Technical Security System and Parasitic Draw

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Technical Security System and Parasitic Draw

SailorBob

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2010 Ducato 250 2.3L Diesel Turbo

I've got a parasitic draw that will drain the battery enough over a few days of not driving to make the engine hard to start. Measuring at the negative battery cable with my Uni-T UT201E Clamp Meter it usually show around 190ma of draw with the reading bouncing around 20 - 30ma. If I pull the F39 fuse the draw drops by about 70ma and becomes stable - it stops jumping around. Also, the blue led light to the left of the steering wheel which indicates the security system is active goes out. Now I'm not sure how accurate my clamp meter is at such low current, but it's clear that pulling that fuse drops the draw. No other fuse I pulled under the dash had any affect.

There are two codes which won't go away, U1602 CAN Line, Bus Off Intermittent in the Marelli Instrument Cluster, and D602 CAN Line Error, Bus Off in the Body Computer. These two codes come back immediately after clearing DTCs. I've also seen various other DTCs from other modules relating to failures to communicate with the Instrument Panel / Cluster, but those are rare and don't come back after being cleared.

So I had a theory that my parasitic draw might be due to a communication error on the CAN bus not allowing all modules to go to sleep. So I hooked up my PicoScope and took a quick look via the B CAN pins, 6 and 14, on the OBDII connector. My first observation was that the voltages weren't what I expected. I've read that B CAN high and low should switch between 2.5 - 3.5v and 2.5 to 1.5 volts respectively. I saw signals switching from 5v to 1v and 0v to 4v. However the signals looked well formed and the two were always the inverse of each other so I'm guessing maybe that's just a non-standard Fiat thing? Anyways, when I switch the engine off, the signals at the OBDII connector continue until I engage the alarm system and then they stop. As a note there is a third party immobilizer system installed.

So that seems like a dead end unless the gateway in the NBC disconnects the bus from the OBDII connector when the alarm is activated.

Getting back to the F39 fuse. On page 120 of the Training Manual it lists everything on F39:

  • NRR, diagnosis socket EOBD, CSA, CAV, CCT, A/C control, Webasto timer
My vehicle has the simplest climate control system so no NCL climate control node ( I think ) or Webasto time. Also no CCT . I'm assuming NRR ( radio receiver node ) is the radio on the dash? That's disconnected. So that only leaves the EOBD socket, CSA ( anti-theft siren control unit ) and the CAV ( anti-lifting control unit / tilt sensor ).

On page 180 and 181 of the training manual it discusses the CSA and CAV.


Specifically, on 180 it says:

The alarm system (Opt. 213) features the installation of a CSA alarm siren control unit and, on request, the system can be implemented with an anti-lifting control unit. The alarm siren control unit is installed under the left front wheelhouse, the anti-lifting control unit, under the dashboard on the passenger side. Both are connected to the NBC via the A-BUS serial line of 9600 Kbits/sec. as already known.
The alarm system can also be installed after market by connecting the siren control unit and the antilifting control unit via the specific wiring, included in the Metasystem kit.
Does this mean the the built in alarm system, the CSA annd CAV are optional and might be completely supplanted by the third party immobilizer system?

As a note, on page 181 it shows there is a button to disable the tilt sensor, and that button isn't present on my vehicle.

So is it reasonable at this point to assume that my vehicle only has the third party security system, and that that is the cause of my parasitic draw? I want to be sure, since the company that installed the system will charge me through the nose if I send it in for diagnosis and it turns out not to be their system.


Is there anything I'm missing?
 
Hi Sailorbob

It sounds as though the aftermarket security system has been wired to get its +12V permanent supply from fuse F39.

I am a bit puzzled that 200 mA drain is enough to give you starting troubles. It doesn't sound an outrageous drain for a modern vehicle. Using a crude calculation, if the battery is 100Ah and the drain is 0.2 Amps you'd expect it to go from full to completely flat in 500 Hours i.e. 3 weeks. Yes I know that's simplistic but it's a lot longer than a few days.
 
At 200ma that's about 4.8A draw / day so after 5 days the battery is almost 20% drained, 40% drained after 10 days. It's a problem for a vacation vehicle that's rarely driven.

On another note - 200ma is quite excessive - I've generally learned that anything above 50ma is considered the threshold for diagnosing a parasitic draw... On page 133 of the training manual regarding the NBC it says:

The input on stand-by (with V = 13.5 Volt) is: <= 6 mA
The input on stand-by with the alarm function (with V = 13.5 Volt) is: <= 10 mA
So I would expect that even with a third party alarm system the draw shouldn't be more than maybe 20 - 30ma tops.

But yeah, it does sound like the immobilizer is wired directly to f39, and maybe to something else as well... They have both a primary tracking system and a backup tracking system in case the primary is disabled by a thief. The backup may be wired directly to power with it's own inline fuse... I'll have to poke around a bit I see what I can find...
 
A rule of thumb is a diesel requires a 60 % charged battery to start.
Some people say more than 60% charged some people say less
 
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