Do you happen to know what to do with regards to the injectors and coil?
^ unplug crank sensor,
^ unplug crank sensor,
Do you happen to know what to do with regards to the injectors and coil?
^ unplug crank sensor,
But now it's back, does this suggest cat failure to you guys? homeward I know you had issues like this, could I ask for your opinion as to what you think?
As it looks like you've got MES(!), can you work out how to do a live reading of the lambdas, once the engine's warmed up?
Top one should spike like crazy; bottom one should stay flat -- with occasional peaks when you blip the throttle, etc..
If they're not doing that, then, yes, you may end up with it being the cat. How many miles has the car done; what year is it (sorry, I know I'm being lazy: but just got out of bed, after an horrendous migraine: so what I laughingly refer to as my brain is even more fuzzy than usual...)?
With mine, P1135 was solved -- sorry to say -- with a new lambda. So what make and price was yours? IIRC, it was from Big Mick (although he recommended a couple of makes to me: and I went, typically, for the most expensive -- and I replaced both...): so it should be fine... -- so I wonder if there's a wiring issue...? Have you tried swapping the lambdas over...? :chin:
Of course, it might not be the lambda or the wiring. I wonder if running rich -- what's your fuel consumption like...? -- could cause a problem...? (This is one for the experts, I'm afraid....)
Good luck! Not so sure I've helped; but a live data reading, and/or swapping the lambdas may give us a clue.... :idea:
I indeed do have full MES, but for some reason I can't see a checkbox that allows me to read each lambda as I want to (hard to explain without it infront of me..on the 8v version I know I could),
car has done 83000 miles and is 2002, was on its original lambdas and cat from the looks of it -- until I recently replaced the pre-cat lambda with one from big mick at Eurocarcare, approx £40-50 (excellent service btw),
I swapped the lambdas over before I changed to a new one, and the code then stayed away, swap them back and the code came back, so I changed the lambda that was throwing up the code
I supsected this too -- ive been paranoid that I have been running rich for a while (although Im not sure if this is because I was getting 50-+ (5) in my old 8v Punto, but I cannot get over 41.3 on this -- averages 38?
Yes you were of help, appreciated!!
Can't help with MES: as my notebook is currently at my parents-in-law, with Mrs homeward.
I don't think 38 mpg (unless that's on the display, rather than calculated...) is too bad; but I get quite a bit better. (Mind you, I drive with minimal acceleration and braking: IAM-style....) After a new cat and lambdas, I'm getting mid-40s; but never got much lower than 40 before. I also only use Shell super unleaded (which gives me less pence per mile...). But, if your gut is telling you that you might be running rich, it might also be worth checking that the breather hose is intact -- and either not leaking fumes out, that you're subconsciously smelling; or letting air in, that's causing the fuelling to get a bit iffy....
I think finding someone who knows their way around MES is the next step. Ziggy and a1ant come to mind; as does oldhammer.... :worship:
BTW, my gut still says cat -- as that's the mileage mine started acting up. Just the odd code, at first; then more frequently; but, I'm afraid, no jumpiness or jerkiness.... :chin:
If cat is goosed it will hold back...choke it up..
I once split the Mani cat on a Nissan Micra...and had a peeek at the internals with the engine running...them mofo's burn hottter than the sun...
Normally sometimes when there failing or being ovefueld you can see the out side of the cat
Glowing...
Worth a look in the dark.
Once they is cooked they is cooked...off with them and replace...
Don't throw old ones away... they is still got a refund on em. Like old Barr bottles anyone remember them's
Got Mrs h to boot up the netbook. :worship:
Once you've selected the right ECU (see below), and gone into the engine section, you should see an "F5 Graph" tab. On this should be, about halfway down, a whole series of Lambda entries for you to tick the boxes of. You might have to fiddle about: but the pre- and post-cat are the ones you need. (D'oh.) I'm told that there are no units in the right-hand column for status -- when I would have expected volts. But this might do. (Admittedly, it's in simulation mode; and maybe not with the right ECU selected... -- but this might be a good place to start....)
Does this help? Or did you know this already...?
You wouldnt happen to know if the closed loop and open loop are meant to act the same as the voltages fluctuating (although I think that the closed and open only suggest when the lambda is working and needed by the ecu),
This piccy...
...shows that your understanding is correct. Closed loop is when the engine is sufficiently warm to start 'listening' to the lambdas.
I've now got the missus installing the latest version (2.1) of MES -- to see if that sheds any light. But it's past her bedtime: so you may have to wait for enlightenment...!
Ps: does the air intake in mbar look normal? Not sure what the readings should be.
Although neither of us have worked out a way of displaying voltages -- so I'm also "a bit unsure"... -- there seems to be too much activity from the post-cat lambda: and it seems to be shadowing the pre-cat one.
If this were a voltage reading -- and now I've got the netbook back, I still can't find a way of displaying voltages in MES (and therefore feel like I'm missing something obvious -- Ziggy122 and oldhammer...?) -- I'd say the cat was on its way out; but I used to get P0420 errors all the time when mine was going (principally because the post-cat lambda had too much work to do...). It's not a cheap gamble to replace the manicat though (£100-plus; as well as the time it takes...).
Neither am I. If I get the chance, over the weekend, I shall plug in MES, and see what I can find....
i know you can get the 8v todo a Pre and post cat voltage/scope output
you need to be connected up - and only select Precat and post cat voltages (not preheater status btw)
Tick the boxes on parameters so its scanning/updating
You can then need to click on the graph and start it
It'll then start to plot the readings as they come
The Pre should be going High low high low high low
Post should gently sweep around 0.3v to 0.8v ish shouldnt bounce like pre does
Ziggy