Tensioner

[stuart]

Can anyone confirm for me what the score is with the tensioner on a 1.6 Brava. Having read the horror stories I checked mine at the weekend and it looks like it's made of grey plastic....I'm guessing this is bad news, especially on a 89k car?

If I get a new tensioner from my Fiat agent, am I guaranteed to get a good replacement, presumably metal?

I've just shelled out £700 for a head skim and gasket change and don't need to add any cambelt problems right now!

Apologies if this has been covered 1000 times before but I couldn't find a straight answer to the question by searching.

Stuart

 

[alfanige]

!

Stuart, you hould have had it changed at the same time as the other work, it would have save you about £100. You need to get it done ASAP - the part will be the same but it will save you an engine rebuild

Nige

 

[stuart]

Re: !

OK, that's a great help. I thought the design of the tensioner had been changed since the early cars.

So, what are the rules? Will the tensioner last OK between belt changes? I don't have a problem with replacing it myself, I was just really busy fixing up my other car when this one blew it's gasket without warning.

I've got to say these cars seem pretty fragile. I still have to fix the cold-starting problem that started before the head gasket blew - mis-firing really badly when it finally fires. I'm guessing it's injectors (I already cleaned the idle valve out)?

Stuart

 

[Anonymous]

Re: Re: !

The cold starting could be the water temp sender. A dead injector would light the warning lamp. (I know, I've had 3 die) It is also possible that the idle valve motor is shot.

Is there any hesitation when revving it?

The Fiat tensioner is no more fragile than other makes, a friends Audi A4 broke its tensioner at 34k miles and even with a full Audi service history by the garage that sold it to him, they refused to cough up for the repairs!

 

[stuart]

Re: Re: Re: !

I don't get any problems with warning lights (so far!).

It seems to start and runs just fine when it's warm but sounds really lumpy like it's only running on two cylinders when it finally starts from cold.

Does anyone know roughly what resistance the air/water temp sensors should read when cold/hot? I can check them easy enough with a DVM.

Hey, nice to know that Audi owners get tensioner problems too! And I thought they still had pushrods....

Stu

 

[craig]

Re: Re: Re: Re: !

Could it be a problem with an ignition coil? I only say this as i had one go on me a couple of weeks ago, and it sounds similar to yours (well without the cold starting issues)
cheers

 

[Anonymous]

Re: Re: Re: Re: !

As far as I know, most automotive applications use PT100 temperature sensors. There's a table of resistances here:

http://www.searcheng.co.uk/selection/control/Articles/useful/pt100.htm

 

[Anonymous]

Re: Re: Re: Re: !

The resistance readings are in the haynes manual.

Does sound like its plug/lead/coil related though. I've found with various Fiats that they are really sensitive to weak spark when cold starting but run fine when hot.

As the 1.6 is wasted spark, a fault with 1 plug/lead will affect 2 cyls.

 

[stuart]

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: !

Great advice. I picked up the Haynes today with the resistances listed. Gives me loads of ideas to check at the weekend.

Cheers

Stu