Technical Uno engine problem

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Technical Uno engine problem

uno11ies

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Hi as my nick saysI have an uno 1,1 ies ,the model is 1993.
As the top gasket was damaged and water ran into the cylinders ,I replaced that ,and now it wont run clean, when the throttle pedal is pushed it dies out and you have to constantly pump and let it go to keep it running.

if I pour small amounts of gas down into the carb/injection place it runs properly,I swapped the pump and fuel filter as I thought that was the problem ,but still no solution ,can it be any electrical fault,injection ****?
:bang::bang::bang:
 
Fiat uno has a "learning" ECU so it may have remembered wrong settings, when HG has gone. Disconnect battery terminal over night to reset it.

If this won't help check if everything is connected properly (vacuum hoses, sensors etc.

It's possible that cam belt was not fitted correcly, or you have wrong adjustment at distributor.
 
I will disconnect the battery ,do you know how to adjust the distributor and cam belt if in wrong position? ,also Im wondering if I should be able to blow trough the vacuum hose that runs from the injection house over to the distributor, there is a round thing mounted on top of it,when I blow in the hose it lets air straight trough,shouldn't there be vacuum there?
 
For adjusting distributor you need a strobe light, you have two bolts to untighten, and then you rotate whole distributor.

If your timing belt is fitted correctly check here https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-technical/19733-photos-timing-marks-8v-f-i-r-e-engines.html

You have timing mark at flywheely so you don't need to remove crank pulley

You should be able to blow through the hose that goes to throttle body, but you should not be able to blow through round thing (vacuum advance regulator)
 
Thank you for the answers ,do you know any guides that show how the strobe light is used?. Could the vacuum advance be the cause ? I can blow and suck on it and no vacuum occurs.
 
If vacuum advance is bad, than idle is rough and consumption is higher, but otherwise engine runs OK.

I never used strobe light, but I know that you trigger it from HV (spark) cable, hold it near opening in transmission bell, where you look at marks (degrees) and rotate distributor until correct marks are aligned. Find Haynes manual.

If you don't have strobe light, try to move it a little in both directions and check if it makes any difference
 
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the problem is that it doesn't run ,i have to sit and pump the gas like a maniac,and cant hold the pedal in any spot for a constant rpm,if i do so it dies out.
 
Check if inlet and outlet fuel hoses are at right places. I'm getting out of ideas :confused:

I think I had the same symptoms when I forgot to connect throttle potentiometer
 
It's located at right side of throttle body and gives ECU information how hard are you pressing accelerator
 
It's located at right side of throttle body and gives ECU information how hard are you pressing accelerator

The fault was a after market fuel pump that the previous owner had installed,removed it and the car purrs like a kitten,may need to swap the vacuum thingy though
 
I don't get how you put it back together, do you take those 1 cm cuts and bend them over each to one side? no gluing ?

the vacuum guide.
 
I used glue, it's used mainly as sealant. You should be able to bend them back if you do it at opposite sides, not going around

I will try to find a better picture
 
I might add here that I got my advance apart by prising the folded lip out flat using a flat head screwdriver. The metal is soft enough to get it apart without cutting. Resealed with pliers. Does anyone here set the idle with the advance plugged in?
 
Does anyone here set the idle with the advance plugged in?

Yes, I did that once in desperation at trying to get an engine to idle smoothly. I set it to 10 degrees advance with the vacuum connected to the leaky advance capsule. 10 degrees always worked OK for the old FIAT 128 so I thought it would be about right for the Uno.

However...

- with an Uno 70, there should be no vacuum advance at idle (the vacuum pickup is above the throttle plate). Therefore, disconnecting it makes no difference. The static advance is 5-10 degrees, depending on model version.

- with a FIRE, there should be a significant amount of vacuum advance at idle (the vacuum pickup is below the throttle); maybe that's why the capsule gives up so often!

- with a FIRE, the correct static advance is 3 degrees (some manuals say 5 degrees) at a slow idle with the vacuum advance disconnected and the pipe plugged. When you connect the vacuum advance, the timing goes to about 15 degrees and the engine speed picks up a lot. I can testify that with a not-leaking vacuum advance capsule and the timing set correctly, the idling is PERFECT (y)

-Alex
 
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