Technical Panda Cross//4x4 rear caliper carrier bolt size

[mikerf]

As per the title can anyone advise the size of the bolts that hold the caliper carrier frame to the rear hub. These are the ones with the 8mm hex head. Not the Torx ones that hold the hub to the trailing arm.

I'm doing the rear brake disks on my cross and these bolts are a little chewed up. When I eventually get them out, I'd like to replace with new. Possibly M6 or M5 but I don't know the length.

Thank you.

 

[Pedigrine]

Just measured one 10mm fine thread x 23mm long cap head.Very tight,I had to use heat on mine.

 

[Pedigrine]

 

[mikerf]

Thank you. Just what I need. Very tight is one description. I'd use too f*cking tight! I've manage one side but the drivers side is impossible to shift. I'm now thinking of cutting off a chunk of the old disk to allow me to apply heat to the other side of the bolt or, in a worst case scenario , using a stud extractor. I'm using Yellowcar's method of removing the caliper carrier but access to these bolts is just so damn difficult.

 

[Panda IIs]

Thank you. Just what I need. Very tight is one description. I'd use too f*cking tight! I've manage one side but the drivers side is impossible to shift. I'm now thinking of cutting off a chunk of the old disk to allow me to apply heat to the other side of the bolt or, in a worst case scenario , using a stud extractor. I'm using Yellowcar's method of removing the caliper carrier but access to these bolts is just so damn difficult.

Not tight per se; they just use thread lock since it would be awkward if they rattle loose. See the "pretty" colours on the thread in the picture.

A good fitting hex socket and long bar should do it - I guess the professionals would use an impact tool?

 

[mikerf]

Not much chance of them falling out due to the stupid design where they're trapped my the trailing arm but I know what you mean. First time I did the rear brake disks they came out reasonably well and the passenger side did this time too. Guess the drivers side gets more exposure to dirt and water 'cos they seem to be rusted in solid.

Mind, on the passenger side, it's easier to apply more force because the hub is moving downward and I put a jack under the caliper carrier to stop the hub rotating while I applied pressure to the bolt. On the drivers side, the force is going upward and it's much harder to hold the carrier in a position to allow access to the bolt head AND keep it stable while you apply pressure.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

When mine need replacement (which, given the first pads are still only 50% worn at 36,000 miles will be a while off), I’ll be going to The Fiat Workshop, Royston, as they quote £160-ish to replace the rear discs and pads, all in. That suggests that they have a knack to do this job quickly.

 

[mikerf]

Sadly I'm a very long way from Royston and I suspect that price might not apply to 4x4 and Cross versions. Dealers time the job at 5 hours (less parts)so unless they're charging out £32.00/hr including parts there's something very strange about that price. Don't know what the rear disks on a standard 2wd Panda are like, though so can't comment on how good/bad £160ish is.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Sadly I'm a very long way from Royston and I suspect that price might not apply to 4x4 and Cross versions. Dealers time the job at 5 hours (less parts)so unless they're charging out £32.00/hr including parts there's something very strange about that price. Don't know what the rear disks on a standard 2wd Panda are like, though so can't comment on how good/bad £160ish is.

That price *only* applies to the 4x4/Cross version, as other Pandas have rear drum brakes. They quote £220 for the fronts, which makes me wonder if the rear price is based on tbe previous 169 4x4 model, where discs at both ends of the car were a doddle to do (I did my own on that 2005 car - front or rear about an hour all in). Thankfully, although my front discs (on 2013 car) needed changing with each pad set (at about 30,000 miles each time), when the rears were worn enough to replace the pads (at over 40,000 miles) the discs were still well within spec so I didn’t need to do them. Current 2018 car still has loads of life left in pads and discs.

Here’s the link (I spot they’ve raised their prices a little since I last looked - now £175) https://www.fiatworkshop.co.uk/fiat_Panda_fixed_price_servicing.shtml

 

[mikerf]

I suspect that may well be the case. I've just done the fronts and it takes a fraction of the time it takes to do the rears. Charging £220 for the fronts and £160 for the rears on the current model 4x4 and Cross defies logic. If it were the 169, the cost differential could just be down to the front parts being pricier than the rears.

 

[Panda IIs]

I suspect that may well be the case. I've just done the fronts and it takes a fraction of the time it takes to do the rears. Charging £220 for the fronts and £160 for the rears on the current model 4x4 and Cross defies logic. If it were the 169, the cost differential could just be down to the front parts being pricier than the rears.

I managed to replace my rear discs on 4x4 TA on the drive with a trolly jack and axle stand, both sides in a gentle 4hour morning. It is a pain in the ass but just needs to be approached at a steady pace. From memory I don't think the hub should be rotating when you are loosening the calliper bracket bolt (you mention this above) I did support the trailing arm with a jack which maybe what you are referring to? There is no need to loosen the hub itself, I did see a reference that suggests that you only need to remove the bottom carrier bolt and rotate the carrier to get the disc out. I'm not sure about that and it does still require the upper bolt be loosened to rotate the carrier... Removing the bottom bolt from the shock did free up some "spanner" space.

 

[mikerf]

Are you referring to a 2012+ car? I believe (though not 100% certain) that the method of mounting the rear calipers changed with the III. To access the caliper carrier bolts on the 2012 onward 4x4 & Cross, you have to remove the 4 bolts holding the hub to the trailing arm (a major task in it's own right) and rotate the hub so that each of the caliper carrier retaining bolts are exposed in turn at an indentation in the trailing arm. There is no way of accessing these bolts without doing either the above or removing the hub entirely. The trailing arm just doesn't allow access to the bolts. It's the worlds stupidest way of holding a caliper in position.

 

[Panda IIs]

Are you referring to a 2012+ car? I believe (though not 100% certain) that the method of mounting the rear calipers changed with the III. To access the caliper carrier bolts on the 2012 onward 4x4 & Cross, you have to remove the 4 bolts holding the hub to the trailing arm (a major task in it's own right) and rotate the hub so that each of the caliper carrier retaining bolts are exposed in turn at an indentation in the trailing arm. There is no way of accessing these bolts without doing either the above or removing the hub entirely. The trailing arm just doesn't allow access to the bolts. It's the worlds stupidest way of holding a caliper in position.

Oh yes 63' TA (312) maybe I am just not remembering correctly; I know it's a pain and have probably just blocked from memory!

Edit; yes you are right the hub requires those inside out Torx tools. I think I used wheel bolts in the hub and a piece of timber to prevent rotation. Anyways, it's a very satisfying job when done. Take the trouble to lube up the handbrake mechanism and cable too, its hard to know what had the greater effect the new discs/pads or the lubrication but the handbrake performance is subsequently much better.

 

[scott73]

I know this is old thread but need to replace my bolts but cant find any that are 27mm long, can anyone else confirm what size they are or a link to some. Thanks

 

[Eltezz]

Fiat part number is 46417117. You can find them in various places on the net but here is a link to Shop4Parts:

Caliper bolts