The best tool for blanking off the EGR valve is your local M.E.P. as they were the b******s who leglistrated for it in the first place (plus these bloody mini flourescent house bulbs that ruin your eyes). Yes, I am a man of a certain age (over 60) who hates the E.U. and shouts back at the television, (recent report). And yes, I have cleaned my EGR valve once but next time I'll throw the thing away and stick a M.E.P up the pipe!
Technical EGR Blanking on JTD
- Thread starter robbie-rocket-pants
- Start date
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Technical EGR Blanking on JTD
Its possible to remove the EGR completely when remapping the ECU.
Why do you want it to close completely after the engine warms up?
Wouldn't that be the perfect combination?
It would still help the engine to warm up more quickly and at the same time it would reduce soot build-up (among other things) in the inlet manifold, as it would be closed most of the engines operating time.
It would still help the engine to warm up more quickly and at the same time it would reduce soot build-up (among other things) in the inlet manifold, as it would be closed most of the engines operating time.
The EGR does spend most of its time closed anyway, if the engine is under load the EGR is closed, or atleast it should be.
I've blanked off the EGR's in the last 5 Stilo's my family has owned and there has been no difference in how fast the engine warms up. In fact I would say blanking the EGR's caused the engines to warm up more quickly because a working EGR reduces combustion temperature, less heat produced means a slower warm up.
I've blanked off the EGR's in the last 5 Stilo's my family has owned and there has been no difference in how fast the engine warms up. In fact I would say blanking the EGR's caused the engines to warm up more quickly because a working EGR reduces combustion temperature, less heat produced means a slower warm up.
Hi Stu/Dave
Mine is blanked with a solid plate, i have seen some plates with holes in. whats the benifits of blanking with a couple of small holes in apart from the mounting holes:bang:?
Paul
and what are the best points of blanking so i can re check mine
Mine is blanked with a solid plate, i have seen some plates with holes in. whats the benifits of blanking with a couple of small holes in apart from the mounting holes:bang:?
Paul
and what are the best points of blanking so i can re check mine
Hmm that's interesting! Are there any other benefits noticeable other than less gunk in the intake manifold?
I'll go and read this thread then what would be the best way to get rid of it on a 150 Multijet...
Hmm that's interesting! Are there any other benefits noticeable other than less gunk in the intake manifold?
I'll go and read this thread then what would be the best way to get rid of it on a 150 Multijet...
You can't fit a blanking plate to a mJTD(16v) it will detect the plate an turn on the engine management light, only the 8v can be completely blanked.
You have to install a "restrictor plate", a plate with small holes in it.
Have a read of the PDF document attached to this post.
After reading the Pdf attached, am i better to have the plates with the small holes or just a complete blank 1.9jtd 8v 2004.
Problem
Engine jerking.
Hesitation when accelerating at 1800-2000 rpm.
mine does this when i have turbo!, whats the pro's an con's for having a complete blank or having the 3 holes?
Might just be me not getting my head round it!
Paul
Problem
Engine jerking.
Hesitation when accelerating at 1800-2000 rpm.
mine does this when i have turbo!, whats the pro's an con's for having a complete blank or having the 3 holes?
Might just be me not getting my head round it!
Paul
I can only imagine the idea of the restrictor plates are to create more turbulance and increase gas velocity as it passes through the smaller holes.
This would probably assist the issue of the soot not settling in the egr in the first place(and jamming it open)
Also i think they are also to prevent that hesatancy when you put your footdown and the egr should fully shut, as most eventually dont fully close the reduced flow volume and increased velocity would assist in a better mix in the inletanifold and in effect stop the big slug of egr gas that has no oxygen and will produce a power dip.
On my jtd 16v
I have with help managed to map out the egr function to a degree but not completely as i have removed the pipe from exhaust manifold and blanked with steel plate 10mm. At the manifold end the egr has been fully removed off the car, but this still put the eml light on(still looking for a signal from solenoid) so i have chopped connector off solenoid and soldered an 8ohm resistor accross it(from testing solenoid resistance)
This has been working for a while now.
The downside to blanking a jtd 16v without mapping it would be permanant eml light and i didnt fancy that.
I will try to drag out of the maps what figures of maf flow egr ecu is expecting if it helps.
I do still feel that i have a slightly longer warm up time, but im coasting downhill first few minuits and functional egr would help warm up quicker on return jurney its slightly uphill and carriageway so on throttle warm up time seems same.
Also remap would need to take into account the differnent vnt values as turbo becomes more efficient without flow going to egr.
It took a lot of adjustments and map changes to get act boost to follow desired boost as good as id like.but might still run ok with std map as plenty of jtd owners have blanked and not mapped, and not complained of boost spikes.
I can post map in 3d and changes but as its a hybrid turbo figures would be irelevant for std turbo.
Also another side effect could be overheating of the turbo due to not having egr gas to kill the heat and give turbo a rest.
I have an exhaust gas temperature gauge fitted and can say that even with no egr when you take foot of the gas the temps still drop due to less fuel being burnt anyway.
This would probably assist the issue of the soot not settling in the egr in the first place(and jamming it open)
Also i think they are also to prevent that hesatancy when you put your footdown and the egr should fully shut, as most eventually dont fully close the reduced flow volume and increased velocity would assist in a better mix in the inletanifold and in effect stop the big slug of egr gas that has no oxygen and will produce a power dip.
On my jtd 16v
I have with help managed to map out the egr function to a degree but not completely as i have removed the pipe from exhaust manifold and blanked with steel plate 10mm. At the manifold end the egr has been fully removed off the car, but this still put the eml light on(still looking for a signal from solenoid) so i have chopped connector off solenoid and soldered an 8ohm resistor accross it(from testing solenoid resistance)
This has been working for a while now.
The downside to blanking a jtd 16v without mapping it would be permanant eml light and i didnt fancy that.
I will try to drag out of the maps what figures of maf flow egr ecu is expecting if it helps.
I do still feel that i have a slightly longer warm up time, but im coasting downhill first few minuits and functional egr would help warm up quicker on return jurney its slightly uphill and carriageway so on throttle warm up time seems same.
Also remap would need to take into account the differnent vnt values as turbo becomes more efficient without flow going to egr.
It took a lot of adjustments and map changes to get act boost to follow desired boost as good as id like.but might still run ok with std map as plenty of jtd owners have blanked and not mapped, and not complained of boost spikes.
I can post map in 3d and changes but as its a hybrid turbo figures would be irelevant for std turbo.
Also another side effect could be overheating of the turbo due to not having egr gas to kill the heat and give turbo a rest.
I have an exhaust gas temperature gauge fitted and can say that even with no egr when you take foot of the gas the temps still drop due to less fuel being burnt anyway.
ban1111
New member
hi sussexa. cannot see the turbo overheating due to having no EGR valve to help cool the mixture down. highest heat will clearly be under extended period of engine load and as you
know this would, if an EGR valve was working, it would be closed and so not
aiding in the cooling of the gasses..of course i am applying this to a standard or lightly tuned car
know this would, if an EGR valve was working, it would be closed and so not
aiding in the cooling of the gasses..of course i am applying this to a standard or lightly tuned car
Fully understand now thanks!
mine has a full blank on i think Stilo73 put on, its blanked if you look at the egr, right hand pipe think its a 90 degree pipe.
am i right in thinking 2 parts to blank an big square plate is needed
Paul
mine has a full blank on i think Stilo73 put on, its blanked if you look at the egr, right hand pipe think its a 90 degree pipe.
am i right in thinking 2 parts to blank an big square plate is needed
Paul
Hi Paul. No you only need one blank, it’s the silver coloured corrugated pipe fixed with two Allen bolts front left of the engine.
If you remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom bolt (very tight), pull the pipe back a little you can flick the gasket to one side using a small screwdriver so it is pivoting on the bottom bolt.
You can then get hold of it and remove the bottom bolt and slide it out, use the gasket as a template to make a blank I used 1mm steel plate, the side of an old computer case actually.
Drilling the bolt holes a little bigger will help don’t forget to remove the burs, slide the bottom part of the blank in and get the bottom bolt in a couple of turns then as before pivot on the bottom bolt and get the top bolt in, tighten up and your done.
You can use a baked bean tin to make a blank but it will only last about 4000 miles.
My car covered 220,000 hard driving miles with a blank and suffered no related problems.
If you remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom bolt (very tight), pull the pipe back a little you can flick the gasket to one side using a small screwdriver so it is pivoting on the bottom bolt.
You can then get hold of it and remove the bottom bolt and slide it out, use the gasket as a template to make a blank I used 1mm steel plate, the side of an old computer case actually.
Drilling the bolt holes a little bigger will help don’t forget to remove the burs, slide the bottom part of the blank in and get the bottom bolt in a couple of turns then as before pivot on the bottom bolt and get the top bolt in, tighten up and your done.
You can use a baked bean tin to make a blank but it will only last about 4000 miles.
My car covered 220,000 hard driving miles with a blank and suffered no related problems.
if these help these are the ecu maps for maf egr in the jtd 16v
please keep in mind im not professional in any way, don't know for sure but look like to me(could be wrong)
this is what maf airflow its expecting with egr off /closed/ not operating
this will give you some idea what maf readings its looking for ie 485mg/I at idle theres a lot of 1200mg/I on there as id assume its not bothered and depending on boost so must be max expected
heres what looks like what its looking for with egr operational
I would assume that the ecu would then control the egr valve solenoid opening % to achieve the desired airflow(reduction through maf)
also from looking at the lower chart egr operating you can see at 3750revs and over it will never open and above 50mm3 IQ it would never open
these may be of help for people who blank but get eml and drill holes to achieve min requied egr flow, I ended up with a 8mm or 9mm hole to run without eml but if id have stayed like that id have done say more smaller holes(not so small to block up easily mind)
please keep in mind im not professional in any way, don't know for sure but look like to me(could be wrong)
this is what maf airflow its expecting with egr off /closed/ not operating
this will give you some idea what maf readings its looking for ie 485mg/I at idle theres a lot of 1200mg/I on there as id assume its not bothered and depending on boost so must be max expected
heres what looks like what its looking for with egr operational
I would assume that the ecu would then control the egr valve solenoid opening % to achieve the desired airflow(reduction through maf)
also from looking at the lower chart egr operating you can see at 3750revs and over it will never open and above 50mm3 IQ it would never open
these may be of help for people who blank but get eml and drill holes to achieve min requied egr flow, I ended up with a 8mm or 9mm hole to run without eml but if id have stayed like that id have done say more smaller holes(not so small to block up easily mind)
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I bought (8€) my restrictor plate at the Fiat dealership today and they said that they regularly install these on JTD engines; now I'm worried about the state of my intake manifold. My car has covered around 72k miles without this restrictor; should I remove the intake manifold and clean it? How difficult is it to remove?
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If your 16v with swirl flaps, not so easy i beleive.
I think the hp pump has to be diconnected to get manifold out, meaning new cam belt or a sure way of clamping the hp pully.
Im sure theres a few more vauxhaull cdti and alfa jtdm owners who have done their own.
Ive never fancied it.
The most i tried was a can of 10k boost, which had a nice long spray nozzle and i gave it the full can through my boost gauge hole and varied the hose position to try to hit all faces inside the manifold.
Be aware its smokey
http://youtu.be/9dJZIsuNYrs
Ill never know how much it cleaned out.
Dont forget to clean carbon from manifold when you fit that gasket, be aware theres not much of a hole there more like a slot if i remember right.
edit
found a pic heres looking back into manifold(may also be a bit sooted up)
sorry bit blurry
found a pic this is looking back into manifold
I think the hp pump has to be diconnected to get manifold out, meaning new cam belt or a sure way of clamping the hp pully.
Im sure theres a few more vauxhaull cdti and alfa jtdm owners who have done their own.
Ive never fancied it.
The most i tried was a can of 10k boost, which had a nice long spray nozzle and i gave it the full can through my boost gauge hole and varied the hose position to try to hit all faces inside the manifold.
Be aware its smokey
http://youtu.be/9dJZIsuNYrs
Ill never know how much it cleaned out.
Dont forget to clean carbon from manifold when you fit that gasket, be aware theres not much of a hole there more like a slot if i remember right.
edit
found a pic heres looking back into manifold(may also be a bit sooted up)
sorry bit blurry
found a pic this is looking back into manifold
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You are right after I wrote that post I went looking for a DIY and it not that easy to remove it - and even if you do, it's recomended to replace the manifold altogether as some parts get worn and it is near impossible to clean.
If you sprayed that into the manifold were you not afraid that carbon could damage your valves if it came off in chunks?
If you sprayed that into the manifold were you not afraid that carbon could damage your valves if it came off in chunks?
Its always a risk i suppose but id imagine its designed to soften up and make runny rather than break off in lumps.
Ive always used injector cleaners etc and run superfuels etc and car was probably only on 30,000 miles then anyway.
I also use watermethanol injection sprayed just after intercooler, so when spraying i should always get a light cleanout right through manifiold into engine and on the way out.
So i wasnt that worried about a big build up in there.
Ive always used injector cleaners etc and run superfuels etc and car was probably only on 30,000 miles then anyway.
I also use watermethanol injection sprayed just after intercooler, so when spraying i should always get a light cleanout right through manifiold into engine and on the way out.
So i wasnt that worried about a big build up in there.
