Bushboy said:
good lad, you clear those bowels out, back to topic......want me to check you know where? bring it all to the ace, july?
General Turbo woes
- Thread starter Bushboy
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General Turbo woes
good lad, you clear those bowels out, back to topic......want me to check you know where? bring it all to the ace, july?
If uve got a spare dump valve jai then Ill give it a go 
bidding on a forge jobbie on ebay at the moment though so ill see!
Cars sooooo much smoother now the dump valve is off.
bidding on a forge jobbie on ebay at the moment though so ill see!Cars sooooo much smoother now the dump valve is off.
Oh my god i was literally just about to suggest you check your Dump valve after speaking to my mechanic about your cars problem and having just read the thread you've found the problem mate lol How weird!!!!
F R O $ T Y
F R O $ T Y
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good stuff frosty Mark got there before you lol, i too have remembered what mine was, it was the dump valve diaphram lol! so was gonna say check ur dump valve lol
Dunc
Dunc
Is it just me or do all bailey dump valves seem to break? both on both of my turbos have been broken.
Glad you got it sorted mate.
Dunc did you get my PM?
Dunc did you get my PM?
Bushboy said:
1 of mine broke, and for some reason i dis-assembled the one that didnt break to try and recreate the noise of the first... now have 2 d/v's in bits waiting to be ebay'd
Now got a Grp A Le-mans d/v iirc... or was it Grp N? cant remember which
Glad you found the problem Bushboy!
The reason that unplugging the throttle switch has no effect is because the ECU will not cut the fuel unless it 'sees' the throttle closed at 2000RPM or higher, and since you had unplugged the switch, it wouldn't. Then, of course, the fuel didn't need to be restored for the engine to idle, since it was never cut off.
70 pounds is a tremendous price for such a simple part - I'm pleased you didn't replace it (even if I thought you should originally!)
I've had the same dump valve problems and after finding that three originals off other cars were all stuffed, I went the whole way and obtained a genuine replacement part. It was slightly cheaper than the cheapest aftermarket item (could buy an 'external' dump valve in a suitable small size for NZ$100, about 38 pounds, but managed to buy the genuine Bosch part for $85 (32 pounds).
I recommend the genuine recirculating part because otherwise you will have a boost leak when it 'blows off' (meaning it will take a fraction longer to build up the boost again between gearchanges etc.), and there is the risk of it leaking during engine idling (which will put you back where you are at the moment).
Of course, you had a non-original dump valve anyway (it's in the pics, and you said it was!) So that is probably why you were having problems with it
-Alex
The reason that unplugging the throttle switch has no effect is because the ECU will not cut the fuel unless it 'sees' the throttle closed at 2000RPM or higher, and since you had unplugged the switch, it wouldn't. Then, of course, the fuel didn't need to be restored for the engine to idle, since it was never cut off.
70 pounds is a tremendous price for such a simple part - I'm pleased you didn't replace it (even if I thought you should originally!)
I've had the same dump valve problems and after finding that three originals off other cars were all stuffed, I went the whole way and obtained a genuine replacement part. It was slightly cheaper than the cheapest aftermarket item (could buy an 'external' dump valve in a suitable small size for NZ$100, about 38 pounds, but managed to buy the genuine Bosch part for $85 (32 pounds).
I recommend the genuine recirculating part because otherwise you will have a boost leak when it 'blows off' (meaning it will take a fraction longer to build up the boost again between gearchanges etc.), and there is the risk of it leaking during engine idling (which will put you back where you are at the moment).
Of course, you had a non-original dump valve anyway (it's in the pics, and you said it was!) So that is probably why you were having problems with it
-Alex
oldskoolmk1unoturbo said:
yup, replied
Dunc
was thinking of a recirculating valve but I do like mytish .. but like you say, it just causes a leak etc and is a part prone to problems as Ive found out.
.. but like you say, it just causes a leak etc and is a part prone to problems as Ive found out.
Agreed, I'd feel more of a man if my car went 'tissshhhh' but reality is that I do 1000km/year in my Uno, 3500km/year on my scooter... For maximum economy and performance, you want the recirculating type.
Not sure how long the standard part lasts in a high-boost situation (well, 1bar instead of 0.6bar). I'm guessing it should be good for a while, but I'll let you know when mine breaks
Incidentally, when my recirculating valve was busted, it restricted my maximum boost to 0.7 or so, and the engine tended to 'surge' when the throttle was lifted (I understand that this is BAD for the turbo, so if you're driving your car without a dump valve of either sort, it might pay to lift off the throttle gently...)
Now, the boost gauge drops straight to zero when I lift my foot, which is smoother (and doesn't take long to come back up).
I think I've got a bit of a boost leak somewhere (only at high boost) as there's a bit of a whistle (gives it character!), and I noticed that the top pipe to the plenum was oily on the outside.
I tried repairing one of my spare recirculating valves by glueing the diaphragm with silicone windscreen sealant. It worked for a few throttle lifts, then there was a BANG as the valve literally blew off (the casing flew across and lodged under the coolant tank) - after that, boost could only reach 0.3bar (but made a lovely noise). Close inspection showed the repaired diaphragm to be intact, but the glue on the casing didn't hold (probably oil contamination).
-Alex
Not sure how long the standard part lasts in a high-boost situation (well, 1bar instead of 0.6bar). I'm guessing it should be good for a while, but I'll let you know when mine breaks
Incidentally, when my recirculating valve was busted, it restricted my maximum boost to 0.7 or so, and the engine tended to 'surge' when the throttle was lifted (I understand that this is BAD for the turbo, so if you're driving your car without a dump valve of either sort, it might pay to lift off the throttle gently...)
Now, the boost gauge drops straight to zero when I lift my foot, which is smoother (and doesn't take long to come back up).
I think I've got a bit of a boost leak somewhere (only at high boost) as there's a bit of a whistle (gives it character!), and I noticed that the top pipe to the plenum was oily on the outside.
I tried repairing one of my spare recirculating valves by glueing the diaphragm with silicone windscreen sealant. It worked for a few throttle lifts, then there was a BANG as the valve literally blew off (the casing flew across and lodged under the coolant tank) - after that, boost could only reach 0.3bar (but made a lovely noise). Close inspection showed the repaired diaphragm to be intact, but the glue on the casing didn't hold (probably oil contamination).
-Alex
