Technical Recommend engine Oil
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Technical Recommend engine Oil
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The manufacturers recommendation is to use a 5W40 fully synthetic oil, but this engine isn't an oil sensitive design and anything that's decent will probably work just fine.
Derbyfella
Established member
I think in pre 2014 it was 5w30 c3 it is in the wife’s 500c pop
5w40 any good synthetic but check re cold climate maybe different?
I've always believed that using a good, relatively "big name" product is never money wasted - but I always search out the deals and usually end up buying from Opie, Powerenhancer or CMG at a good disdount. Modern vehicles transmission oils are, in particular, becoming very vehicle specific so I now would only use the specific product the manufacturer of the vehicle uses. With engine oils now also becoming almost engine specific, I will always use a product which complies with the manufacturer specification, so, for instance, I use an oil to FAIT spec 95535-S2. in our 1.2 Panda. Just so happens that this is also an acceptable spec for my boy's 1.4 8valve Punto which is very convenient. Specifically, for many years now I've had excellent results using Fuchs lubricants and their Titan GT1 5w-40 now superseded by Titan GT1 Flex3 5w-40 both meet this spec and both cars have been running very happily on it for years. Their Titan GT1 Pro C-3 SEA 5W-30 meets the spec for my, just traded in Ibiza and I ran it on that oil as soon as it came out of warranty, so for the next 5 years. It's got one of the modern small capacity 3 cylinder direct injection turbo petrol engines, These type of engines have very high power outputs for their size and together with the stresses, especially thermal stresses, imposed by the turbo, they make great demands on their oil. The Ibiza performed flawlessly on it and was performing "like new" on the day I part exchanged it nearly on it's eighth birthday. The new Scala needs a 0W-20 oil to VW 508/509 which, I'm pleased to notice, has just turned up on one of my favourite suppliers websites: https://cmgoilsdirect.co.uk/product...reK2OkQjjoFTZKuCPgzN6REATChu9BO0aAjnJEALw_wcB Not cheap is it? and their prices are usually very competitive. Wonder what the dealer will charge when her service is due? By the way, for any VAG people reading this, I'm very interested in both tyres and lubricants and am continually researching info on both subjects. From what I've turned up I know, pretty much for sure, that Fuchs are now the supplier of VAG's Quantum range of engine oils and I very strongly suspect they are also a supplier of factory fill engine oils. When the Warranty ends on the Scala it'll be getting run on this.
Hope that is of interest and maybe of some help to the OP? As jrk mentions above, these wee FIRE engines are pretty tolerant of their oils - after all it's an engine which was designed many years ago when oils were much less sophisticated. I'd be a wee bit more choosy with the later VVT engines as they have a fine filter on the VVT valve but I think they'd be "happy" on pretty much any 5W-30 or 5W-40 if a bit worn. Regular oil changes would be almost more important. Having the 5W cold rating is something I think beneficial as it's likely to allow lubricant to rapidly reach all parts of the engine on a cold start. However, if you've got an engine with a turbo on it, and especially our twin air or multiair jobbies then what oil you put in it becomes of paramount importance if you are to get good performance and a long life from it. I'd NEVER run a turboed engine on an extended service regime!!!
Hope that is of interest and maybe of some help to the OP? As jrk mentions above, these wee FIRE engines are pretty tolerant of their oils - after all it's an engine which was designed many years ago when oils were much less sophisticated. I'd be a wee bit more choosy with the later VVT engines as they have a fine filter on the VVT valve but I think they'd be "happy" on pretty much any 5W-30 or 5W-40 if a bit worn. Regular oil changes would be almost more important. Having the 5W cold rating is something I think beneficial as it's likely to allow lubricant to rapidly reach all parts of the engine on a cold start. However, if you've got an engine with a turbo on it, and especially our twin air or multiair jobbies then what oil you put in it becomes of paramount importance if you are to get good performance and a long life from it. I'd NEVER run a turboed engine on an extended service regime!!!
That oil will be fine
I'd second the Motul 8100 X-Clean 5W-40 and also the Fuchs Titan GT1 5w-40. I've used both in ours (2013 1.2 8v) and not had any issues.
This engine is pretty "low maintenance" though and was probably spec'd for 10W40 when it was a brand new design... so I wouldn't go thinner than 5W40. Ours burns a bit... around a litre every 6000 miles, which I'm presuming is because of the skinny oil in an older tech engine..
Ralf S.
This engine is pretty "low maintenance" though and was probably spec'd for 10W40 when it was a brand new design... so I wouldn't go thinner than 5W40. Ours burns a bit... around a litre every 6000 miles, which I'm presuming is because of the skinny oil in an older tech engine..
Ralf S.
Just reviewed an old forum conversation with someone that I tend to trust when it comes to oils.
Back then he told me smth like (pardon my translation):
Ravenol VMO 5w40 is a very good oil but ACEA C3 5w40 oils are oriented towards diesel engines with DPF or gasoline direct injection ones, as far as the aditives are concerned.
MPI engines were designed to work well with ACEA A3/B4 oils like the ones recommended below:
- Ravenol VST USVO 5w40
- Motul 8100 xcess 5w40
- Valvoline Synpower 5w40
He may be contradicted of course. Now I have a dilemma, I don't recall when I changed my mind to using Ravenol VMO (maybe because Ravenol oil finder gave me that)
.
Anyway, don't trust someone just because he says so, please do your our research! Myself, I'll switch to VST USVO for the next oil change, because I trust the guy. Cheers!
Back then he told me smth like (pardon my translation):
Ravenol VMO 5w40 is a very good oil but ACEA C3 5w40 oils are oriented towards diesel engines with DPF or gasoline direct injection ones, as far as the aditives are concerned.
MPI engines were designed to work well with ACEA A3/B4 oils like the ones recommended below:
- Ravenol VST USVO 5w40
- Motul 8100 xcess 5w40
- Valvoline Synpower 5w40
He may be contradicted of course. Now I have a dilemma, I don't recall when I changed my mind to using Ravenol VMO (maybe because Ravenol oil finder gave me that)
.Anyway, don't trust someone just because he says so, please do your our research! Myself, I'll switch to VST USVO for the next oil change, because I trust the guy. Cheers!
Blokes on the internet (of which I am one.. ) 
The 1.2 8valve in Euro 5 configuration is specified by Fiat to use "Selenia K PURE ENERGY 5W-40" (or Selenia K.P.E) which is a ACEA C3 spec' oil, conforming to Fiat 955535-S2.
Petronas also sell a "Selenia K 5W-40" (no "Energy", Pure or otherwise) which is an ACEA A3/B4 spec' oil, conforming to FIAT 955535-M2.
I have no idea if the Euro 4 and 5 cars are identical and the ACEA grade doesn't matter to the engine... or whether the engine management system, catalyst or other components are different and the C3 oil with less ash is better for these newer components.
The spec' sheets for Selenia KPE and K are attached... what's obvious is that the KPE has a *much* higher Total Base Number (TBN) which means it thrashes Selenia K on its ability to absorb acidity.. so again, the car components (e.g. anything made from bronze) might last longer with a C3 oil, if it has copper/bronze components in it to help it get to Euro 5.
In my experience, engines will run on practically any oil, so I suspect the lower ash C3 oil only affects Greta T. and what comes out of the exhaust.. and not the car itself.. but anyhow, Fiat says "C3" is the oil for Euro 5.. and no blokes on the internet can say much more about it...
Ralf S.
The 1.2 8valve in Euro 5 configuration is specified by Fiat to use "Selenia K PURE ENERGY 5W-40" (or Selenia K.P.E) which is a ACEA C3 spec' oil, conforming to Fiat 955535-S2.
Petronas also sell a "Selenia K 5W-40" (no "Energy", Pure or otherwise) which is an ACEA A3/B4 spec' oil, conforming to FIAT 955535-M2.
- "Selenia K" is a Euro 4 era oil and if you have a Euro 5 spec' 500, then you (theoretically) require a lower ash formulation (i.e. C3 / Pure Energy).
- If your 500 pre-dates 2009 then it is probably fine for A3/B4... but C3 is the gig for Euro 5 engines.
I have no idea if the Euro 4 and 5 cars are identical and the ACEA grade doesn't matter to the engine... or whether the engine management system, catalyst or other components are different and the C3 oil with less ash is better for these newer components.
The spec' sheets for Selenia KPE and K are attached... what's obvious is that the KPE has a *much* higher Total Base Number (TBN) which means it thrashes Selenia K on its ability to absorb acidity.. so again, the car components (e.g. anything made from bronze) might last longer with a C3 oil, if it has copper/bronze components in it to help it get to Euro 5.
In my experience, engines will run on practically any oil, so I suspect the lower ash C3 oil only affects Greta T. and what comes out of the exhaust.. and not the car itself.. but anyhow, Fiat says "C3" is the oil for Euro 5.. and no blokes on the internet can say much more about it...
Ralf S.
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For your Fiat 1.2 8V 2010 with 160,000 km, use a high-quality 5W-40 or 10W-40 fully synthetic or semi-synthetic engine oil suitable for high-mileage petrol engines. Make sure it meets Fiat 9.55535-S1 specification if possible. Always replace the oil filter with a compatible brand like Mann, Bosch, or Mahle. Warm up the engine slightly before draining the oil, replace the drain plug washer, refill with the correct amount, and check the level after running the engine briefly. Using a high-mileage synthetic oil can help protect seals and reduce engine wear.Blokes on the internet (of which I am one.. )
The 1.2 8valve in Euro 5 configuration is specified by Fiat to use "Selenia K PURE ENERGY 5W-40" (or Selenia K.P.E) which is a ACEA C3 spec' oil, conforming to Fiat 955535-S2.
Petronas also sell a "Selenia K 5W-40" (no "Energy", Pure or otherwise) which is an ACEA A3/B4 spec' oil, conforming to FIAT 955535-M2.
- "Selenia K" is a Euro 4 era oil and if you have a Euro 5 spec' 500, then you (theoretically) require a lower ash formulation (i.e. C3 / Pure Energy).
- If your 500 pre-dates 2009 then it is probably fine for A3/B4... but C3 is the gig for Euro 5 engines.
I have no idea if the Euro 4 and 5 cars are identical and the ACEA grade doesn't matter to the engine... or whether the engine management system, catalyst or other components are different and the C3 oil with less ash is better for these newer components.
The spec sheets for Selenia KPE and K are attached. What's obvious is that the KPE has a much higher Total Base Number (TBN), which means it thrashes Selenia K on its ability to absorb acidity. If you are unsure about the best oil for your car or want professional advice, searching for a mechanic near me Kingwood TX can help you find someone knowledgeable. So again, the car components, such as anything made from bronze, might last longer with a C3 oil if it has copper or bronze components to help it meet Euro 5 standards.
In my experience, engines will run on practically any oil, so I suspect the lower ash C3 oil only affects Greta T. and what comes out of the exhaust.. and not the car itself.. but anyhow, Fiat says "C3" is the oil for Euro 5.. and no blokes on the internet can say much more about it...
Ralf S.
Mostly I agree with that. I use a 5W-40 fully synthetic in our 2010 1.2 60hp Panda and used the same oil in my boy's 2012 Punto 1.4 8 valve. I think you may have a typo error? in the Fiat spec. I believe it's 9.55535-S2? ALWAYS use a good quality filter.
Personally I like the oil to be as thin as possible for draining so I take a drive down to the sea shore and back first to get the oil fully up to running temp. When fully up to temp the oil film on internal engine parts - crankcase etc - is much thinner so more ends up in the sump and it drains more quickly so tends to flush out more solids. Remember it takes about three time longer for the oil to get up to temp than it takes the coolant, just because the water temp gauge registers "normal" doesn't mean the oil will be anywhere near hot. When doing this remember normal operating temp will be around 90 degrees C so best not to let it flow over the hand which is removing the sump plug! Oh, and the sump plug on the FIRE engine has no washer as it's tapered.
When refilling I like to fill until around or just over half way up the marks on the dipstick, then run the engine, watching at first to see that the oil light goes out within a couple of seconds or so and looking carefully for leaks at the filter O ring seal and sump plug (keeping a general lookout for other possible leaks at the same time. I'm in the "prefill oil filter" camp so, although the filter is a horizontal fit so can't be entirely prefilled, I find the level doesn't drop by much once the filter has been filled. I've owned a number of Pandas with these FIRE engines and find that, if you then top up to the full mark and leave the car for a while, maybe overnight, when next checked the dipstick shows it to be overfilled. I believe a quantity of oil tends to be held in the upper parts of the engine which drains down slowly and causes this. So, if after running it following an oil change I can end up with the oil showing around three quarters up the dipstick marked section I'm very happy to run with it at that. Trying to top up until it's exactly on the full mark often ends up with it registering overfilled the next day when checked first thing before driving. I think it's a good thing to keep oil levels on most modern engines just below the full mark anyway in deference to their catalytic convertors.
Not just Auld Reekie folk being canny with the oil fill Puggit. Never filled oil or coolant to max, and never (oops, sorry did only one time) let the fuel tank gauge drop below a quarter.
Impossible to convince Mrs J to refill at the quarter mark. So far no blockages or burnt out fuel pumps!
Actually, getting her to put petrol in it at all would be a good move. Some years ago she suffered a significant blow back while filling one of the cars which soaked the front of her trousers - I don't think she's done a fill up since then! Trouble is she forgets to tell me when it needs fuelling!
