Technical uno clutch problems

[Fizzix]

hi guys..first post

its not actually my uno but a freinds..
anyway..

clutch wont disengage the engine, so gears wont go in at all they just crunch..its a 1.0 fiat fire engine.

any ideas?...things to try etc?

 

[Chas Uno]

What model year is it? Mk1 or mk2?

I'm guessing it's a mk2 and the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder has gone. This sits on top of the gearbox and actuates the clutch lever. Check the fluid level/ bleed it and see if that works.

If it is a mk1 then it is a cable operated and there's little to go wrong other than a snapped cable!

 

[ralphnz]

If it is a mk1 then it is a cable operated and there's little to go wrong other than a snapped cable!

Isn't that the truth. Such wonderfully simple cars:yum:

 

[Fizzix]

do you bleed the clutch the same as bleeding the brakes?

where is the bleed nipple?

if its not that how can i tell if its the slave cylinder? and is that an easy job to replace? got a pic o exactually where it sits?

and its a mk2

only has 26k on it...

 

[Uno driver]

I've never seen hydraulic cluch in mk2 Uno-s, even my punto mk1 has cable operated clutch.

 

[Chas Uno]

do you bleed the clutch the same as bleeding the brakes?

where is the bleed nipple?

if its not that how can i tell if its the slave cylinder? and is that an easy job to replace? got a pic o exactually where it sits?

and its a mk2

only has 26k on it...

I don't know for sure how to bleed the clutch as I've never done one. However, the classic symptom of a failed slave cylinder is a gradually disappearing clutch pedal over time followed by the clutch sinking to the floor with no effect. Also check for leaks around the cylinder. The bleed nipple is on the slave cylinder itself.

Here's a thread from Louie B. detailing his hydraulic clutch problems:

https://www.fiatforum.com/uno-technical/29364-hydraulic-clutch.html

I've never seen hydraulic cluch in mk2 Uno-s, even my punto mk1 has cable operated clutch.

Here's the hydraulic slave cylinder on my mk2 'H' reg Uno 70SX. It sits on top of the gearbox opposite the clutch actuating arm - you can see it underneath a metal cover with a pipe/ union going into it. As far as I know all UK mk2 Unos have hydraulic clutches (with the possible exception of 903cc models), and the same goes for Puntos. My Punto 75SX had a hydraulic clutch with the slave cylinder on top of the gearbox much the same as the Uno. All my mk1 Unos have had cable clutches.

 

[Uno driver]

My Uno mk2 60S FIRE 1992, Uno mk2 1.1 ie 1993 and Punto 55S 1995 all have cable operated clutches, also Uno 1.0 1997 that I was repairing had cable. Yes, it's possible that UK Unos are different, because they are RHD.

 

[Louie Bee]

For the UK market, every post August 1992 Uno was fitted with a Single point injection (apart from Turbo IE and Diesel I think) cat converter, and hydraulic clutch.

For other parts of the world, I can’t be sure, but I know Morty Mort in Norway has a cable operated box (C513) where we have the hydraulic box (C513) for the fire engine.

If you look here, this is how I replaced and bled the slave cylinder on my 1.0 IE uno

https://www.fiatforum.com/uno-technical/29364-hydraulic-clutch.html

Now it could be the hydraulic clutch system, or if it’s only done 26K from new, it sounds like an Uno that’s had a harder mechanicallife to me...

I say that cos it’s these low mileage cars that tend to be owned by the older generation who are often hard of hearing, and the clutch gets a hard life too – sorry to generalise Gran.

Now if the clutch is like the one I took out of my Uno a number of months ago, there will be little left of a lot of the fins on the clutch cover, so the clutch reliese bearing has less to push on – hence crunch crunch . Till this happened to me, I thought when a clutch went, you could get out of gear no problem, but the clutch slipped all the time.. how wrong?

Hope it’s the hydraulics as the clutch job is a rather long and tricky job, perhaps left to the more experienced.

 

[Fizzix]

yeah the clutch has been slowly moving and the biting point was getting VERY low..

i will check it all on sat and give you the feed back, thanks for the help guys

also if its not the slave cylinder??...is the master cylinder linked to the clutch too? or is ther eone resevour for the brakes and one for the clutch?

 

[Chas Uno]

yeah the clutch has been slowly moving and the biting point was getting VERY low..

That sounds like a classic case of a failed clutch cylinder.

also if its not the slave cylinder??...is the master cylinder linked to the clutch too? or is ther eone resevour for the brakes and one for the clutch?

One for the brakes and one for the clutch. The brake master cylinder is connected to the brake servo on the bulkhead. The clutch master cylinder is on top of the gearbox. They are totally seperate systems!

Good luck and let the forum know how you get on.

 

[Chas Uno]

My Uno mk2 60S FIRE 1992, Uno mk2 1.1 ie 1993 and Punto 55S 1995 all have cable operated clutches, also Uno 1.0 1997 that I was repairing had cable. Yes, it's possible that UK Unos are different, because they are RHD.

That's interesting. What country are these Unos and Puntos from?

 

[Louie Bee]

the biting point was getting VERY low..

Yer Chas, but this it what happened to mine before I replaced the clutch with a worn out cover .

before hand, I ended up removing the driver's mat so I could press the pedal down more. The car was still edging forwards with the clutch pressed all the way down. Crunch into every gear.

Could still be the hydraulics though

 

[Uno driver]

That's interesting. What country are these Unos and Puntos from?

From Slovenia, but also in Italy Unos have cable operated clutches, I'm not sure about Puntos. I will check next time I go over there

In Italy Unos have no problems with rust - doors, sills are like new on 15 years old Unos and other rust prone cars.

 

[Fizzix]

but when it was working fine the clutch wasnt slipping..infact it was totally fine

then all of a suddden it started to loose biting point then no biting point at all..

anyway will let you all know

 

[Louie Bee]

but when it was working fine the clutch wasnt slipping..infact it was totally fine

then all of a suddden it started to loose biting point then no biting point at all..

anyway will let you all know

A worn or contaminated clutch driven plate causes clutch slip. A worn clutch cover on my Uno caused very low bite point and crunchy gear change, but no slip what so ever.

The clutch driven plate, cover and release bearing are replaced together

 

[Fizzix]

started on it today, wasnt the bolt on type it was housed in like a metal cage with a circlip.

lots of banging to try and take it out backwards and ti finally came out..

wait till tues for new one to arrive..

 

[Landie]

I have a uno cento 1100 which had a gradually disappearing clutch pedal over time followed by the clutch sinking to the floor with no effect.
I am a very capable girl and am keen to try and fix it myself - is this realistic??" (my husband does not like working on cars at all, wont even try.... it's all about computers for him) Seriously, could i do it??

 

[a73uk]

Yes, you should be able to, they are simple & most things, including this, are fixable with very basic tools. Just follow the rough guide described in this thread.

The only thing that may be a concern is getting a slave cylinder over there, assuming you have the hydraulic clutch system.

I have a uno cento 1100 which had a gradually disappearing clutch pedal over time followed by the clutch sinking to the floor with no effect.
I am a very capable girl and am keen to try and fix it myself - is this realistic??" (my husband does not like working on cars at all, wont even try.... it's all about computers for him) Seriously, could i do it??

 

[Hyperspace]

Yep, its pretty easy, if it is the "clutch servo" above the pedal, it is a mission to get out unless you are a contortionist. My back was screwed for 3 days, and I pulled a neck muscle... In hind sight might be easier with seat removed. I suggest you re-kit both (the pedal and gearbox side ones) as the rubbers in both are the same material exposed to the same hydraulic fluid for the same amount of time. Sadly the same can be said for the braking system, including the cylinders on the rear drums (they are cheap to completely replace).

Key thing is to realy check out, andmaybe photograp things as you take them appart. Things like the rubber O-rings on the ends of the internal bits often only work one way around, yet will fit either way.

Also chek and feel that cylinder bores and pistons are not rough or worn.

Parafin works great for cleaning realy dirty car parts and you can just rinse it off with some dish soap.

Get the original kit for your job, the fong kong stuff from autozone does not last, and you'll be redoing the job in a year.

I think you may need a needle tip pliers to unclip the internal circlip, its not too expensive, and a must have tool for a diyer.

Otherwise its just a matter of unscrewing, disassembly, recording, remove old rubbers, clean, fit new rubbers, double check, and reassemble and instal.

Cheers from the Cape.

Oh and you can get replacement cylinders, but get OEM, through their dealer network. I got a 3rd party one that didn't last.
We ended up makeing a hybrid for my car from the two halves (old and new) with a bit of grinding, thats done about 12k without issues now.