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Tuning Canterbury 695

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Tuning Canterbury 695

So doors built - race number fitted - just need some daylight time to fit them
Dashboard is also completed along with the Halda Speed Pilot speedo drive splitter
Windscreen fitting and electrical checks next.
Wheels have been returned with tyres now fitted - Borrani stickers applied
It's beginning to feel a lot like Christmas......
 
HaHa or HoHo!
It's not complete and the building of doors don't photograph so well!
I promise pictures this weekend
 
:D
Anyone can photograph a completed car, they don't need to own it or have worked on it.
I think many of us love to see the build detail...mistakes, problems and all; that's where a lot of the interest and fun?:bang::cry::nutter::spin: is.
 
Sorry - no work on the machine - so no photos - too many promises to small people!!!
Doors to hang and windscreen to fit.....maybe next week!!
 
Andrew, if anone knows this then you will.
When spotlights are fixed to an accessory bar or to an "L"-type front over-rider bar, they presumably need steadying. It looks like an angled aluminium section is used as a stay, which would be bolted to the front panel of the car.
I can see how that could be fabricated very easily but have you come across a ready-made part to fit that purpose?
 
Desmo make a very affordable "badge bracket" in stainless that allows a connection between a badge bar with spotlights and a stainless right angled brackets to be bolted to front panel
All in £25... and steady as you like

Minimum weight .....honest.....
 
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AndrewHarvey said:
Desmo make a very affordable "badge bracket" in stainless that allows a connection between a badge bar with spotlights and a stainless right angled brackets to be bolted to front panel
All in £25... and steady as you like
Click to expand...

I like that idea but I am more impressed with this way of using the later-style tubular over-rider...not so keen on the appearance of the little stays above the lamps.
uk.pinterest.com by Peter Thompson, on Flickr
Because this already has four fixing points and if you add a support for the light which either clamps over the bar or has a bolt which goes through it, then you will have a very steady mounting for the lamps.
The example in the image shows it quite clearly but I feel is a bit heavy-duty and over-sized, but the principle is goood.
 
I ditched my "lusso" over riders early on and bought a stainless Desmo badge bar
I treated my bumpers to Gtech C1 treatment and rust has still reappeared.- so stainless bumpers will now match the stainless mounting bar......just the "rust in front of your eyes" Giannini over riders to sort......
 
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Peter, having been involved (in the Group 4 era) with rallying I can confirm that the top stay not only supports the spotlamp it maintains the adjustment of it and believe me even if the lower mounts look substantial the lamp WILL vibrate and flap fore and aft without the top support. At night on a stage the last thing you need is a wandering spotlight!!!!!(y)(y)(y)

Ian.
 
Bleeding Knuckles said:
I can confirm that the top stay not only supports the spotlamp it maintains the adjustment of it and believe me even if the lower mounts look substantial the lamp WILL vibrate and flap fore and aft without the top support.

Ian.
Click to expand...

It's good to get that first hand Ian; but I'm definitely not planning to rally any car...least of all a 500.:eek: If I did I would definitely go for one of those Steyr-Puch engines; have you heard how they scream!!!!
I'm just thinking ahead to when I rebuild my other 500 which I want to be able to take anywhere at any time of the day or the year.
I've been fooled into thinking my lights were adequate because the dynamo was kicking out too many volts. I have been driving quite a lot at night recently (no choice up here in winter in the north) and I'm finding it quite challenging.
I wouldn't want Andrew's amazing array but a couple of additional, lightweight modern driving lights would do the trick and maybe look almost acceptable.
I'm kidding myself that because such mods were done to these cars in antiquity, if done in a restrained way I'm not breaking with originality.:ROFLMAO:
These are the ones that VdL sell although I have found loads of sources and varying prices.
http://www.myhellalights.com/index....ogen-lamps/500-series/hella-500-driving-lamp/
 
fiat500 said:
It's good to get that first hand Ian; but I'm definitely not planning to rally any car...least of all a 500.:eek: If I did I would definitely go for one of those Steyr-Puch engines; have you heard how they scream!!!!
I'm just thinking ahead to when I rebuild my other 500 which I want to be able to take anywhere at any time of the day or the year.
I've been fooled into thinking my lights were adequate because the dynamo was kicking out too many volts. I have been driving quite a lot at night recently (no choice up here in winter in the north) and I'm finding it quite challenging.
I wouldn't want Andrew's amazing array but a couple of additional, lightweight modern driving lights would do the trick and maybe look almost acceptable.
I'm kidding myself that because such mods were done to these cars in antiquity, if done in a restrained way I'm not breaking with originality.:ROFLMAO:
These are the ones that VdL sell although I have found loads of sources and varying prices.
http://www.myhellalights.com/index....ogen-lamps/500-series/hella-500-driving-lamp/
Click to expand...

Hi Peter, Yes it's sometimes difficult as to how far you go with mods and the Hella lamps are a good make. My car has had H4 lamps fitted along with a relay to stop the old wiring cooking, but having never driven at night I cannot comment on how good or bad the mod is (only one way to find out!!) I don't know how old my battery is but as it's 12V 45A 300 it should be ok with the H4 lamps providing the engine is turning the alternator, without the lights suck the battery dry in about two minutes!!!!

Ian.
 
It would appear i have modding madness as there is nothing original in my build......i think i have more thinking time than doing time....
Completed the body coloured strip that replaces the canvass roof fixing. Needed rivnuts for the two end fixings - fresh paint and compression tool leads to sweaty palms....
Stainless bumpers ordered- ive lost patience with the "rust in 30 mins" italian items....
Currently foxed over how to modify the wiring for the "long lever" type switch i bought for the wipers.......
The fuel line issue will be resolved this week also.....small steps....but progress
Then get doors to close well and windscreen fitted.....
Cannot wait to put the proper wheels on to see the stance.....but other jobs first.
 
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Had a full days work on the car......it's so nearly finished.
I've decided to get the windscreen fitted as I have injured my back (carrying a small child!) and it's a job with trouble written all over it.
Finished front suspension setup , electric fuel pump, fuel tank fancy rest number plate and bonnet
Pictures in the morning.
Tomorrow is setting rear suspension and electrical tests ..... there is a lot of electrical mods to test..... eight gauges, multiple LED and warning lights and of course ALL the external lighting.
Then fancy exhaust...
 
Finished the works style hardtop, had the screen fitted and have rejetted the Dellorto FZD 32/28.
Dellorto UK calculated the jet sizes required for the build spec of my engine. Hopefully will make the engine tractable enough to run in before for the drive to the rolling road....
Got to buy some rocket fuel this weekend 100RON + the octane booster.
Final issue is to resolve the handbrake of the disc brakes....
 
Andrew, you mention 100RON fuel, I hope that you are not considering AVGAS ??
Having worked in aviation with Piston and Turbine engines I have found that AVGAS is only suitable in a four stroke car engine IF the engine has been prepared for it's use. modern unleaded fuel has many additives (both super and normal) AVGAS does not. The main problem is that Piston Aviation engines use Sodium Cooled valves as the combustion process is so much hotter. Unless you have this type of valve fitted you stand the risk of burnt valve seats and due to heat hot spots the erosion of the valve itself. You may get away with mixing AVGAS with Super, but unless the fuel is carefully mixed and the ratio's known you will never know what effective RON you are using. I would council great care with AVGAS and expect an engine rebuild soon if you do use it - good luck:eek::eek:

Ian.
 
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I plan to buy 100RON and use a recognized octane booster to get to 102RON - this is the recommendation of my engine builder.
I have a high compression ratio and my understanding is that boosted RON levels will be needed for optimum running.
I also plan to run a special high performance air cooled oil - its the same that i used in my hotted up air cooled 911's
 
AndrewHarvey said:
I plan to buy 100RON and use a recognized octane booster to get to 102RON - this is the recommendation of my engine builder.
I have a high compression ratio and my understanding is that boosted RON levels will be needed for optimum running.
I also plan to run a special high performance air cooled oil - its the same that i used in my hotted up air cooled 911's
Click to expand...

Interesting info about the octane level Andrew, I'm using Esso super with Millers booster at the moment it will be interesting to see how things run when the ambient temperatures get into the high 20's (c) ;);) I'm using Mobil 1 10W 60 at the moment what's in your donkey???

Ian.
 
Had a mighty frustrating day fitting my exhaust.
Firstly had to have the exhaust elbows machined to fit the new system.
Then it fouled the hot air duct.
Then it fouled the lever on the starter motor.
This is why everything takes sooo long....
I could of left the cheap sports exhaust on......but i kinda knew it would be better to get the fancy system fitted now so when its finished.....its finished.
Keen to see what the clever coating does to the engine bay temps.
Do i leave all the tin work off for airflow or fit it to shield it from the silencer?
The silencer is carbon fibre.
And flames come out...
And its loud...
 
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