mattprince
Member
Hi, my wipers and heater blowers don't work. Checked the fuses by the steering wheel and all looks good. Anything else it could be apart from the motors?
Technical Wipers and heater blowers don't work
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Technical Wipers and heater blowers don't work
mattprince
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It's a 2007 2.3 version.
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Hi Matt
I attach schematics for the Wipers and the Heater Blower (non aircon version). They don't share any common 12 volt supply, but they do both make use of the Left Front Ground point (along with a fair number of other things).
Is anything else not working ?
Is there voltage getting to the motors positive (non ground) sides ?
It's possible that you genuinely have two independent faults. The thermal cutout inside the wiper motor can go dodgy, try tapping the casing with a soft hammer with the wipers switched on, this can sometimes provoke it into working. The heater motor can seize up, but check it is getting supply voltage and ground first. The connectors to the speed control and the resistor pack carry high currents and can corrode/burn so take a look at these. Faulty resistor packs will stop low speeds from working, but resistors aren't used on max speed so this should still work.
I attach schematics for the Wipers and the Heater Blower (non aircon version). They don't share any common 12 volt supply, but they do both make use of the Left Front Ground point (along with a fair number of other things).
Is anything else not working ?
Is there voltage getting to the motors positive (non ground) sides ?
It's possible that you genuinely have two independent faults. The thermal cutout inside the wiper motor can go dodgy, try tapping the casing with a soft hammer with the wipers switched on, this can sometimes provoke it into working. The heater motor can seize up, but check it is getting supply voltage and ground first. The connectors to the speed control and the resistor pack carry high currents and can corrode/burn so take a look at these. Faulty resistor packs will stop low speeds from working, but resistors aren't used on max speed so this should still work.
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mattprince
Member
Cheers for the reply. The things that aren't working are..
Wipers
Heater blower
Also my clock is just flashing on the instrument panel but not sure how to change to at and stop it flashing. The little panel on the right of the steering wheel lower down has a button called mode but pressing it does nothing. *ignore it now works. I was pressing it too fast I think*
Matt
Wipers
Heater blower
Also my clock is just flashing on the instrument panel but not sure how to change to at and stop it flashing. The little panel on the right of the steering wheel lower down has a button called mode but pressing it does nothing. *ignore it now works. I was pressing it too fast I think*
Matt
Last edited:
mattprince
Member
To add, im not very clued up on electrics at all. I do have a multimeter somewhere, bought it to fry and learn but never got round to doing so. What do I put it on and do I just hold it on the positive and see what it reads
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Hi Matt
You should be able to find a guide to using a test meter on the internet. In the meantime here are the basics:
99% of voltage measurements are made relative to ground (the vehicle body/chassis and the engine/gearbox) which is where the battery negative is connected to. So the negative (black) meter probe needs to be connected to a good ground point. If you can get a spring clip to keep it there it makes life easier and keeps a hand free.
Set the meter to read DC volts, e.g. the 20 volt range. Some meters set the range automatically, so just select DC volts. Then take the positive (red) meter probe and apply it to the circuit you want to test. You might need to push the thin probe down the back of a connector till it touches the metal contact insert whilst the circuit is running. Alternatively, pull off the plug and probe directly on the appropriate contact, but this only checks things with no current being drained. Fuses often have a couple of tiny exposed metal parts on top (one each end) to allow probing.
Most measurements will be of items receiving full battery voltage, i.e. about 12.5 volts with the engine stopped and about 14.0 volts with the engine running and the battery under charge, so this is what the meter will read when they are powered on. Any ground points should measure no more than about 0.1 volts, any higher and it's usually a sign of a bad ground.
With the heater blower motor, power goes to the motor first, and then on full speed the motor is grounded via the speed control. On lower speeds a resistor is switched in, so for example you might see 12 volts on the motor input and 4 volts on the motor output. This means that the motor gets 8 volts and the rest is lost across the resistor.
With the wiper, main power and ground go to the motor body. Inside the body are the overload cutout and the electronic logic controls for the two speeds and the park function. These are controlled by the other 3 thin wires from the body contol module.
DIY vehicle electrics can be quite rewarding, and even if you later have to call in a specialist at least you can check the obvious and narrow down the fault. Good luck !
You should be able to find a guide to using a test meter on the internet. In the meantime here are the basics:
99% of voltage measurements are made relative to ground (the vehicle body/chassis and the engine/gearbox) which is where the battery negative is connected to. So the negative (black) meter probe needs to be connected to a good ground point. If you can get a spring clip to keep it there it makes life easier and keeps a hand free.
Set the meter to read DC volts, e.g. the 20 volt range. Some meters set the range automatically, so just select DC volts. Then take the positive (red) meter probe and apply it to the circuit you want to test. You might need to push the thin probe down the back of a connector till it touches the metal contact insert whilst the circuit is running. Alternatively, pull off the plug and probe directly on the appropriate contact, but this only checks things with no current being drained. Fuses often have a couple of tiny exposed metal parts on top (one each end) to allow probing.
Most measurements will be of items receiving full battery voltage, i.e. about 12.5 volts with the engine stopped and about 14.0 volts with the engine running and the battery under charge, so this is what the meter will read when they are powered on. Any ground points should measure no more than about 0.1 volts, any higher and it's usually a sign of a bad ground.
With the heater blower motor, power goes to the motor first, and then on full speed the motor is grounded via the speed control. On lower speeds a resistor is switched in, so for example you might see 12 volts on the motor input and 4 volts on the motor output. This means that the motor gets 8 volts and the rest is lost across the resistor.
With the wiper, main power and ground go to the motor body. Inside the body are the overload cutout and the electronic logic controls for the two speeds and the park function. These are controlled by the other 3 thin wires from the body contol module.
DIY vehicle electrics can be quite rewarding, and even if you later have to call in a specialist at least you can check the obvious and narrow down the fault. Good luck !
mattprince
Member
Cheers. Going have a go tomorrow. Going take the plug off the wiper motor. Ground the black lead to the body and then touch the red onto the positive of the plug. So should see 12v to that?
Communicator
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May I add to the advice given by @Anthony489. The wipers and heater blower are both relatively high current devices and as stated by Anthony do not share a common supply. The supplies are however both controlled by the Int/A (Interrupted Accessories) output of the ignition switch, via relays T12, and T08 respectively. Perhaps the easiest way to eliminate a problem with this function is if possible, to test for 12V at both ends of fuse F31, while it is still inserted. Fuse F31 is shown as being at the RH end of the bottom row in the cab fusebox. As a further aid to identification, at 7.5A rating it should be brown in colour.
mattprince
Member
The heater is now working. It was actually the fuse despite it looking fine. The wipers and squirters still not working. There was a spare 30a fuse there so tried that but still not working. Going to go Halfords tomatoes and get some new fuses and then if that doesn't work then can go from there. Cheers
mattprince
Member
There is a small fuse box down by the drivers seat but doesn't look like the ones that it shows on YouTube (optional fuse box)
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Hi Matt
There are two principal fuse boxes.
B001 is in the engine bay, on the right hand side as you look at it (UK passenger side). It's under a black plastic cover which is screwed down. This fuse/relay box deals mostly with high current items.
B002 is in the cab, on the UK drivers side in the lower dashboard and behind a grey plastic panel with a couple of philips screws. The fuses here are mostly for medium/low current items. The OBD socket is also here.
Sometimes, if vehicles are left standing and it's slightly damp the metal contact between fuse and fuseholder can suffer from corrosion. This results in a high resistance contact or no contact at all. Sometimes just pulling the fuse out and putting it back in a few times is enough to scrape off the tarnish and get things going again. The higher the current being drawn, the more you will see the effect of any poor connection.
You can check for 12 volts at the fuse using your volt meter. Connect the black (negative) probe to a good earth point. Connect the red (positive) probe in turn to each of the exposed "pips" of the fuse whilst it is still in-situ. If the fuse is powered and hasn't blown, you will see 12 volts at both the input and the output end. If the fuse isn't powered you will see no voltage at either end. If the fuse is powered but blown, you will see 12 volts at the input but no voltage at the output. If the fuse is blown, it should be obvious as there will be a gap in the metal of the fuse itself - this is designed to be easily visible through the transparent plastic once the fuse is pulled out and inspected. Fuses only blow for a reason, so don't just replace them without finding out what caused them to go.
There are two principal fuse boxes.
B001 is in the engine bay, on the right hand side as you look at it (UK passenger side). It's under a black plastic cover which is screwed down. This fuse/relay box deals mostly with high current items.
B002 is in the cab, on the UK drivers side in the lower dashboard and behind a grey plastic panel with a couple of philips screws. The fuses here are mostly for medium/low current items. The OBD socket is also here.
Sometimes, if vehicles are left standing and it's slightly damp the metal contact between fuse and fuseholder can suffer from corrosion. This results in a high resistance contact or no contact at all. Sometimes just pulling the fuse out and putting it back in a few times is enough to scrape off the tarnish and get things going again. The higher the current being drawn, the more you will see the effect of any poor connection.
You can check for 12 volts at the fuse using your volt meter. Connect the black (negative) probe to a good earth point. Connect the red (positive) probe in turn to each of the exposed "pips" of the fuse whilst it is still in-situ. If the fuse is powered and hasn't blown, you will see 12 volts at both the input and the output end. If the fuse isn't powered you will see no voltage at either end. If the fuse is powered but blown, you will see 12 volts at the input but no voltage at the output. If the fuse is blown, it should be obvious as there will be a gap in the metal of the fuse itself - this is designed to be easily visible through the transparent plastic once the fuse is pulled out and inspected. Fuses only blow for a reason, so don't just replace them without finding out what caused them to go.
mattprince
Member
Cheers for that. Will try that. Any idea what the optional fuse box down the right side behind the drivers seat and on the side pillar?
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Sounds like the convertor's fuse box. Not sure if the layout has changed much over the years, but the electrical section in the manual downloadable from the forum here:
https://www.fiatforum.com/downloads/ducato-x-290-converters-and-upfitters-manual.398/download
should give you a good idea.
https://www.fiatforum.com/downloads/ducato-x-290-converters-and-upfitters-manual.398/download
should give you a good idea.
mattprince
Member
Well, bought a new wiper motor, took the old one off and the arm that moves was siezed, wouldn’t move at all. Fitted the new one and it works. Only issue with that is not sure if the wiper arms are the correct ones as lifting the bonnet catches on the drivers side one.
Regarding the heater. It’s stopped working again. Sometimes works, sometimes doesn’t. Any ideas on that?
Regarding the heater. It’s stopped working again. Sometimes works, sometimes doesn’t. Any ideas on that?
