General fuel pump relay

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General fuel pump relay

no two problems with the aromatic hydrocarbons:

they will fire up by Deisel and over pressure the head gasket if you are unlucky. you only have to do it once too often

cause they will Deisel you are only confirming that your valve timing is ok and your head gasket has not yet blown

if you want to confirm spark remove number 1 plug lead attach it to a spare plug and lay the plug on cam cover flat there should be a detectable spark

to confirm timing remove number 1 plug and top cam belt cover confirm number 1 piston is at top dead centre when cam pulley pointer is aligned with notch, push the auto in gear to rotate engine until pointer aligns.

You should not have swapped leads or coil packs if you have done so you need to put them back correct.

if it reeks of petrol is the relay still clicking?

if it runs at all the timing is only out a tooth or two...

which symptoms do we have now? Is the ECU light on or intermittent?
 
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if it runs at all it is only one or two teeth out on the cam belt please leave it in the runs a bit configuration

please check the cam pulley tdc marker is exact at TDC
 
good but if it reeks of petrol still then you need to check the coolant temperature sensor resistor resistance with a multimeter

you may be over fuelling...

is the relay still clicking?
 
good but if it reeks of petrol still then you need to check the coolant temperature sensor resistor resistance with a multimeter

you may be over fuelling...

is the relay still clicking?



Doesn't seem to kepp clicking now, ive got a new coolant temp sensor on its way to me today to try, the temp gauge on the dash doesn't move even though can tell engines warm
 
the ECU has a different temperature sender from the gauge?

the ECU sensor is what controls the injectors as well as the MAP etc...

all the coolant hoses get really warm?
 
the stock SPI ECU and SPI injector should be ok with a 1.4 16 valve to 3k rpm... is that what you have?

the fan is controlled by a sensor/switch on the rad still?

so the next step ---- is the temp sender for the ECU ok with multi meter on ohms measure with hot coolant and cold coolant and you need to estimate the temp of the coolant you need to disconnect the plug and connect both leads to the pins of the sender

did you pull a good sender from a SPI auto?

the correct values of resistance are on the site somewhere cold has a high resistance warm low

and is the ECU light intermittent or on solid
 
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