Technical saph cossie 2wd intercooler on MK1 UT

[oldskoolmk1unoturbo]

gettin myself a cossie 2wd intercooler, hopefully gonna make it fit someone told me to move the oil cooler forward and it should fit?

how much boost can i run using it? and will i need to get my Uno setup on a rolling road or wont it need it?

Thanks

 

[circolo]

Anything will fit, but depends on how many components you'll want to move around etc.

Going back a few years, when I ran the Uno Turbo Owners club (UK), it was a general opinion between us members that the original IC wasn't a weak point in the system.

The standard upgrade was:

1. FSE Fuel valve - to increase the fuel pressure to prevent detonation
2. Aftermarket boost guage, which showed something like up 1.5 bar pressure
3. Twin piston Atmos dumpvalve - (some of us were dubious as to whether this was better than the plastic re-circ valve).
4. Bleed-valve
5. Uprated pressure cut off switch (screwed into the side of the inlet manifold) - this prevents the switch from detecting too high boost pressure and cutting of the ECU/ignition. The uprated switch was set to 1.25bar.

All other components were pretty much left alone.

We'd dial in 1.2 bar (max) pressure.

And away we'd go.

Now you may have people on here not recommending that set up, because the "IC can't handle the boost pressure", or "boost air-flow will be too hot, as the IC can't cool it enough", or "the engine can't handle 1.2bar", or the turbo, etc, etc,

But all I can say is the majority of the members of the UK UT owners club ran these mods, which gave the car amazing performance, and the only failures with their cars were generally bodywork, rust related.

Personally I'd spend the money on those areas of the Uno, rather than bigger IC's etc.

 

[the mk1 kid]

How did you determine the OE IC was not a weak point?

I had an ACT gauge for a while before i had my custom FMIC made. During that time i recorded charge temps approaching 70'C, and most of the time while driving nicely temps were 20+ 'C higher than the ambient.

With my front mount the highest temp i have seen while moving i think was 35'C!

Not everyone wants to spend the money on one, but in my opinion they should if they can.

Tom

 

[oldskoolmk1unoturbo]

The standard upgrade was:

1. FSE Fuel valve - to increase the fuel pressure to prevent detonation
2. Aftermarket boost guage, which showed something like up 1.5 bar pressure
3. Twin piston Atmos dumpvalve - (some of us were dubious as to whether this was better than the plastic re-circ valve).
4. Bleed-valve
5. Uprated pressure cut off switch (screwed into the side of the inlet manifold) - this prevents the switch from detecting too high boost pressure and cutting of the ECU/ignition. The uprated switch was set to 1.25bar.

I have all of the above apart from an uprated pressure cut off, mines just disconnected all together,

whats the put of setting the boost to 1.2bar when it will only hold 12psi at the redline?

where would you rather spend your money then circolo? as my uno already has uprated suspension, strut braces, stainless exhaust, K&N filter, lightweight alloy wheels,

Thanks
Mark.

 

[circolo]

Whoa! It's just a car.

When we had the UT club from a few years ago now, this was the preferred means of modding the UT.

You have to bare in mind that Big IC's and such like have gone down in price over the recent years, so maybe that was a factor, but I can only speak from experience, (and experience of the other 80 odd members of the club), that the standard IC was good for the job, and good for higher boost pressures too, and would rarely fail. (Unlike the R5GTT which had a tendency to pop apart).

If you want to get a larger IC, to reduce charge temps, it goes without saying that you'll achieve this, compared to the standard IC.

 

[circolo]

where would you rather spend your money then circolo? as my uno already has uprated suspension, strut braces, stainless exhaust, K&N filter, lightweight alloy wheels,

Thanks
Mark.

I'd consider uprating the brakes, unless you missed this of the list of components you have upgraded already.



Also, if you have a K&N cone filter, I'd revert back to the panel filter instead, but replace the panel filter with a K&N panel filter too.