Technical Uno 1.0fire strange ignition problem.

[sily]

I have an Uno 1.0 fire with fuel injection from 1996. It has 72000km.
It is good when you drive it, everything is ok.

I have problems with ignition. When I start the motor first time, it has no problems, but when I go 3km in local, wait 10 minutes (with engine off), and then want to start the engine, it won't. I must wait for another 30 minutes, than it is ok, its starting without problems.

I went to the service, but when he tried to find the problem, the car was good with ignition, it started without problems and he couldn't find what is it. He told me that he looked everything related to the electronics and nothing. Everything is ok.

I'm not good with mechanics, but can somebody help me what can it be? I must do something with the problem. If somebody could help, I try to explain it to the worksman... Yeah, I know that is sily, but...

Please help

sily

 

[alexGS]

Hi Sily, welcome to the forum...

If it is the ignition system, it sounds once again like the finned electronic module on the side of the distributor. These have a habit of overheating which gives similar symptoms, except that sometimes the engine cuts out when driving. The only way to know for sure is to try a replacement module.

However to me this sounds more like a classic carburettor problem. Sometimes, if the float level is high and the carburettor is hot, fuel can 'burp' into the engine (listen for a slurp every 30 seconds or so) after switching the engine off, which has the effect of flooding the engine and making it hard or impossible to start (unless you know how)...

Or you may have a vapour-lock problem, again caused by overheating of the carburettor and its fuel lines, although petrol quality is a contributing factor!

...so how do you start a flooded engine? You push the accelerator pedal slowly all the way down, hold it down, and crank the engine over until it fires... obviously releasing the pedal as the revs increase over 2000 or so.

Perhaps you'd like to report back on whether this technique gets it going in the 10 minute time period... if so, then we need to think about whether the carburettor has its heat shield in place, whether the fuel level (float level) is correct, and whether the engine is running too hot.

If the technique makes no difference, then it is likely to be ignition-related as you suggested, and the common temperature-related fault is that module. It's quite easy to change, although you should also check the insulation on the pick-up wires inside the distributor while you are there.

Cheers,
-Alex

 

[sily]

Thx, its real good to see helping people...

I had problems before, then its engine was turning down in drive, and it couldn't be started. The ignition module was replaced then. It was overheating. Your first suggestion was this, if I understand. This module was replaced one month ago.
It was not stopping anymore when I drive...

I don't understand the part with the flooded engine.
You sad that I should push the accelerator pedal slowly down. Before I start the engine, and then starting it, with accelerator pedal down? Did I understand it correctly?
Because they sad at the servise, to start engine without pushing the acc. pedal, because it has injector engine?!

And another thing! There were no sparks, when it won't started. This is an important thing, and I forget to tell it in the previous post.

I was driving it today, and there were no problems...

thx for the suggestion, awaiting the answers, and looking forward for more suggestions

sily


p.s. we have terrible petrol here...

 

[M@nticore]

welcome sily, maybe it's the coil or even the pickups in the dizzy. you don't have to worry about pussing the pedal down and float level etc, as you said you have SPI Injection.

 

[alexGS]

Whoops.
Thanks Manticore,

I did indeed miss the 'injection' part, though the advice for holding the accelerator pedal down still holds if, for some reason, the injection system is flooding the engine (unlikely though).

But I am sorry I made a real mistake there, guess I thought that a 1996 Uno would be the carburettor-spec since the Unos made in South Africa, India, etc. usually are. The newest fuel-injection Uno that I've seen was 1994, in the UK.

Perhaps check the air gap in the distributor pickup. The gap should be as small as practical; while turning the shaft (with distributor removed) there should be a 'bumpy' feeling as the poles pass the magnetic pickup, but without any actual contact (of course).

There is also an earth wire which could have a poor contact, exposed when the finned module is removed. Though, that doesn't explain the temperature dependence.

-Alex

 

[sily]

Back again.
I had this problem for 3 or 4 weeks more. It wont start, totally unpredictible. And then one day, it wont to start at all. For two days I was trying to start it, but nothing.
Again to the service, and then were the light:idea:

It was the pickup coil. The resistance was not enough

(excuse me for my english, I hope that you understand me

They changed the pickup coil, and now its starting from the first time. I had no time to test it (they gave me back the car today), but I think, that there wont be more trouble...

thank you for your help again.

 

[hitaindraa]

Re: Uno 1.0fire strange jerking problem.

hello
I have uno 1998 make. Recently there is this strange problem when ever i start in cold start, and as soon as i put the car in motion it stalls with jerking which continues till 2 km streach. Once the engine is heated it gives no problem.

What can be the cause for this, i have given the car thrice to the dealers workshop, but with no results.

pl guide

Hitaindra

 

[alexGS]

Re: Uno 1.0fire strange jerking problem.

Hi Hitaindra and welcome to the forum,

Does your 1998 Uno have a carburettor or fuel injection - I don't want to go down the wrong path again

Cheers,
-Alex

 

[darkmyst]

Re: Uno 1.0fire strange jerking problem.

Some uno's require warming up before they can perform their duty, let it warm up for a few minutes before you drive it

 

[alexGS]

Re: Uno 1.0fire strange jerking problem.

Some uno's require warming up before they can perform their duty, let it warm up for a few minutes before you drive it

I totally agree
The Uno 45 FIRE always seemed particularly bad to me when the engine was cold. There are two solutions: very gentle driving, or Italian-style driving - nothing in between!

Sometimes the choke cable and the fast idle setting on the choke need careful adjustment to ensure that the choke is actually having an effect - it should make driving off more smooth if working properly. The jury is still out on whether you use more fuel driving off with the choke than you would use if you left the engine idling for a few minutes first, to warm it up. It depends on how quickly your particular engine can warm through; perhaps fit a temperature gauge if not already fitted, and replace the thermostat if the engine does not warm up as quickly as it should.

If fuel-injected, the coolant temperature sensor may be faulty.

-Alex

 

[wesley4]

Hello all.

Listen I have a problem with the heating of my car. <so I assume>

In the mornings before work, I will start the car and obviously pull the choke out. However, I have come across the problem where the light to the choke doesn't appear, as well as the indicators not working, as well as the petrol and temperature gauges not working. I figured it was a temperature problem because if I left the Uno standing for more than +- 20 minutes and these items will be operational again! Why do I have to wait so long???

can something be done?

 

[johorridoh]

If it´s an UNO with fuel injection that stops running all the sudden it´s most likely the butterfly-valve sensor. These wear out over the years and the engine electronic control unit will drop out instantly.
Engine behaviour is quite puzzling and often misunderstood.
The best thing is to get a working BOSCH or WEBER SPI unit.
New replacements will be about 400 €, if you get any. As BOSCH is a world wide component supplier you may also look in cars from other brands. But there are different sizes, so look for a car with the same engine volume.

 

[johorridoh]

@ wesley4
Look for the two main red wires that lead from the battery
to the fuse box. One of them is a plugged wire. These plugs corrode witch will make halve of the car electrics go dead.
You can test it by checking the fuses for power. If there is no power the plug has to be cleaned.