Seicento Which gearbox?

[Jeffrey Fairbrother]

Hello, I have recently discovered that I need a new clutch kit for my 51 Seicento 1.1 SX. Whenever I make an enquiry with a motor factor they ask me which gearbox the car has. Apparently it could be a C526 or a C514 ( Although some say there are even more possibilities). I phoned 2 different Fiat dealers to try and establish the gearbox type, but they did not know, neither did they know if there was a stamp on the gearbox that would indicate a type. Does anyone know how to tell? I have already had to change the clutch pedal linkage rod which snapped at the ball joint, which indicated clutch problems. Fiat wanted £91 for this 4 inch length of mild steel, luckily a scrap yard obliged for less than a tenner. Is this the most overpriced Fiat part of all time?

 

[Pep0]

google eurocarcare for their telephone number ring them with your log book to hand you may get a discount if you say fiat forum.

 

[Ouby]

It's cast into the end of the gearbox (nearest point to the wheel).

 

[fingers99]

Easy way: if you have a reverse detente (you can't get reverse without pushing down or pulling up on the gear lever), you have a C514.

But yes, the casting bears the gearbox type.

Alternatively, if you look along the driveshafts towards the differential, the C526 has an enormous rubber gaitor which extends right to the differential, the C514 has a quite seperate inner CV joint.

For all that, I think the clutches are identical.

 

[blu73]

For all that, I think the clutches are identical.

can't see how or why they would be different but they do have different part numbers... :shrug:

 

[Pep0]

all true but the op is phoning Fiat dealers and complaining about the >>>>>£

a factor or big Mick of eurocarcare will be <<<<£?

The OEM clutch kits are not wonderful?

 

[fingers99]

The OEM ones are fine. Eventually they all seem to fail on the thrust bearing, but that's partly down to folk riding the clutch (exactly how they were taught not to!) and to bad design (which everyone seems to follow.

Valeo (who may have been taken over by someone else now -- I recently received a Valeo clutch in someone elses outer wrapping!) -- are OK.

 

[blu73]

oem clutches i have found to be fine too, my old turbo had its original clutch until 97k and was turbo most of its life, and even then it was only slightly slipping on full boost.

I bought one recently, cheapest place at the time i could find was shop4parts (with forum discount). 2nd place by just a few quid were Eurocarcare.net on this occasion.

 

[Pep0]

Hi Blue

this means you can drive my auto came with a green rear window sticker that girl had used post her test to stop people tailgating...

the clutch only lasted a month after purchase

lots of people treat the clutch like it was a grope

clutch grope gettit?

Thanks for £ advice

 

[blu73]

i think the weakest point is as fingers said the thrust bearing, and in turn the pressure plate get worn and so clutch isn't ever properly disengaging blah blah. So many people sit in traffic with the clutch down all the day rather than in neutral and that's what kills them.
For a clutch to last only a few months there has to have been a manufacturing flaw or something, do you know what was actually wrong with it after said few months??

 

[Jeffrey Fairbrother]

Thanks for your efforts, I have taken on board the information. I am now told that the Quadrant may be broken also. I am aware that this is not an expensive part but is fiddly and time consuming.

 

[Pep0]

remove pass seat first.

undo 8x fastners from dashboard and ease back 3cm on wiring for better access don't use force

 

[Jeffrey Fairbrother]

Earlier I stated that the Clutch Pedal Linkage Rod at £91.05 (4 inches of weak steel) was overpriced, but I have now decided that the Quadrant (A couple of inches of thin weak white plastic) at £9 equals it in terms of cheek.