to only use power tools where I've got a tight fixing problem, mostly I prefer to use hand tools. One thing I could criticize on it though is the direction control switch is on the back of the tool. If you're using it in a confined situation you need to be mindful of this because you can back the tool into another component and then find you've jammed and obstructed access to the rotary switch. You can get round it but it's a nuisance. I tend just not to use it in very confined situations - it's quite a big heavy piece of kit anyway. The wee Clarke has it's reversing switch by it's trigger, like an electric drill, so doesn't have this problem. It's ok though because you only allow the situation to arise once.
By the way, if you're considering a compressor, buy a belt driven one. Around the time I bought mine a friend also bought one of similar capacity and air output but his is a direct coupled jobbie. In terms of performance it delivers about the same amount of useable air as mine but oh deary me, is it noisy! Mine sits at the back of my workshop and, with the up and over door closed, you can hardly hear it running, can't say that for my friend's direct coupled jobbie, you literally can't hear yourself think, let alone understand what anyone else is saying, when standing near his.
Now that's an interesting question. The compressor I had before this one was a much smaller one but on quite a large, for the size of compressor, tank. The compressor couldn't even keep up with the wee Clarke gun but, because the tank was big it would run it for long enough to be useful before I had to stop and let the compressor catch up. Because it was old I had it pressure tested a few times and the chap who did the testing told me he did a few of them still - it was and old BEN make, made in 1954! The tank was made from what he called "boiler plate" and was so thick he said it would definitely outlive me and he wouldn't have bothered getting it tested if it belonged to him as it was so over engineered. In the end he tested it roughly every 36 months and took a bottle of single malt for his trouble! My new compressor is about 5 years old now, I think (senior memory problems) and I'm going to approach one of the local engineering companies about testing it and getting a certificate - the previous "wee man" didn't do certificates. I'm not too worried about safety because it sits in a wee alcove between the brick cavity garage wall and my sheet steel workbench which is rawl bolted to floor and back wall. My steel storage shelf is over the top of it and my trailer is parked in front of it. I work on the "family fleet" outside in front of my garage so I think the worst thing that could happen is, if it blew, there'd be a mighty great bang and a bit of damage to the wall, my workbench and trailer? Insurance? I'm not so sure but I imagine they'd not be too impressed. On the other hand, at 77 years young, my days of working on cars are drawing to a close and I doubt if the compressor runs much more than a day per month now. Risk is pretty minimal now I think.
HSE and insurance etc would be more if you employed staff at your workshop 
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I wonder about people with breathing difficulties and bottles of oxygen under pressure etc.
.I wonder about people with breathing difficulties and bottles of oxygen under pressure etc.
True about 'gas'.. But obviously that's a Constant risk
Most Compressed air systems are 'hobbyist' and actually under load for 72 hours a year
I have a piston home compressor..
"Clarke maybe" Noisy but only runs for about 30 minutes a year..
I was amused when the insurance man at work needed me to remove the bung on a very similar tank.. He scoped it and said it was immaculate
No reason to think mine is much worse..
I suppose I could use my USB endoscope
Within 10 feet of mine is my late dad's. " Compressed air rig"
A fridge motor.. So lovely and quiet.. Feeding into a WW2 bombers Oxygen cylinder
Rated to Hundreds of PSI (probably considered "low risk" in the use it had..)
He set it's PRV at @120..
Not sure I would risk much nowadays..
OP
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All of the above is what makes air tools not a very attractive prospect.
If you're just starting out it can be a lot to work out, what compressor you are going to need to run what tools and what performance to expect. Then you need air lines which on their own can be quite expensive, then you have to make sure all your connectors are matching, do you need a line oiler or do the tools have oiling ports,
Finally the one thing no one seems to remember is to drain the tank, which on a nice hot summer day will accumulate quite a lot of water, which when left rots the tank from the unpainted inside.
Running a whole compressor, airlines and anything else needed to keep them in good working order becomes a massive headache if its all to run one impact driver.
I have to confess I did have an impact driver and compressor, the driver was an Aldi device which was actually reasonably good. My compressor was an aging 2hp unit which struggled to keep up with the driver. They took up a huge amount of space in the shed and I maybe used them 2 - 3 times total because by the time I had got everything out, set up and the tank up to pressure, i could have taken the bolts out of what ever the target job was, with a spanner or socket set.
So I sold them to my dad along with some paint guns tire inflator and a simple airgun/blower.
I may get a smaller compressor at some point for blowing dust out or to run a small paint gun, but its a lot of kit to commit to for a couple of air tools.
Basically the story is we are completing on a new house hopefully in the next couple of weeks and I will actually have a garage I can work in. There are quite a few jobs to do around the house and so getting tools which have an interchangeable battery both for automotive and for DIY and woodwork is going to be a bonus. I have corded jigsaws, drills and sanders, but having a battery sander for a job or a circular saw which doesn't have me trailing an extension lead across the garden would be handy.
Having a decent impact driver that I can just pick up and use on the car when needed without having to run a compressor up to pressure, would also be a god send.
I am very particular about organizing tools, it comes from being in a big family and everything always going missing so I am always very careful how I store and organize tools, With a garage I can use I am looking forward to building some storage solutions to keep everything neat and in its place.
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Given how readily available compressors are I don't think there are any requirements to have one at home. Most are limited to 115 - 125 PSI which is considerably less than an aerosol spray. There is nothing flammable inside, and they are all tested by the manufacturers to take well above the rated pressure. they all come with pressure release valves. They're all pretty safe really.
As an apprentice one of my first jobs in the morning (apart from putting the kettle on) was to drain the compressor, a lot of milky coloured water used to come out every day. I believe they were surveyed every year and inspection plates removed to check the inside of the tank.
Theoretically you could argue that the hobbiest's compressor is more likely to be in poor condition due to being a cheaper design with thinner tank and lower quality valves, probably neglected, water never drained regularly, oil in pump if applicable, not checked etc.
In the past I have had compressors where the receiver was made from 3/8ths inch thick steel so heavy you could barely lift it, conversely at auctions I have seen catalogue returns from Machinemart etc. that have been dropped where the thin tank is badly dented.
Incidentally some fridges run at over 100psi and air source heat pumps at over 400psi.
Theoretically you could argue that the hobbiest's compressor is more likely to be in poor condition due to being a cheaper design with thinner tank and lower quality valves, probably neglected, water never drained regularly, oil in pump if applicable, not checked etc.
In the past I have had compressors where the receiver was made from 3/8ths inch thick steel so heavy you could barely lift it, conversely at auctions I have seen catalogue returns from Machinemart etc. that have been dropped where the thin tank is badly dented.
Incidentally some fridges run at over 100psi and air source heat pumps at over 400psi
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When I ran my evening classes in welding and car care/maintenance I covered MMA (stick welding) MIG/MAG (wire fed MIG welders) and Oxy Acetylene. I had a BOC Porta Pac for the gas welding which I stupidly actually let my insurance company know I was keeping in my home workshop. They were not "Happy Bunnies" at all and placed a whole load of restrictions on the policy - to be honest I'm surprised they didn't just cancel it outright. I reappraised the course content and realized that, although people were interested in the gas welding nobody had any intention of actually buying the expensive kit or renting the bottles. So I dropped it from the course, returned the bottles to BOC - that was interesting in that they don't cancel your account but simply suspend it. This worried me for quite a while but it's been years now and I've not had any bills from them although they did send me confirmation that my stock holding was "nil" for several years. I then expanded the course content on the MMA and MIG/MAG front. I do miss the kit when I've got something really seized up which I'm trying to dismantle.
Must admit I never really considered that the compressor might have implications in this area. My insurance people were happy for me to hold a half size cylinder of non flamable MIG gas - Argoshield 5, now called Argoshield Light I believe? - without charging any excess.
Sorry, am a little late to this thread.
I'm a Ryobi user. I have:
I've had no issues with any of the above and they have done everything I've wanted them to do. The batteries seem to last and keep their charge and I've only had one out of eight batteries I have fail. All are Ryobi batteries but I see cheaper alternatives are available. The tools themselves all hve 3 year warranties when registered.
Of the above the one tool I have fights with is the Pole Hedge Trimmer. It has the base pole and an optional entension. With the base pole then horizonal and vertical reach operation are fair but heavy-ish hard work. With the extension then you really need the harness (which I have) but it is really heavy work. Also the fibreglass poles are showing the signs of wear/slop at the joints. Much of this is due to me using the extension as a massive long horizontal reach and the wight of the motor and cutter at the end is a real strain on MY and it's joints
I doubt I would have bought this many Ryobi tools had issues.
How Ryobi comares to Makita, SnapOn etc. in professional daily use I don't know but I've hammered my hedge trimmer asking much of it and often and it is now 6 years old and for the £100 it cost me back in 2017 complete with battery and charger. My drill is 7 years old and going strong.
I'm a Ryobi user. I have:
- Drill
- Hedge Trimmer
- Line Trimmer/Strimmer
- Blower
- Pation Cleaner
- Torch
- Pole Hedge Trimmer
- Hot Glue Gun
- Multitool
- Circular Saw
- Chain Saw
- Cordless Hand Vacuum
- 3/8" Ratchet Wrench
I've had no issues with any of the above and they have done everything I've wanted them to do. The batteries seem to last and keep their charge and I've only had one out of eight batteries I have fail. All are Ryobi batteries but I see cheaper alternatives are available. The tools themselves all hve 3 year warranties when registered.
Of the above the one tool I have fights with is the Pole Hedge Trimmer. It has the base pole and an optional entension. With the base pole then horizonal and vertical reach operation are fair but heavy-ish hard work. With the extension then you really need the harness (which I have) but it is really heavy work. Also the fibreglass poles are showing the signs of wear/slop at the joints. Much of this is due to me using the extension as a massive long horizontal reach and the wight of the motor and cutter at the end is a real strain on MY and it's joints
I doubt I would have bought this many Ryobi tools had issues.
How Ryobi comares to Makita, SnapOn etc. in professional daily use I don't know but I've hammered my hedge trimmer asking much of it and often and it is now 6 years old and for the £100 it cost me back in 2017 complete with battery and charger. My drill is 7 years old and going strong.
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I can't comment on the other tools but have used the Ryobi battery hedge cutter with extensions for helping an old and ailing ex customer and would agree with your comments although I had to resort to my older mains powered hedge cutter to do the thicker bits as not man enough for the job I was undertaking.Of the above the one tool I have fights with is the Pole Hedge Trimmer. It has the base pole and an optional entension. With the base pole then horizonal and vertical reach operation are fair but heavy-ish har work. With the extension then you really need the harness (which I have) but it is really heavy work. Also the fibreglass poles are showing the signs of wear/slop at the joints. Much of this is due to me using the extension as a massive long horizontal reach and the wight of the motor and cutter at the end is a real strain on MY and it's joints
The normal hedge cutter I find is pretty good on some fairly thick stuff 10mm+ but not too many at once. The nibbler works quite well. The pole cutter is not quite as good as the normal one. Will take the thicker branches an then jam. This is probly due to the battery being 12 feet away from the motor and the associated voltage/power drop compared to the normal hedge cutter.I can't comment on the other tools but have used the Ryobi battery hedge cutter with extensions for helping an old and ailing ex customer and would agree with your comments although I had to resort to my older mains powered hedge cutter to do the thicker bits as not man enough for the job I was undertaking.
If when the pole cutter breaks (probly pole related) then depending on cost of spares etc. I may just go for one of those pole cutters with a drive chain/shaft from the motor drive at the base to the blades at the end.
OP
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In the end I went with Makita, I got a heavy duty impact driver that used the LXT battery system it’s very good and takes wheel nuts off without any issue so should be fine for most jobs. I am also eyeing up a ratchet that uses the same battery and gets good reviews.
I’m planning to take the cylinder head off my Punto soon and I need some Ribe bits, does anyone have any recommendations for a decent set of 1/2inch impact Ribe sockets ?
Also is 1/2inch ok or should I go for something smaller ? Is there clearance in the head of the 1.2 16v to get larger sockets in there ?
I’m planning to take the cylinder head off my Punto soon and I need some Ribe bits, does anyone have any recommendations for a decent set of 1/2inch impact Ribe sockets ?
Also is 1/2inch ok or should I go for something smaller ? Is there clearance in the head of the 1.2 16v to get larger sockets in there ?
Pretty sure my RIBE set is 1/2, to suit my Torque wrench array.
Here is a 12month old thread
2009 MultiJet engine out cam chain repair | FIAT Panda (Mk3)
I am (Kingsteignton) but never thought to ask.
www.fiatforum.com
My RIBE set were from Bergen,
Have a look at their range
(pretty sure Jock and I discussed these a while back)
No issues and I did a few HG's with them...
Yup, I've got a number of tools of that brand, sockets and timing tools in particular, and everything has worked well and resisted moderate abuse so far.Here is a 12month old thread
2009 MultiJet engine out cam chain repair | FIAT Panda (Mk3)
I am (Kingsteignton) but never thought to ask.
My RIBE set were from Bergen,
Have look at thir range
(pretty sure Jock and I discussed these a while back)
No issues and I did a few HG's with them...
Some years ago I bought a Sealey set of 10mm Hex drive bits long and short in Hex, splines and Torx, it came with 1/2inch and 3/8th adaptors, I have replaced a few bits over the years but considering the use it has had not bad. As there were the long bits also then generally you could get in most places.
Personally I would "crack off" the tight bolts with a long bar before using impact stuff if possible as I have seen Torx head bolts rounded off and then you really are screwed.
Though I agree some tight bolts benefit from a bit of impact vibration also.
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OP
Good point I think my deep socket set which are half inch are Bergen and they’ve been really good so I will check them out for Ribe bits, I’m keen to avoid a bit that fits into a socket that then attaches to the ratchet as it’s just more possible points of failure that said I have some over sized hex keys and torx bits that are the same which have not been too much trouble.Here is a 12month old thread
2009 MultiJet engine out cam chain repair | FIAT Panda (Mk3)
I am (Kingsteignton) but never thought to ask.
My RIBE set were from Bergen,
Have a look at their range
(pretty sure Jock and I discussed these a while back)
No issues and I did a few HG's with them...
I like to buy reasonably good tools at a reasonable price but I’m not paying the stupid prices of things like snaponSome years ago I bought a Sealey set of 10mm Hex drive bits long and short in Hex, splines and Torx, it came with 1/2inch and 3/8th adaptors, I have replaced a few bits over the years but considering the use it has had not bad. As there were the long bits also then generally you could get in most places.
Personally I would "crack off" the tight bolts with a long bar before using impact stuff if possible as I have seen Torx head bolts rounded off and then you really are screwed.
I’m happy to pay a little more and pay once rather than go cheap and regret it.
I’ve seen many cheap torx bits that don’t fit well strip the insides out of the bolts.
That said if it’s under high torque then I’m not going to waste time using a gun on it and will reach straight for the breaker bar.
I did try to PM Dave recently as I know he wasn't well a while ago, but haven't heard anything back.
