Tuning Canterbury 695

[AndrewHarvey]

Hi - had a great day building the front of my 500........but I've hit a snag.
I bought a disc conversion with spacers and I've found a problem fitting the spacers on the hubs.
You will see a bolt head holding the hub on in picture 1
This clashes with the spacer mating surface in picture 2
If I remove the bolt, the spacer will sit flush on the hub, and will rub the caliper in picture 3 and what do I replace the bolt with??

Your experiences will be welcomed

 

[Vitesse]

Hi - had a great day building the front of my 500........but I've hit a snag.
I bought a disc conversion with spacers and I've found a problem fitting the spacers on the hubs.
You will see a bolt head holding the hub on in picture 1
This clashes with the spacer mating surface in picture 2
If I remove the bolt, the spacer will sit flush on the hub, and will rub the caliper in picture 3 and what do I replace the bolt with??

Your experiences will be welcomed

Andrew I think you have two options. Either get the bolt hole drilled out as per the opposite one and fit a Allen key bolt, I assume it is probably counter sunk? Or the easier of the two options would be to drill a hole in the spacer to accept the bolt head.

Tony

 

[Vitesse]

Hi - had a great day building the front of my 500........but I've hit a snag.
I bought a disc conversion with spacers and I've found a problem fitting the spacers on the hubs.
You will see a bolt head holding the hub on in picture 1
This clashes with the spacer mating surface in picture 2
If I remove the bolt, the spacer will sit flush on the hub, and will rub the caliper in picture 3 and what do I replace the bolt with??

Your experiences will be welcomed

There again rereading you post, it sounds like neither of the above will not work as the spacer will always hit the caliper is that correct?

Tony

 

[the hobbler]

Andrew;
Looking at your pictures, the adapter plate is countersunk slightly on one side. Is the other side 'raised' (i.e. the reverse of countersunk)? if the other side is flush, will that then clear the calliper; another option might be a very thin shim, which matches the 'counter-sink' and brings the spacer JUST enough to clear the calliper.

 

[AndrewHarvey]

The other side has the rim machined in it to centre the 190 wheel hub - I'll put a image up tommorow.
I think this is trouble......countersink the bolt to match its partner + a shim...........bugger..........it was bought from the same supplier, at the same time and meant to go together.....thats classic restorations for you....

 

[stevehg]

You could make up 4 equal length spacer tubes for the 4 bolts that are long enough to clear the bolt head and caliper. The would have to accurately equal and strong enough not to deform with the tightening torque of the bolts.

Otherwise, you'd have to get two new spacers made up.

cheers, Steve

 

[Damon500]

Hi Andrew,
More of the joys of aftermarket parts... a couple of suggestions.
There were spacers used on Fiat 124/125 front discs with the correct 4x98 stud pattern which were about 5mm thick and should fix the problem. You don't need the two bolts to locate the hub- especially as you are going to have the spacer plate holding it all together- the one countersunk one is fine.
Otherwise have you looked at the possibility of using some washers to shim back the caliper holder? you might be able to sneak some clearance and move the caliper back on the other side?

 

[AndrewHarvey]

Contacted the suppliers- and a great Italian response..... Remove bolt and file calliper to fit..... Wonderful!!!!

 

[AndrewHarvey]

I got the spacers to fit. The wheel bolts will have to finish absolutely flush with the rear of the spacers, otherwise they will hit the calliper- should I use spring washers...... A little concerned that they are flat headed bolts - and the thread depth of the spacers isn't particularly deep.... I'm going to want them tight for when's flame spitting engine is on cam....

 

[stevehg]

Personally I wouldn't use washers to get the right length. With washers, if you or anyone else in the future accidentally fits a bolt without a washer it would be a costly mistake.

I'd say it's a better solution if you cut the bolts to the exact length you need to use all of the thread, but not protruding.

cheers, Steve

 

[AndrewHarvey]

Hi Steve
I planned the spring washers to guarantee tightness at all times.
The spacers only allow short square headed bolts rather than the long conical bolts modern cars use - allowing you to give them some " welly" when tightening.
Just don't want the bloody wheels to fall off.....

 

[the hobbler]

Morning Andrew;
To the best of my memory, the original Fiat wheel bolts didn't use lock-washers--I think we fitted plain bolts and did them up tight (I believe that there is a correct factory torque setting). Being that you are fitting alloy wheels, I would be tempted to use flat washers under the bolt-heads (to prevent damage to the wheels) and torque them up correctly--as ALL wheel bolts should be, irrespective of design!

 

[AndrewHarvey]

Hi Tom
my wheels are steel Borrannis and I'm concerned that the bolt length and spacers made of aluminium restricts the posibilities of a good tightening

 

[stevehg]

Hi Tom
my wheels are steel Borrannis and I'm concerned that the bolt length and spacers made of aluminium restricts the posibilities of a good tightening

You'll have no problem getting the factory torque levels. If you are unsure about the history of the wheel bolts, my advice would be to buy new in case the previous bolts have been abused by over tightening. Torque to factory settings, then recheck after 100 miles or so.

You don't need much thread engagement length to ensure that the bolt shears before the thread strips. For steel components and high tensile 8.8 bolts they are easy to remember, ~8mm for M10 and ~10mm for M12. You can try and see if there are some tables for aluminium alloys, but not knowing what alloy your spacers are it will be just a guide.

Using new bolts, and following factory torque levels should be perfectly good.

 

[AndrewHarvey]

Thank you for your advice

 

[AndrewHarvey]

Back on its wheels!

I know it will settle more but the stance is already more "purposeful"

I'm hoping to put it back on the road with as many of the original parts - so new wheels , dash pod, seats etc can be enjoyably improved.

Under the skin will be all new mind....

 

[AndrewHarvey]

this the ride height I'd like...

 

[stevehg]

What front spring are you running Andrew? I fitted a 5 leaf reverse and its sitting high at the front. I know it's got to settle, but it's been off the axle stands for the best part of a week and it's still high.

cheers, Steve

 

[AndrewHarvey]

Steve - I bought a second hand item.....it was practically straight.....but the "eyes" are conventional

It will be low - but I bet the wheels will rub......normally the arches would need rolling, but in time the front wings will be changed and the issue of rubbing will be taken care of then.

I've shortened rear springs with non linear winding- does the more tightly wound end mount top or bottom?

 

[stevehg]

Steve - I bought a second hand item.....it was practically straight.....but the "eyes" are conventional

It will be low - but I bet the wheels will rub......normally the arches would need rolling, but in time the front wings will be changed and the issue of rubbing will be taken care of then.

I've shortened rear springs with non linear winding- does the more tightly wound end mount top or bottom?

In theory it shouldn't matter which way you mount progressive springs, but the perceived wisdom is to mount the lower poundage wider spaced coils at the top. This is how I've mounted them in the past on LR's and I did the same with the 500 rears.

cheers, Steve