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Panda (Classic) Snatch Panda

Introduction

It's taken a while but I'm going to try uploading some photos..

Inspired by Snatch Land Rovers deployed to Gulf War I, Afghanistan and previously in Northern Ireland, I wondered how the Panda version might have turned out..

Dragonman gave me a useful kick early on and David, Aquamarine has been wonderfully helpful throughout -thank you both.

Things got a bit loose with the interpretation as I got carried away - so the mudflaps aren't necessary (but I like how rally cars look) and the bonnet lamps are because of a soft spot for the Matra Rancho. - Please be reassured that only a rusty bonnet was harmed in the making of this modification.

Similarly - all the changes can be undone fairly easily if Sisley prices continue to head for the stratosphere.. So I didn't paint the grill and I have kept a good unmodified bullbar to one side.

Hope you like it. Let me know what you think.
As above plus this thing is made to fit panda sump guard and it looks much much better than plain sheet of steel and it does have more rigidity as well cause of those pressing.

Mitsu Shogun/Pajero middle belly plate/ sump guard not more than £10 from local scrappy.

I've use it as skid plate recently, no dents just scratches.

If neccesary I can take off the plate only, leaving the frame bolted down ( or up)
 

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Damage assessment after last weekend's action:

Prop shaft/exhaust "I'm harder than you" battle broken out -


Interesting dent in the fuel tank (yikes!) -

(Lesson here is probably something about having your daughter in the back while driving in interesting places.)

And most intriguing, I think this crack in the B-pillar has extended. -


I think it first cracked when I had that bump but I think the crack's grown. Anyone else done this to their's?
 
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Nice collection though.


B-pillar crack - I would say results of weak inner sills, at least that's why my black one had tine ones.
Sisley is booked today for damage assessment and rear shocks swap, report will be done as well.
 
Oh well - I'll just ignore that then.

Changing the subject to less depressing topics, panda1408 and I conducted a controlled (but childish) experiment on Sunday into the relative speed capabilities of our vehicles (closed, test track, no animals were harmed, etc.).

We were also talking about 1.4 16v swaps into 4x4s and the possibilities that will result. - Well after a further experiment (see above for all the caveats) I can report that even the humble 1.2 16v can quite swiftly propel a 4x4 Panda into the rev limiter in 5th gear, and on 14" wheels. The resulting top speed being something beginning with a '1' -plus a handful.

In other words, it's arguably under-geared, cruising in lane three is fine but noisy at 5000 - 5500 rpm.

Just some thoughts for future swappers. A hybrid Punto/Panda box would be nice one day.
 
I will concede defeat and can confirm that a 1.2 16v Panda is faster than a Land Rover, perhaps not too surprising, but maybe closer than you would think. Ultimately it suffers from the same lack of gearing as the Panda.

When (If!) I do a 1.4 swap then higher ratios will be looked at, from what I have read using a final drive from a 2wd Panda box, a fairly high fifth gear ratio could be achieved, the only downside being that 1st gear would also be taller, not great for off road work. Plenty of thought required I think to work out what is the best way to go.

A far as the B pillar cracks, seems common, but if it is getting worse I may be inclined to go with Jacobs prognosis.
 
When (If!) I do a 1.4 swap then higher ratios will be looked at, from what I have read using a final drive from a 2wd Panda box, a fairly high fifth gear ratio could be achieved, the only downside being that 1st gear would also be taller, not great for off road work. Plenty of thought required I think to work out what is the best way to go.

A far as the B pillar cracks, seems common, but if it is getting worse I may be inclined to go with Jacobs prognosis.

I wouldn't want a higher first. At times it still needs some brake to control speed in the rough stuff when trickling at Land Rover low ratio speeds would be perfect. I'd also say that the chassis isn't really up to three figure speeds as it comes out of the box.. but then I'm a wimp these days. And finally mud tyres rated to speeds like these need finding before that Nurburgring bridge to gantry record is attempted.

How do old style electric overdrives fit?

I'm convinced Jacob's prognosis is spot on. - That's why I'm ignoring it.:rolleyes:
 
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I wouldn't want a higher first. At times it still needs some brake to control speed in the rough stuff when trickling at Land Rover low ratio speeds would be perfect. I'd also say that the chassis isn't really up to three figure speeds as it comes out of the box.. but then I'm a wimp these days. And finally mud tyres rated to speeds like these need finding before that Nurburgring bridge to gantry record is attempted.

How do old style electric overdrives fit?

I'm convinced Jacob's prognosis is spot on. - That's why I'm ignoring it.:rolleyes:

So ideally we need to work out how to lower first so it is a true low range but add a higher fifth for relaxed cruising at sensible speeds, with the ability to achieve silly speeds should the need arise and the driver is brave/stupid enough.

You would need three overdrives, one for each front driveshaft and one for the prop shaft, they are usually a separate unit bolted in between gearbox and diff, so only of any use on RWD or on Land Rovers where they fit onto the transfer box.
 
Next in the series - "What have you used first gear for?"



Two German chaps I found with the bonnet up at the side of the road. They were hoping to make Glasgow tonight but it looked as though one of the fuel pumps preferred that they spend the night in Liverpool.



First gear towed them to outside GSF which I hope will help with the fix tomorrow.
Good luck chaps.
 
I report this just in case anyone else comes across it:

Prop shaft disconnected, hard acceleration in 1st, 2nd or 3rd and a very nasty transmission grinding, crashing, clash of metal on metal comes through the transmission.

Prop shaft reconnected. - Nothing.

My current theory is that the 4x4 dogs can slide into contact independent of the engagement lever's position; which isn't a problem when they're both turning at the same speed, but alarming when one set is stopped.

Snatch can accelerate a bit quicker than a 999cc 4x4 but not that much. Has anyone else observed this phenomenon..?
 
I drove my 4x4s without the prop shaft several times, but did not notice ths phenomena. Maby 4x4 on/off mechanism is not adjusted or is damaged, bent etc.. and is not disconecting fully?
 
Yes this shouldn't be an issue. I drove back from Italy with the shaft disconnected...although this was disconnected at the rear diff. Is yours disconnected only at the front. Maybe the centre shaft is wobbling free on its rubber mounts (assuming you still have good prop shaft mounts!)
 
Disconnected only at the rear. I'm sure it's a thing though because I can drive around it by only using reduced torque when accelerating, and it did it when the whole prop was off.

Also, usual damage assessment after weekend's fun has produced just one new issue - head unit failing to pull in Radio 4. Won't be needing the welder for that one.
 
Disconnected only at the rear. I'm sure it's a thing though because I can drive around it by only using reduced torque when accelerating, and it did it when the whole prop was off.

Also, usual damage assessment after weekend's fun has produced just one new issue - head unit failing to pull in Radio 4. Won't be needing the welder for that one.

That's very uncivilised but hopefully you can re-educate the head unit.

Damage assessment on our car was made easy by a propshaft vibration at low speeds on the drive home. Looking quickly at (ssh, sorry mods) the Mk3 forum suggests wear in the mounts is a common problem but refurb is possible. I may need to explore in the next room.
 
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