General poss new coupe20v turbo

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General poss new coupe20v turbo

Well done good choice, major things to check are:
  • Service history (cambelt is a must)
  • red key is with car
  • after a run with using turbo is there any smoke from exhaust while stopped on tickover - very common (turbo seals)
  • The manifolds quite often crack and then welded to fix them
Main thing is when the cambelt was last changed because if it goes you need a new engine ( just check ebay for the amount of Coupes for sale as spares or repair) plus it is not a cheap thing to get changed either.

Red key i don't think is as important as people make out, as i have had 8 Fiats and have never needed one.

So can you use the above to bargain

Mine was £995 with high milage no red key and no history but had the belt changed 20,000 miles ago

Hope this helps
 
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currently own a bravo hgt and considering a coupe 20v turbo on an r plate wondering if anyone can help on the pros and cons and any weak points they may have and what to look out for

cheers

As Gary says.

I went from a N/A to a turbo. cambelts etc are same as the what you are used to with yours. The reason service history is a must is because the turbo itself puts more strain on the engine and drive system. A turbo 20v has 70 odd bhp more than the N/A and has far more torque so components such as front brakes, drive train are more sophisticated and uprated.
On top of a N/A 20v maintainance You then have additional items to maintain The turbo and its components, oil cooler, intercooler and pipes etc.

As with any car poor maintainance etc will result in poor condition. because of the turbo and its additional components the turbo engine is far more voulnerable than the N/A if abused/ neglected. for example if it has not been warmed up and cooled down before being thrashed or had the oil regularly changed then the turbo itself could suffer etc.

If maintained the turbo is quite reliable, it needs servicing regularly treating like a baby and servicing with quality components. It is usually when modding begins that they need more attention, however this is always a good time to upgrade components. They are economical (for a 155mph car) as good as a N/A if not better and can be used as a daily run around. Its often easy to forget what they are capable of.

In short buy the best example one you can find.
 
are the turbo seals expensive to be replaced? and is it a fairly straight forward diy job?

i have a possible oppurtunity of 2 coupes, one is a 20v n/a, one is a 20v turbo, on which the turbos seals have gone.

I'm leaning towards the n/a if i get one because that one's problems seem limited to the airbag light and non canceling indicators. the turbo is a bit rougher round the edges, but tempting.....

the turbo is cheaper to buy, and has had a recent engine rebuild by fiat apparently, but the insurance would be horrific for me! :eek:, but if the seals were cheap, i would consider it tbh
 
are the turbo seals expensive to be replaced? and is it a fairly straight forward diy job?

i have a possible oppurtunity of 2 coupes, one is a 20v n/a, one is a 20v turbo, on which the turbos seals have gone.

I'm leaning towards the n/a if i get one because that one's problems seem limited to the airbag light and non canceling indicators. the turbo is a bit rougher round the edges, but tempting.....

the turbo is cheaper to buy, and has had a recent engine rebuild by fiat apparently, but the insurance would be horrific for me! :eek:, but if the seals were cheap, i would consider it tbh


Unfortunately you can't service the turbo's yourself because the shafts need balancing otherwise it will smash itself to bits. Think a turbo recondition is around £250
 
yeah, i was thinking along the lines of it being either a new turbo or recon job tbh :( i think the n/a would be the better value option once all things were taken into account :) its in better condition than the turbo, similar mileage, but with the turbo job needing done and extra insurance costs, the turbo would work out more expensive. well thats the potential target sorted anway ;) the n/a it is :)
 
yeah, i was thinking along the lines of it being either a new turbo or recon job tbh :( i think the n/a would be the better value option once all things were taken into account :) its in better condition than the turbo, similar mileage, but with the turbo job needing done and extra insurance costs, the turbo would work out more expensive. well thats the potential target sorted anway ;) the n/a it is :)


The N/A 20v is often overlooked, in terms of performance it is still as fast as most hot hatches of its time including a Bravo HGT. It has 0-60 in 8.5 although mine felt quicker, and 132mph top speed.
I had my HGT first and felt the styling/type of the car did not do the amazing engine noise justice. Possibly because my mk 1 HGT is so nasty on the cloth interior.
The coupe just looks like a sports car and sounds like one. It just feels very special to sit in and you feel as though you are driving something totally special that does not follow mass car design like most of the other cars on the road.
I loved my 20v coupe which I bought as a damage repairable with no paper work. I'm pretty good at looking at cars and on inspection could see it had been loved. I did the cambelt myself and other than a clutch the car never gave me any trouble.

Saying that I do love the turbo it is awesome, but only better in terms of outright performance.
 
Have a look over on FCCUK, there are comprehensive buyers guides on there.

You need to be very careful buying these cars as its easy to end up with one that will cost a fair bit to put right.

My one was the best conditioned one I could find, but has still cost a fair bit for things like a clutch, cambelt, wishbones etc.

A R plate Coupe is likely to need a clutch sooner rather than later if it hasn't been done. It costs around £500-£600 at a specialist.
 
I have just bought one and the injector system light was on when i got it and have never owned one before i thought it was the windscreen wash light!! after filling the windscreen wash the light never went so it turns out after a diagnostic one of the injector cylinders have failed and is gonna cost arond 300 to fix it. So just make sure you know defo what the warning light is before getting it!!
I am quite lucky tho in the fact that i bought it from a garage and he had put it through the mot the day i bought it and it shouldnt have passed as the emissions would have been to high so hopefully i will get refund on the cost of the repairs.
 
I have just bought one and the injector system light was on when i got it and have never owned one before i thought it was the windscreen wash light!! after filling the windscreen wash the light never went so it turns out after a diagnostic one of the injector cylinders have failed and is gonna cost arond 300 to fix it. So just make sure you know defo what the warning light is before getting it!!
I am quite lucky tho in the fact that i bought it from a garage and he had put it through the mot the day i bought it and it shouldnt have passed as the emissions would have been to high so hopefully i will get refund on the cost of the repairs.

The injectors are easy to replace on the 20V cars as they are on top of the inlet manifold.

I am sure you can get them for around £80 if you shop around. Try Alternative Autos

£300 is a rip off IMO
 
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