Technical '06 Panda crank sensor issue.....

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Technical '06 Panda crank sensor issue.....

Bcm both codes and on the internet they mentioned that these errors are for a faulty bcm and if this dry joint you were talking about is the issue shouldn't the chip be not readable? Or this is not related? And what do you want me to do if it is indeed dry? Spray some Electronic contact cleaner or something else?
 
That's mine. Waiting for you to tell me what to put on it
 

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Got a key will replace them but the question is now what's next? Or do you want me to spray some contact cleaner on it as it is out?
 
You don't normally get the D600 error

The scan tool isn't great but if the internet is correct D600 is the same as U1600 in the BCM is an incorrect read of the key

U1600 random in the ECU is fairly normal on a flat battery

We need to confirm it's random or a new problem

It was looking very good at one point as there were no ECU or BCM errors after cranking except
for the 9022 which has always been there

Let's go back a step, with a charged battery

Clear the codes and check the codes are cleared

Disconnect the battery and reconnect it, just to start the BCM and ECU software from a fresh start not from sleep state

Without cranking and watching the volts turn the ignition on and watch the voltage and dash lights a few times

Recheck the codes but don't crank the car yet
 
Want me to add an extra external battery with jump start cables?
Nope, not needed

All earth's checked fine

Do you have a couple of thinner black earth's connected on the top of the valve cover

There's usually one on the front and one on the back rear

Wonder why my phone didn't beep, push notification failed
 
Nope, not needed

All earth's checked fine

Do you have a couple of thinner black earth's connected on the top of the valve cover

There's usually one on the front and one on the back rear

Wonder why my phone didn't beep, push notification failed
No I don't have any extra connected to the valve cover and I'm missing a lot of notifications being delayed about half an hour no idea why
 
I can put some thick wires if needed but after what we tested so far it's all good and not needed right?
 
Strange I have a very similar car but the ECU is placed differently

Do yours have the one single coil pack red arrow

Here's the location of the two earth's on my car
Yellow arrows

s-l1200~2.jpg


Does the bottom right one look as if it's ever had one, is there a bolt in the hole
 
Mine is similar but my coil packs are 2 in the location of the yellow arrows on your picture
 
Now there is a possibility that the coils had a ground on them and were removed sometime with the previous owner
 
mmm like my 06 panda had its been awhile since I have worked on one with the two coil

I cant remember where the grounds are on that car let me see
 
Ok so this is my whole engine the orange are empty 10mm bolts that i think are what you are talking about but that are empty and the red arrows are my coil packs but the thing is the air intake and filter will be mounter right above these 10mm holes so i have no idea how the wiring will go to the valve cover whether it'll be from behind or above the battery but still all 3 terminals on the negative clamps are used otherwise it'll need to be either merged or to the chassis.
If you have a photo of similar engine than mine I'd like to know where i should add some wires
 

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Now there is a void chassis bolt coming out almost behind the brake oil cap that is covered in paint, but I'm not sure if it serves to hold some termal insulation preventing heat from going to the inside of the car or had a ground wire to it
 
Alright so first ECU is showing RPM dashboard isn't,oil light goes out after 3 seconds of cranking approximately whereas the battery light stays on and as you can see in the picture everything is normal ECU wise the first dip is pressing the brakes to shift into neutral then the second big one with the RPM is when cranking but the dashboard RPM needle is still dead at 0
 

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