General Uno 60S Driveshaft seals

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General Uno 60S Driveshaft seals

Brymak

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Nov 17, 2004
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My Uno is leaking tranmission oil from these seals. I had not noticed the problem till I topped up the gearbox, it was about a litre down. Since then while the car is standing, quite a puddle forms under the car. Are these seals easy to replace, and AlexGS are they easily obtainable in NZ?
Cheers guys and a happy New Year to you all.
Bryan. :eek:
 
Quite an easy job if you use a suitable joint splitter to separate the suspension strut from the swinging arm...this allows the driveshaft to come out from the gearbox.Then open the circlip which holds the tripoid joint on the shaft and refit everything with a new rubber boot!
 
Bryan,

Again, Mal Simmonds (0274 952 415) will be able to supply the boots, probably at the best price since he imports them from Impergon (last time I bought some, less than $20 each). It's one of those things that should be done when the engine or gearbox is out for any other reason, as it's easy then.

Enzo suggests a splitter for the bottom balljoint... but that won't fit unless the driveshaft is out, kinda chicken-and-egg situation really! Or you could hammer-in a fork-type splitter which will destroy the rubber boot on the balljoint.

While you're going to all the trouble - check the outer CV boots as well. If they show signs of perishing and you plan to keep the car more than a few months, you may as well do them as well. Universal CV boot kit should be available locally or try Mal again.

My pick for doing this job (inside and outside boots) would be as follows:
- With assistant standing on brakes, slacken driveshaft nuts both sides. You may have to chisel staking away first.
- Jack up car, place on stands, remove wheels.
- Remove bolts through strut lower bracket.
- Flop hub assembly outwards and push driveshaft fully into transmission, manipulate steering so that driveshaft can be removed from hub.
- Place a plastic bowl below gearbox
- Unbolt 8mm bolts and nuts (three total) holding inner boot to gearbox.
- Remove driveshaft and undo circlip as Enzo says.

If you only want to replace the inner boots, you might succeed if you leave the driveshaft in the hub and disconnect the strut and the steering balljoint (which is easier to split than the lower balljoint). That should allow enough movement to remove the driveshaft from the gearbox.

There is a design problem in that a groove wears into the shafts, so technically a new boot will not seal as well as when the driveshaft was new. Practically, it will be good enough - but don't expect it to last another 17 years! Provided the new boot seems reasonably 'tight' on the shaft compared with the old boot, you'll be OK.

This is a reasonably big job and I'd allow most of the day once you have got the parts you need. Take care (if you remove the driveshaft nuts) to do them up b***** tight.

How's the clutch :)
I always try to combine these jobs (driveshaft, gearbox, clutch etc.) as it saves oodles of time if you can fix two or three things at once.

-Alex
 
nice description ! I am about to remove the leaky and noisy drive shaft . Already removed hub nut , strut bolts, tie rod ball joint ...
Thanks for the post
 
There is a design problem in that a groove wears into the shafts, so technically a new boot will not seal as well as when the driveshaft was new. Practically, it will be good enough - but don't expect it to last another 17 years! Provided the new boot seems reasonably 'tight' on the shaft compared with the old boot, you'll be OK.
SKF make an item called a "Speedy sleeve" which is used to restore a sealing surface to function . I don't know if one would find the right size but could be worth looking .
I have used them before on small motorcycle crankshaft (Honda CG 125) webs to excellent effect .
 
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