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is there any way to test relays other than soldering it on pas motor, to see which one is still good?
Technical pas relay test?
- Thread starter flisko
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Technical pas relay test?
I recall one member here sticking the meter to the legs and finding one different to the other.
It had stuck closed. Unlikely both go wrong together so a difference makes sense as a diagnostic. I've just ordered a pair for my motor. Getting a C1007.
It had stuck closed. Unlikely both go wrong together so a difference makes sense as a diagnostic. I've just ordered a pair for my motor. Getting a C1007.
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ive put a meter on them (measure ohms)?, new and all old taken from non working pas show same number
I hear that sometimes it's not the relay but the solder joints 'dry' and crack.
Some seem to have fixed it by reflowing the joints.
For what the relays cost I'm replacing and killing two birds..................
Some seem to have fixed it by reflowing the joints.
For what the relays cost I'm replacing and killing two birds..................
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all solders were good, surely there must be some device that can test them
The only way I test relays is to check that the coil input has a resistance and the other pins are open and when current is injected to the coil the other pair close and open again when the coil is de-energised.
I don't know what was fitted originally but I believe that the Tyco V23072C1061A308 or the Yumo 4117-u-Z are equivalents. If the pin diagram is not on the relay case it should be in the manufacturers data sheets.
I don't know what was fitted originally but I believe that the Tyco V23072C1061A308 or the Yumo 4117-u-Z are equivalents. If the pin diagram is not on the relay case it should be in the manufacturers data sheets.
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/226076/MACOM/V23072-C1061-A308.html
From your video you have Tyco V23072C1061A308 which is a form factor U relay so it should operate as follows.
Across 1 and 2 you should have 130ohms. The relay must click with 6.9V applied to 1 and 2 and must not release till only 1.2V is on 1 and 2
4 is the common power connector. 5 and 7 are only connected to 4 when voltage is applied to 1 and 2. (5 and 7 are connected together when 4 is connected to 5 and 7)
When 4 is connected to 5 you should be able to operate a 6 amp load which would be what you would get with 12volts and a 72W bulb - fairly juicy. Same for 4 connected to 7.
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edit:
pic below are old relays
some "bad" ones got around 120, while other got 129, 130 ohms
new relays got 122 and 124 ohms
so i dont think these ohm readings mean anything as new relays got less ohms than new, unless relays with less ohms are good ones?
pic below are old relays
some "bad" ones got around 120, while other got 129, 130 ohms
new relays got 122 and 124 ohms
so i dont think these ohm readings mean anything as new relays got less ohms than new, unless relays with less ohms are good ones?
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These figures are the coil resistance They can vary by +- 10% for the same make, and +_20% between makes. Anything around 125 ohms is OK, a coil failure would be much higher, thousads of ohms. For heavy loads like motors it is typically the contacts that fail. To check these without special equipment you can use a battery, headlamp bulb and a multimeter. Wire the relay so the headlamp bulb (55W) is switched on by the contacts when the coil is powered and measure the voltage across the contacts, with the lamp off you will get full battery voltage, about 12V. with the lamp on you will get a voltage proportional to the contact resistance. The current will be about 4.5 A and we want to see a resistance of less than 0.1 ohm so with the lamp on you should see less than 0.5V across the contacts. Put the voltmeter probes on the relay terminals, not the wiring.
Robert G8RPI.
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:yeahthat:
Connect 1 and 5 to battery +, lamp (55W headlamp bulb) to 7 and battery -
when you connect 2 to ground the lamp should come on. Measure the voltage across 5 and 7. This should be less than half a volt with a good relay.
Robert G8RPI.
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to which relay pin do i put battery + and - and lamp + and - ?
1 and 7? relay only got 5 pins
1 and 7? relay only got 5 pins
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Hi,
The pins are numbered as if there was a full set for that style of relay. This is why you have 5 pins numbered up to 7. the bulb negative goes to battery negative. Battery positive goes to pin 1 (coil) and 5 (contact). The bulb "positive" goes to pin 7. The bulb will come on when you connect pin 2 to battery neagative. Measure the voltage between pins 5 and 7 with the lamp on. it should be less thn 0.5V (lower is better).
The -308 relay is form "UX" contact arangement. see
http://www.te.com/content/dam/te-com/documents/automotive/global/ENG_DS_V23072-X0000-A001_0914_072_0914%20Mini%20Relay%20K.pdf
for connection details.
To be honest, the relays are so low cost, but hard to access, once you have got to the relays I'd just change them anyway.
Robert G8RPI.
The pins are numbered as if there was a full set for that style of relay. This is why you have 5 pins numbered up to 7. the bulb negative goes to battery negative. Battery positive goes to pin 1 (coil) and 5 (contact). The bulb "positive" goes to pin 7. The bulb will come on when you connect pin 2 to battery neagative. Measure the voltage between pins 5 and 7 with the lamp on. it should be less thn 0.5V (lower is better).
The -308 relay is form "UX" contact arangement. see
http://www.te.com/content/dam/te-com/documents/automotive/global/ENG_DS_V23072-X0000-A001_0914_072_0914%20Mini%20Relay%20K.pdf
for connection details.
To be honest, the relays are so low cost, but hard to access, once you have got to the relays I'd just change them anyway.
Robert G8RPI.
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cant see any number on them
Look at the bottom of the relay and arrange it so on the left you have the three pins nearest one side and then you have 2 other pins a bit away from the opposite side-
On the left you have 2 at the top then 4 in the middle and 1 at the bottom.
On the right you have 7 at the top and 5 at the bottom.
On your video when it starts you can see that 4 5 and 7 have large blobs of solder on the circuit board. 4 is the big blob between the two small blobs which are one and two. 5 and 7 are near the camera.
1 and 2 are the coil. 12volts on them makes the relay turn on - click
4 5 and 7 are the power connections.
When relay off then 4 5 and 7 should be not connected. So high ohms between 4 and 5 and high ohms between 4 and 7 and high ohms between 5 and 7
When relay on then 4 5 and 7 should all be connected together. make sure a large load like a 55w bulb connected to the battery switches on and off when switched by 4 and 5 and you turn the relay on and off. and then test separately again between 4 and 7. 5 and 7 should also switch the bulb on and off.
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Any luck swapping in the new relays yet ? Mine are due in the post tomorrow and the soldering iron has decided to pack up 
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yea i soldered a few of them, and they appear to work normally
Any luck swapping in the new relays yet ? Mine are due in the post tomorrow and the soldering iron has decided to pack up
Cracking soldering iron in Lidl today for €9.99, I got it for plastic welding, variable temperature control as well.
Thanks. What wattage ?
Never mind. Found it on their site. Said it to the better half this morning but she said they would be a once in a blue moon thing
Never mind. Found it on their site. Said it to the better half this morning but she said they would be a once in a blue moon thing
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