Technical tipo jerking
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Technical tipo jerking
Have a similar problem it appears on my 1991 1.4 Tipo (~79k miles) although I get a squeak as it jerks. My best guesses to date:
a) worn CV joint
b) worn out engine mounts
Is there anyone who can recommend the way forward please? Thanks in advance.
a) worn CV joint
b) worn out engine mounts
Is there anyone who can recommend the way forward please? Thanks in advance.
Could be engine mounts. Could be your clutch slipping perhaps. See if you can pin point the exact conditions that it happens.
EDIT: Do your cars have Catalytic converters? perhaps its time to get them changed because they are breaking appart, but you may not have them on a 1991 car.
EDIT: Do your cars have Catalytic converters? perhaps its time to get them changed because they are breaking appart, but you may not have them on a 1991 car.
Alex - thanks for your comments. Symptoms occur when engine hot or cold, wet or dry. Seems to occur noticably when accelerating in 1st mainly and slightly if heavy footed in 2nd gear.
Engine mounts:
Is there a simple check for this as I have tried to rock the engine in the stationary car (ignition off) by hanging off the head and the engine does not seem to move back or forth greatly?
Clutch:
Don't think its the clutch as it does not slip when changing down when engine braking.
Catalytic converter:
No Catalytic converter - missed it by about 6 months!
Any comments/ideas appreciated.
Engine mounts:
Is there a simple check for this as I have tried to rock the engine in the stationary car (ignition off) by hanging off the head and the engine does not seem to move back or forth greatly?
Clutch:
Don't think its the clutch as it does not slip when changing down when engine braking.
Catalytic converter:
No Catalytic converter - missed it by about 6 months!
Any comments/ideas appreciated.
Does the engine seem to loose power? or does it hold the revs?
It could be the CV joints, but I've not much experiance with them, so wouldn't know what to look for.
As for engine mounts, I would expect to hear a loud thud comming from the engine compartment under heavy acceleration, and with a jerk at the same time, and then everything should be back to normal. this would indicate that a the rubber part of one or more mount has perished, which wouldn't be surprising on a vehicle from 1991.
EDIT: I'm not sure you'll get much movement from the engine from simply hanging off it... you could do a similar check by having the engine on idle, with the bonnet open, and rev the engine from the throttle body, you should see the engine moving as you increase the revs.
It could be the CV joints, but I've not much experiance with them, so wouldn't know what to look for.
As for engine mounts, I would expect to hear a loud thud comming from the engine compartment under heavy acceleration, and with a jerk at the same time, and then everything should be back to normal. this would indicate that a the rubber part of one or more mount has perished, which wouldn't be surprising on a vehicle from 1991.
EDIT: I'm not sure you'll get much movement from the engine from simply hanging off it... you could do a similar check by having the engine on idle, with the bonnet open, and rev the engine from the throttle body, you should see the engine moving as you increase the revs.
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bump!
Ive got the same problem (or sounds like it) and was wondering the same
basicly the car will jerk forwards as if your not reving it enough (when i defiantly am) when accelerating away in 1st slowly.
basicly if you try to pull away without giving it more the 2500 revs ital jerk forwards and then carry on as normal. does it at anytime, hot or cold. occasionaly does it in 2nd too but 34d 4th and 5th are fine.
its not the mounts as i know what a dodgy mount sounds like and the clutch doesnt seem to be slipping. doesnt rev with no power etc as you would expect from a slipping clutch. I could be the clutch though, maybe its a bit worn so isnt engaging perfectly anymore etc? but surely if it was the clutch then itad do the same when engaging at any revs?
any ideas? btw, whats a CV joint?
Ive got the same problem (or sounds like it) and was wondering the same
basicly the car will jerk forwards as if your not reving it enough (when i defiantly am) when accelerating away in 1st slowly.
basicly if you try to pull away without giving it more the 2500 revs ital jerk forwards and then carry on as normal. does it at anytime, hot or cold. occasionaly does it in 2nd too but 34d 4th and 5th are fine.
its not the mounts as i know what a dodgy mount sounds like
and the clutch doesnt seem to be slipping. doesnt rev with no power etc as you would expect from a slipping clutch. I could be the clutch though, maybe its a bit worn so isnt engaging perfectly anymore etc? but surely if it was the clutch then itad do the same when engaging at any revs?any ideas? btw, whats a CV joint?
This happens to me, I think It might actually be something as bad as a worn 1st Gear Synchro
I think a CV Joint is the bit that connects the the Disc from the Axels and spins your wheels, I know they are covered in a Rubber Boot and contain a type of Ball Bearing. When the Bearings wear out then the CV Joints don't spin as they should and this could cause judder, knocking sounds and other bell type sounds.
http://www.4130-products.com/step/cvboot/
Engine mounts would make you feel a hard jerk on pulling with pace off but not several. My engine mounts were worn and I had no Idea, probably not the problem.
I'm having my Gearbox rebuilt soon as I get my Student Loan through LD if I don't jerk off no more I'll let you know.
I think a CV Joint is the bit that connects the the Disc from the Axels and spins your wheels, I know they are covered in a Rubber Boot and contain a type of Ball Bearing. When the Bearings wear out then the CV Joints don't spin as they should and this could cause judder, knocking sounds and other bell type sounds.
http://www.4130-products.com/step/cvboot/
Engine mounts would make you feel a hard jerk on pulling with pace off but not several. My engine mounts were worn and I had no Idea, probably not the problem.
I'm having my Gearbox rebuilt soon as I get my Student Loan through LD if I don't jerk off no more I'll let you know.
sumplug
Established member
sounds like transmission wind up.basically its a worn transmission or more likely a worn driveshaft.is there any knocking when it jerks which speeds up when accelerating?
Hi, this is my first post and i believe this problem is similar to the one i am currently experiencing.
I have a Tipo, L reg, 1.4 i.e. (s?) <-electric windows, p/s, automatic choke, silly spoiler etc
When i first got the car in January it ran more or less fine but then has only done 28000 miles due to one previous old driver! Anyway, it has recently started cutting briefly when applying throttle in 1st and 2nd gears (sometimes in others too). It feels as though all 4 plugs misfire at once and the whole car jerks before gaining power again and sometimes i have to use many revs and ease the clutch to get it to move off (not good at roundabouts!). Occasionally it feels like all the powers going and i can only get revs back by dipping the clutch and it has cut out before because of this.
I have since changed all the plugs, the rotary arm? and the dizzy cap but these have had little improvement, although it did run fine for about 2 days after changing the plugs. I have not yet changed the leads. For all i know it may well be related to fuel or electronics but i thought i'd do the things i knew about first!
I'm not sure if this is the same problem as described in the rest of this post but i hope you guys might offer some suggestions for me to follow. Please bear in mind that i'm no mechanic. Thanks a lot,
Rich
I have a Tipo, L reg, 1.4 i.e. (s?) <-electric windows, p/s, automatic choke, silly spoiler etc
When i first got the car in January it ran more or less fine but then has only done 28000 miles due to one previous old driver! Anyway, it has recently started cutting briefly when applying throttle in 1st and 2nd gears (sometimes in others too). It feels as though all 4 plugs misfire at once and the whole car jerks before gaining power again and sometimes i have to use many revs and ease the clutch to get it to move off (not good at roundabouts!). Occasionally it feels like all the powers going and i can only get revs back by dipping the clutch and it has cut out before because of this.
I have since changed all the plugs, the rotary arm? and the dizzy cap but these have had little improvement, although it did run fine for about 2 days after changing the plugs. I have not yet changed the leads. For all i know it may well be related to fuel or electronics but i thought i'd do the things i knew about first!
I'm not sure if this is the same problem as described in the rest of this post but i hope you guys might offer some suggestions for me to follow. Please bear in mind that i'm no mechanic. Thanks a lot,
Rich
sumplug
Established member
This is on the starting circuit somewhere. I suspect a bad earth or wire on the coil. Also check leads to battery and earthing points. check wires to dizzy too. Do the dash lights come on when it tries to cut out?Luthius said:
Andy
Zippyque
New member
Luthius said:
Mine has started doing this in the last week but only when hot, when trying to pull away engine try’s to stall and when I keep a constant rev's on sometimes get a small stutter. But the car will rev out with no problems so I don't think its fuel starvation. I'm going to look at bad electrical connections as I’ve had a few problems in the past with corrosion in the wiring loom.
Thing is one day its very bad next its fine
ALso a 14ie 1994
sounds like what happened to my car last year although from the sounds of things its not the problem. with mine the distributor was playing up. it just seemed to be all over the place. the next day it didn't start and so i got some new contacts. but before then i managed to start it by using electical spray and wiping out the moisture from the distributor. make sure that you use vaseline or something around the distributor to ensure no moisture gets into it. but it seems you've already ruled this out.
sumplug said:This is on the starting circuit somewhere. I suspect a bad earth or wire on the coil. Also check leads to battery and earthing points. check wires to dizzy too. Do the dash lights come on when it tries to cut out?
Andy
Thanks for this, i'll have a look later when i've got time. I believe that no dash lights come on when it cuts, just appears as normal running. Quite possibly my trek to work, which can be bumpy, has disloged some of the wiring as i didn't have this problem before i started at my work.
Thanks guys
Rich
Hi Guys
I've had a similar thing recently. Although mine has been even more severe. Car runs fine and then starts to cut out. Nothing mechanically wrong as it's all smooth (well, as smooth as it ever is!) but just engine coughs and splutters.
Here's a test to try:
[/INDENT][/INDENT]Does the car rev ok when stationary?
If yes, then it may not be electrics but probably more of a fuel issue. Reason being, when the car is under load, you're gonna give it more throttle so it's gonna suck up more fuel. With no load, it'll rev really easily. If it's electrics then loading should make little difference.
I had a hunch on this one and stipped the carb only to find, da dah! water! The water sits in the bottom of the carb and is probably getting sucked into the main jets. I cleared it out and it was fine for a while but returned after a short spin around the block. I guess it's in the fuel tank too.:bang:
Next job, remove and empty and clean fuel tank!:yuck:
Anyone ever done this? I doubt it's too difficult, just more of a pain.
Cheers all
SACS
I've had a similar thing recently. Although mine has been even more severe. Car runs fine and then starts to cut out. Nothing mechanically wrong as it's all smooth (well, as smooth as it ever is!) but just engine coughs and splutters.
Here's a test to try:
[/INDENT][/INDENT]Does the car rev ok when stationary?
If yes, then it may not be electrics but probably more of a fuel issue. Reason being, when the car is under load, you're gonna give it more throttle so it's gonna suck up more fuel. With no load, it'll rev really easily. If it's electrics then loading should make little difference.
I had a hunch on this one and stipped the carb only to find, da dah! water! The water sits in the bottom of the carb and is probably getting sucked into the main jets. I cleared it out and it was fine for a while but returned after a short spin around the block. I guess it's in the fuel tank too.:bang:
Next job, remove and empty and clean fuel tank!:yuck:
Anyone ever done this? I doubt it's too difficult, just more of a pain.
Cheers all
SACS
sumplug
Established member
On a Carb engine, cleaning the fuel tank out will be easy. Also try to blow the fuel lines out too. If you cannot, undo the fuel line to carb and crank engine over to pump through clean fuel, this will help clean pipe.Fit a fuel filter before the carb to keep water at bay.SACS said:Hi Guys
I've had a similar thing recently. Although mine has been even more severe. Car runs fine and then starts to cut out. Nothing mechanically wrong as it's all smooth (well, as smooth as it ever is!) but just engine coughs and splutters.
Here's a test to try:
[/INDENT][/INDENT]Does the car rev ok when stationary?
If yes, then it may not be electrics but probably more of a fuel issue. Reason being, when the car is under load, you're gonna give it more throttle so it's gonna suck up more fuel. With no load, it'll rev really easily. If it's electrics then loading should make little difference.
I had a hunch on this one and stipped the carb only to find, da dah! water! The water sits in the bottom of the carb and is probably getting sucked into the main jets. I cleared it out and it was fine for a while but returned after a short spin around the block. I guess it's in the fuel tank too.:bang:
Next job, remove and empty and clean fuel tank!:yuck:
Anyone ever done this? I doubt it's too difficult, just more of a pain.
Cheers all
SACS
Andy.
So i'm back of holiday and yes, the car's no better. I've not done anything to it yet though because ive not been here. Did notice something strange though, when in reverse the car works absolutely fine (had to back it down the road because it was hardly going forwards). My thoughts are that reversing makes a better connection in the electronics, maybe the earthing. I picture the problem as the wire bouncing back to connection after it cuts only to move off again as soon as the engine powers. Maybe reversing keeps it in place. I'm going to look through the forums now on how to replace/fix the wires in question.
Hope i fix it soon!
Hope i fix it soon!
